What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Just truck stuff at the horse rescue where I volunteer...

 

Only picture I got of it but it spent the day hauling a rototiller, concrete blocks, and dirt to build this.

 

I did the zip tie fix for the Ridgid fog lights, LED bulb swap for the interior and license plate, installed my Blackvue dash cam and used the bracket for the rear camera from thedashcamstore.com, and installed my phone mount.

 

Used the truck to run to the hardware store, saw this out in the wild on the way there

 

No, was i supposed to? I ordered this kit

$80 Genuine 04152-YZZA4 oil filter with Genuine 15620-31060/A4 Oil Filter Housing Cap and 15643-31050 Cap Plug includes APSG Wrench and crush washer.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2FJFHKB

 

You are fine. The kit you used already had the tube and spring.

 

I'll get it dialed in. Just trying to figure this out...

Before I installed Eibach Pro 2R shocks and RAS, my stock, center of hub to fender, measurements were:
(in a flat parking lot, ~3/4 tank, ~600 lbs, in bed)
LF = 20.84"
RF = 21.28"
RR = 22.59"
LR = 22.34"

After installation:
(Eibachs @ out-of-package settings, RAS adjusted using white spacer, in a flat parking lot, ~5/8 tank, ~600 lbs, in bed)
LF = 22.72"
RF = 23.22"
RR = 23.47"
LR = 23.34"

After first adjustment:
(Added Durobumps, front and rear, which meant I needed to loosen and then re-adjust RAS; still using white spacer. LF Eibach raised 1/8", as measured on the shock. RF Eibach lowered 1/8", as measured on the shock. In a flat parking lot, ~full tank, ~600 lbs, in bed.)
LF = 23.09"
RF = 23.28"
RR = 23.84"
LR = 23.47"

(Front) Driver's side lean: before = 0.44"; after installation = 0.5"; after adjustment = 0.19"

At this point, I'll likely drive a few hundred miles and let all settle in before measuring again, and adjusting again, if necessary.

Pics to come, after I wash the filthy beast.

(Note: my tape measure does not have 100ths of an inch markings. Measurements were taken to the nearest 1/16th inch. However, my rims, both OEM and Fuel - Blitz, measure 21 9/16" in diameter, or 21.5625". I took height measurements from the lowest point of the rim to the bottom of outer fender (w/factory flares), then divided rim diameter by 2, and subtracted that from what I measured.)

 

So, here's something that I"ve always wondered...

We are measuring the center of the hub to the bottom of wheel well in each corner (at least that's how most of us are doing it), and then we'd like to see a 'level' truck so adjustments are made. But, are the discrepancies in the suspension or the cosmetic potions of the body (bed and front quarter panels)??? The reason I'm wondering, is because if the discrepancies are in the body and how it ties in to the frame, are we ending up w/a suspension that's not 'level' to have the appearance of 'level' truck in the area where the measurements are taken??

 

Yes, factory driver spring is longer for reference

 

Gained at least 15HP with some @ToyoMafia goodies today

 

Ticked over 90K miles and toted around the legend today. He went to the groomer if you can’t tell by the entire tufts of hair he’s leaving in the seat.

 

Looks like you could a seat cover

 

I can't get a good guess on how big it is from the picture... is it a terminal post cap from a battery replacement? Not threaded inside I'm guessing. Could have been a cap to some sort of sensor or something that was replaced. I wouldn't be terribly concerned, being I'm a toyota technician. I'd guess it's just a piece of trash

 

Let me give her a bath, and then I'll tell ya.

 

Not threaded inside, just a soft plastic cap of some sorts. I was hoping that it was a cap that was dropped down in there and nothing important. Lol, I was not looking forward to all the stuff it looked like I was going to have to take off to get access in there. A lot more bits and pieces on the 5.7 than my 4.7. Appreciate the reassurance

 

Looks like a cap that would go over a grease fitting.

 

Still waiting on the ol mailman to bring me mine

 

Saw this the other day.

 

The wait is well worth it

 

Good evening everyone!
Started arranging a few things on my molle seat panels. Have a couple of bags I’m going to put on soon and still have to figure out a way to mount a small fire extinguisher. I’m liking it so far.

 

Not a "what I've done to the Tundra" post...but my middle son and I took the truck for a "range day" yesterday to do some plinking. He was all smiles.

 

Doesn’t get much better than that!

 

Almost done with wiring my rear bumper lights. Think I spent more time trying to figure out how to hide and run the wire then installing the lights them selves . Tested the lights with a battery and wiring seems all good. Have a goodnight all

 

Giving this some thought. Maybe so. I know when I jack it up, either from the pumpkin, or from the center of a front cross member, the passenger side tires always clear the concrete first. Even on the alignment rack, raised on a cross member but with the two support points outboard, and close to the frame rails, the passenger tires were higher off the platform than the driver tires. Are our Tundras just heavier on the driver's side, or are our suspensions designed to droop more on this side, or both?

If we tried to level by measuring frame height off the concrete, where, what points on the frame, would we measure?

 

Where did you find the molle panels for the back of the seat?

 

Back from Vegas for the annual offroad trip. Couple busted rear bumpers, and an exploded rotor (not mine). The new Kings are amazing.

 

Obviously not your rotor, that caliper isn't painted

Glad you had a good trip and the new shocks are being a noticeable difference.

 

I got them on Amazon. $30 coupon you can click before adding to cart so makes it a little better.

$130 MAIKER Tactical Rigid Molle Insert Panels for Vehicles Car Seat Back Organizer Rifle Gun Rack Tactical Modular Storage Platform (2pcs, 21.6" H x 13" W)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WHBXCKY

 

Yessir! It was an awesome trip