What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

That looks awesome! What fender flares are those?

 

I believe those are EAG flares.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/looking-for-these-specific-eag-fender-flares.127952/#post-3265956

 

Thanks! Jim nailed it on the flares. He's got a pretty sharp eye.

Good eye Jim. These are the EAG version that was available on ebay for awhile. I think they are pretty difficult to find anymore.

 

Got the @RainMan_PNW switch panel installed. First couple cuts were stressful, but I just slowly whittled it with a dremel for that super tight fit. Now I need to fill it in with locker switches!

 

It just occurred to me that the '21 LR PRO in the Forum Header is another great example. (@RainMan_PNW ) Casey's build thread will convince you to dig out your wallet if you're not careful but he has done some awesome stuff to his rig.

 

Jomax Customs front end links.


Instructions say to set them at 3.5", center to center, as a starting point and adjust from there. I assume the 3.5" is based on stock suspension, but don't know. Since I've a 2" front CO lift, I thought maybe to start longer, so I asked. Jomax responded that my Installer would know what to do. My installer, me, decided to start at 4". Clearance is good, at least a finger width of space around, wheels turned both ways, as well as jacked-up to full droop. Went on a quick drive around the hood and climbed several 8 - 12" curbs, at different approach angles, some faster than others. Not a clunk, squeak, nor grind one. My installer is good with the 4" setting, for now.

Great to have: sway bar to end link bolt can be torqued to spec while installed. No issues getting a 22mm open-end on the nut and a 1/2" drive torque wrench with 12mm hex bit on the bolt, so on Tundra adjustment is doable should it be needed.

 

Wow.

 

Nice install! Curious to see what articulation is like with one of those

 

Thank you! So am I, but I'm not planning to get into a situation where I will find out.

 

Nice. I went to order them a couple months back and they were OOS.

I went with BDS links instead with no regrets - they've got zerks and more height for lifted applications.

 

Amazing. With all the Googling I did I don't think I've seen the BDS before. Love the zerks. I was leery of the Heim joints vs. ball joints. Do you know if they've other lengths for less of a lift, or is the for 4.5 to 7" lifts it?

One thing I did find in my research, is the Heim joints for the Jomax, both ends, are sold at Summit Racing, and at good pricing. So, if I do have a Heim go out, I can replace.

 

This looks fantastic! Are there clear instructions on how to do this to a 1794 somewhere on here? I really want to do this but I'm afraid of screwing up the leather.

 

D6 Boards

 

This is the part number: 55405-0C020-C1 and linked here. Just make sure it's not the part number ending in -B0, as that one is the surround with the silver finish. The rep at Ourisman clarified that with me after he checked my VIN number and I told them that C1 is correct and that I wanted black and I double checked with him just to make sure it included the 4x4 hole. All good there.

Ourisman was the cheapest I was able to find at $201.13, but shipping ended up being an additional $31.46. But they had shipped to me within 4 days or so.

 

@RainMan_PNW gives a super clear template to use, he’s also got an instruction how to post on his profile

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rmf-003-3-switch-panel-universal-or-platinum.139005/

 

Agreed, his cs is top notch as well!

 

I took mine off, I think it looks better that way.

 

The BDS don't, but I came across these that also have zerks. If you want more of the OEM look but have a milder lift, Rough Country has some too.

 

Damn! That’s a bad A$$ looking truck!

 

RC links are good for mild lifts, I run them on my work Tundra on a 3.5”

 

Yeah ppl talk crap about RC stuff but they've gotten better over the years.

 

I came across those too, on Rock Auto. Some reviews I read said they are good a few months post install, but then start "clunking." Too, the zerks are supposedly non-standard, aluminum, and cross-thread easily (they don't come installed) There's YT videos of folks having trouble getting their grease gun fitting on, and one of the links, I think passenger side, has the zerk pointing to the rear, which makes it even more of a pain.

If I hadn't of damaged a grease boot on one of my factory ones when I installed my Eibachs, I wouldn't have been looking. With OEM replacements running $120+/side, I bought a set of Detroit Axle ones off Amazon; same part numbers as the Moog ones, also on Amazon, but half the price. Those turned out to be junk; all supplied nuts had malformed threads and couldn't be used, and I rounded out the 6mm hex socket on the end of the ball-joint pin on one. That's when I decided to cry once and get the Jomax Customs set, which are about the same cost as OEM, but still twice what I paid for the TRD HD Front Stabilizer Bar itself. Time will tell.

Edit: And Charles, thank you for the heads up on BDS. I read their installation instructions, and they give an explanation of how to line up (set the total link length) that Jomax instructions doesn't. I may just adjust my links another 1/8" to 1/4" longer; get the bar to link bolt more perpendicular to the top heim joint.

 

Jomax is good ppl. If anything craps out you can reach out to him and he'll respond.

 

I am in a rental, but saw this beautiful rig while out exploring!

Whoever you are, cool setup!

 

I recommend their shocks and other hard parts for anyone on a budget. But not their bracket lifts, seen far too many fail doing mundane stuff.

 

You don't see a lot of Kimbo Campers out there! I have been in one, they are super roomy.

 

I Cerakoted the original chrome door handles. The black plastic OEM ones started looking like shit after a couple of years.

 

Awesome! Thank you. I like the look of those. Appreciate it. What’s your lift and tire size? Sorry if you posted it before.