What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

This is the way.

 

Patrick, a couple of times I had my driver's door not respond to the switch but I think it was just because I interrupted the window travel while it was within a couple of inches of bring closed...could have just been a safety feature. Anyway, after watching the video, I'm curious to see what happens if you have one of the kids operate that window from that door only a few times to see if you can duplicate the issue ruling out the switch on the driver's door.

 

What the hell.....

 

What guide did you follow for the light set up. I have the same thing to do with my mirrors. Left it pending since I had to leave to Oklahoma for work.

 

No sound deadener, I was thinking maybe it was getting hung up on the “inline” Weathertechs I have but doesn’t seem to be it…strange for sure!

Thanks Jim!…yea I checked the wiring over pretty good but maybe I’ll go back over it and see if I missed something…in theory it almost has to be something with the wiring I just can’t pinpoint it!

Thank you!…I appreciate it!

Thank you sir!…much appreciated!…and that’s something I didn’t check but a good possibility!…I’m not sure if it’s the same window as the other 2, I’ll reach out to them and ask but I’m definitely going to check the voltage…thanks for the help!

Yea that’s not a bad idea, and when it happens the window won’t work from my master switch or from that door switch either…but as soon as we open that door it’ll work from both switches, it’s insane…thanks for the recommendation!

 

It depends how you want them hooked up. I have seen two methods online: 1. Hooked into the reverse light circuit as detailed on the boost auto parts install video. 2. Hooked to a dedicated switch so they can be controlled when desired.

I chose a third method and hooked mine to the circuit that powers the cargo light. This way these lights come on with the interior lights when I unlock the truck or manually by using the cargo light switch.

First, remove both front sill trim and lower kick plates and then fish the passenger side wire to the driver side. Then disassemble the lower dash to expose the connectors into the driver side fuse panel and module. Note: I had never taken apart my dash so I watched the first part of the dash disassembly (remove kick panel, (2) 10mm bolts, lots of clips) video by @2020Platinum on his you tube channel (thanks Patrick ).

Previously @RainMan_PNW had been kind enough to interpret his selection of wiring diagrams to point out I needed to tap into the wire coming from pin 28 on connector 3K (thanks Casey ). This is the top connector on the main fuse panel/module. I did have to remove some of the wrapping on the harness to access the wire but then made the tap, reassembled the dash, and then cleaned up the wiring running from the passenger side so it would not interfere with pedals, etc.

Next, I reconnected the battery to test function. Everything worked so I reassembled the kick panels/sill plates and cleaned up tools before finally installing my floor mats. I did not take any photos but attaching the diagrams and photos provided to me when I was looking into this solution a month or so ago.

I would suggest you check wiring diagrams to see if your tap location would be the same since your truck is a few years older.

Lastly, @2020Platinum did a video on his install and @RainMan_PNW details his install on his build thread. I suggest reviewing both for some tips if you are going power fold (mine are manual). Feel free to let me know if you have additional questions.

 

Was that original shock ? ... curious how many miles on 'em. Just hit 70k and looking to upgrade all 4 corners.

 

I got the truck used, it was 3 years old and had 30k miles on it. No idea how long those shocks had been installed. I'm approaching 70k as well and will be looking to get the rears done too.

 

Had to go two weeks without tint… felt like a vampire driving around. Also installed the Retrax cover! (Solo… ouch)

 

Hi Kevin, Who did you buy your Retrax thru? What’s your thoughts. I’m leaning towards the same cover.

 

UPDATE to post #56,880

We went to the Bantam Jeep Jamboree last weekend and hit a few easy trails. I ran into problems with the Haltec air chucks. These air chucks connect the deflation/inflation contraption (shown in post #56,880) to the tire valves. Two things were going wrong. The first is that the Haltec air chuck was remaining open when disconnected from the tire’s valve stem. They should close and stop any air from escaping but this wasn’t happening. The second problem is they were popping off the valve stem. I had to position them just right for them to stay connected. My impression is the Haltec air chuck needs deeper threads to bite into. Working with the air chucks got to be frustrating after awhile.

I switched over to AstroAI heavy duty air chucks and will give them a try. After a few tests on the truck the Astro chucks seem pretty solid and easy to use with one hand.

 

Hey Don,
I ordered it through Retrax directly, at the time I couldn’t find any cost savings through other distributors and I got the sense Retrax would hit their estimated shipping time more reliably than AutoAnything (for example). Retrax shipped on the 20th business day— I doubt it has changed since last month, so be prepared to wait.

The cover is fantastic in terms of quality, it rolls smoothly, and seems durable. The rails are going to be very handy for cargo/camping. The hardware locks right into the stock bedrails and the install (aside from lifting it up alone) was very easy. The only negatives are the price, and the minor loss of bed space.

For use cases similar to mine, I recommend it! This style cover allows you to lock it at any position, and (the real winner in my book) have the bed open and the rear window down on a CrewMax. Good luck!

 

Removed stock bedside decals and replaced with matte black ones.

 

I haven’t had the best luck with AstroAI’s chucks either. Let us know if it’s any better though.

 

Will do.

Bummed to read that you’re having problems with the Astro’s.

 

It does ok, but I usually have problems getting it seated on one or two valve stems, and it seems like any movement will loosen it up and leak. I switched to a threaded chuck on my air gauge and using the quick chuck for air downs now.

 

I hear ya ref “any movement will loosen it up and leak.” PITA.

Which threaded chuck are you using?

 

It must have been one that came with the AstroAI gauge, because I can’t remember where else I would have bought it from. I found the listing on Amazon and that’s probably it:

It came with the quick chuck installed and I guess I threw the threaded one in my truck without thinking about it. I swapped them after my last off road trip when I couldn’t keep the quick chuck in place while airing back up at the house.

 

Ah, ok. I see what you’re talking about. Thnx for the details.

 

Hey Kevin, I was looking over there web site. It looks like your went with the matte finish cover? Watching there video the matte looks better than the gloss finish. Just my opinion. Which one did you go with. Also standard or Pro? Thanks Don.

 

I have this AstroAI guage and it's so nice having a digital read out. The only thing that confuses me is that it shows different values when I'm pumping air in vs when I stop.

 

While you are pumping you do not get an accurate reading since it is influenced by the pressure in the line which is higher than the pressure in the tire (that's how you get airflow into the tire.) To get an accurate pressure reading of the tire pressure alone you must stop filling or the line pressure must match the final tire pressure (which will result in slow fill.)

 

Looks good

 

I use to love doing that. Someone complains their car won't start, I tell them give me a hammer and I'll get it on. Told a friend of mine to try it on his Tahoe and he didn't realize you only need a small tap and he whacked the shit out of it and snapped one of the mounting bolts. They were probably on the way out anyways if that's all it took, or he is a lot stronger then I thought.

 

I went with the matte finish, I believe it’s the “pro” it’s aluminum and the slats are a little thicker. I just went out and grabbed some pics that I don’t think they’d show online in case they’re helpful. It’s not 100% water tight, not a big deal for me but maybe something you are weighing, there’s a gap in the tailgate so while the cover keeps water out (you can see my fingers on the other side), water will find a way in… you can also see how easily it attaches to the truck with the provided hardware. Most of the install time was getting it lined up *just right* — with a buddy and a place to store it— you could remove this in under 5 minutes. And finally, you can see there’s a good amount of room under the can if you were picking up a few sheets of plywood for example

 

Went from 20s to 18s on 37s

 

installed Baja designs s8 light on prinsu roof rack..these things kick ass

 

Finished a few of the obligatory new owner "mods".

Grill emblem


Grab Handle


Console organiser


Blinded by reflections too often so have the dash chrome delete kit ordered. Will do that next, or possibly the wireless charger and USB ports for the kids behind the center console.

 

Put TRD cold air intake on last weekend and finally installed my Borla cat back exhaust today. But the big one is that I paid it off 2 weeks ago! More parts money!