What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Had a good friend come up from Vegas to visit so I took the day off yesterday to take him out. First thing was fitting his new wheels and tires. Thanks to @CaptRussia253 for the methods! He’s pumped.

As soon as they were mounted we hit the dirt. He’s on my old mid travel king setup with an icon rxt spring. He went the Baja boss AT in a 35.

https://youtu.be/oflc-dQDMKE

 

Keep an eye on it, mine came into contact with my TRD sway bar and oiled my driveway and the entire underside of the truck, not sure why...Baxter never responded to my emails.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...5-gen-tundra-today.713/page-2461#post-2822951

 

Cleaned/Polished the Chrome Bits with Mother's Chrome Polish...

 

Good to see someone having a love for the chrome!

 

Relocated my rear diff breather. Bought the "kit" from yotashop and probably paid a few bucks extra for the convenience but it was worth it to me.

 

Quick question, any lift or anything else installed? I noticed that my all-aluminum billet Jowett filter housing also comes closer downward near the non-TRD swaybar on my SR5, running the Bilstein 4600's with the OR package presently but plan to go to BIlstein 5100s this summer. I'll be back under there later this week to put a vacuum tip over the drain valve, so I'll look at the clearance then, but would love to know if a lift or anything has any impacts here.

 

No lift, TRD sport suspension, I was also on the stock motor mounts at that point, so no changes from stock.

 

No it's not lol.

 

Damn you for sharing this Rey now I gotta paint my tow hooks white!

 

OMG everyone work on their house or truck need this

 

LOL at least this peer pressure mod is cheap.

 

I think the edge you are seeing is the front skid plate, and the engine skid plate gap. They both mount to the front cross brace and are level to each other. You can adjust it to be as wide or narrow as you like for the most part. the cat plate is farther back and I can’t see if he has it sandwiched or not in the photo.

 

It is the gap between the front plate and the engine skid. I cheated and cut the engine skid so I wouldn't have to completely remove the cat plate. Getting to the nuts on top of the cross member was not fun.... but I came up with the solution....

 

I can appreciate chrome…

…black chrome.

 

Installed HotTails taillight kit. This is the way.

 

Boost 2.0 parts rolling in slowly

 

Tired of my local crappy dealer.

So I decided to do my own oil change and swap out the plastic filter housing for the aluminum one. I figured it was torqued on and I might break it or it might have broken tabs, so I had my new aluminum housing and everything here at the shop to get the job done.

Bought the Motiv X kit from suggestions here and it is nice. Was looking forward to trying it all out.

Now for the good part, I started to remove the oil filter drain plug so I can drain the housing.
Holy s**t, took all I had and when it finally gave the entire housing turned. WTH?

Screwed off the housing and put the plastic housing in the vice and could not get the metal plug off the plastic canister for nothing.
Actually ended up rounding out the square insert and cracking the plastic housing.

Luckily, local crappy dealer had the metal plug in stock so installed it on my new aluminum housing and all is good now.

Long story I know but there's no way that O ring in the plug had ever been replaced. Just another reason that if your able do your maintenance yourself, do it.

Im done with these stealerships.

And im not even going to go into the fiasco I had with the fuel pump recall or a nice tire rotation where I almost lost a wheel.

 

Fun stuff. I've done one oil change since buying mine and I wasn't going to push it in trying to get the bottom part off the housing as I didn't have a replacement on hand. Luckily the housing itself wasn't overtorqued. It was a good thing, considering the stories I've heard. I just didn't have time to get the parts in before it was time to change the oil. Next time I'll have new everything.

 

After three visits to the dealer in three days, they finally ordered the correct driver rear shock to replace the leaking one under my Certified Used warranty.

 

How hard is it to order a rear shock?

 

Evidently "there are like three different shocks we could have ordered, and we ordered based on the VIN and it was the wrong one".
It's a black SR5 monotube. How hard could it be, one wonders.

 

yikes. a 5 second glance at the truck should clear that right up for them. Pretty embarrassing on their part

 

I briefly considered telling them to forget it, but it's free under warranty and I don't want to buy 5100s yet. Soon...

 

I do my oil changes all the time. I purchased the aluminum housing, switched it out but went back to the plastic one. I just feel like it fits better for some reason.

 

Finally got the tow hooks painted.

 

I will be at this event Sunday. If anyone is also interested

 

The gap between the bottom of the filter and the skid plate is minimal and would scare the crap out of me offroad. Plus not being able to drain the oil from the top of the filter will be a mess inside your skid plate when spinning off the filter I would think. Looking forward to your follow up after your next oil change

 

Added a bed extender. I had to modify the bracket and the extender but it works.

 

I just received my 5100's for my rear from Hotshot OffRoad and they had them to me in like, 3 days, it was great. I'll be going back for the fronts when I have the time! I'm going to clearcoat them with Rustoleum enamel and see how long they can look good for me. His price shipped was great though, beat Amazon even.

 

The more I've looked, the more I might lean toward 4600s for daily driver ride quality. I'm getting old and just want a good roadtrip with the camper. I might go "offroad" on gravel trails once or twice a year. I'll have plenty of time to argue with myself up until I decide to order something.