What has been done to your Tundra (22+) under warranty??

Thanks for reporting on your oil and voltmeter gauges. Looks like there is some consistency with these two outputs. Given that these are digital and rely on software unlike analog style, the programing of the computer and sensors have to be factored in to what is displayed on the dash screen. I guessing Toyota recently sent out an “over the air” update to all the Tundras with digital dash displays. I am very observant of my oil, voltage, and temperature gauges and had never seen these readings for the last year of owning/driving this truck. From the observation of the voltage climbing and falling due to throttle position is the weirdest thing I have seen on any vehicle I have ever owned. I also checked to see if this behavior works the same when using cruise control, it does. Once you cancel the cruise control using the button on the steering wheel and the vehicle decelerates, the voltage climbs up until you come to a slow speed or stop the vehicle. The voltage remains constant if you raise or lower the cruise speed knob, just like you would do if you are lightly pushing down or easing up on the accelerator pedal. The computer must also be looking at speed, because as I come to a dead stop, the voltage that was super high starts to drop as I slow down to a stop. So if you think about it, people driving in a lot of traffic will have their alternator charging the battery up and down a lot as they travel from light to light. Where a good majority of the travel that I do is on the highway at cruising speeds with minimal changes in speed from letting up completely off the accelerator pedal. Not sure what is best for our 12 volt batteries, a lot of charging cycles or less charging cycles.

“When you hit the gas the voltage on the guage drops to maybe 12 or so.”
Since our model trims are all digital, why not display the actual readings in a numerical format? Like you, I have no idea what my actual oil pressure and voltage readings are at unless I put a voltmeter or oil gauge on it. At least Toyota could give us the option to see that instead of a basic bar.

Just wish that Toyota would alert their customers that they have made “over the air” updates, so we are not surprised when something is different in the behavior of our vehicles. Give us an update log screen to see all the updates installed by dealer or ones that are pushed down. Used to be that when you took your vehicle in for service, they would tell you if you needed an update to computer programing. Guess those days are gone……

 

Interesting, I hadn't thought of that; I wondered why my big screen panel ask me for my PIN the other day, possibly it was updated and rebooted.

 

FWIW I average about 13 PSI oil pressure at idle with the engine operating at temp (~190-210*F oil temp) while cold start temps are much higher at around 50-75 psi depending on just how cold it is outside.

Now I don't have the digital cluster but with the analog gauge reads just below the 1/4 hatch mark when running at ~13 psi and at, or just above the 3/4 hatch mark during most start up conditions.

I have a ScanGaugeIII that I use to monitor the different engine and transmission sensors while towing. So far it works really well.

 

13 PSI i'd consider low.... But thats my opinion as somone you dont know. LOL As engines age their oil pressure drops too.

I'm still working on getting my OBDLinkMX+ to read toyota data correctly. I can get temps but not pressure as pressure is a non standard OBD info (according their support)

Cant say I can recommend this particular bluetooth diagnostic tool as its been lacking current updates. Ugh.

Anyway, low oil pressure and low viscocity oil (0w20 is recommended) doesnt sound like a long healthy environmwnr for a turbo motor.
As the oil is used its viscocity can drop. When I did my first oil change at 9xx miles the oil came out like water.
5w30 synthetic might help a bit with the oil pressure.

 

You came on here to contribute this

 

I was a little shocked when I first saw the idle pressure, but it tends to stick around 13-15psi at idle, once warmed. Maybe someone around here has access to a FSM. There would likely be an oil pressure specification for engine idle speed.

 

Few issues on the '22 Tundra SR5 here as well.

When the truck had 2500 miles, I had a fuel indicator issue. At random, the "Distance to Empty" would reset itself back to max miles (Anything between 520-540) from my actual distance. *Still waiting on the fix from Toyota*

At 12000 Miles, the touchscreen failed as well. At first, the screen went black for my whole drive home & then the issue continued with the touchscreen buttons totally vanishing the week after. The dealership replaced it today (4/14/23) after their technician stated the touchscreen was defective from the factory.

The transmission has some issues as well when shifting into Drive. This issue also started at ~12500 miles. The truck seems to lunge upwards at the front / moves back like someone pushed it hard. Dealership says that the transmission would have some error code if anything is wrong. But I would love to hear everyone's thoughts on this issue.

 

There was a transmission thing for the clunking, @ryanwgregg has it posted on his TSB thread. I bet that would fix it. My transmission has been ultra smooth since they did it to mine.

 

I noticed the hard shifting into drive after starting the engine. It seems that the RPM sit around 1,300 for a bit and start to drop to about 700. Then I shift into drive and it is not bad at all. If I don't wait for the RPM to come down, I get the lunge.

 

Update on more work.

~15000 miles. I had the dealership swap the rubber seal around the driver's rear window. It was peeling off.

Another issue at 17200ish miles. Faulty sensor causing LTA malfunction.

Can't wait for 20000 miles haha.

 

I should start considering the extended warranty before mine expires down the road lol…

 

I had some minor glitch with the hybrid system, warning popped up, went to the dealer, they reset it and said somepart needed replacing. Truck ran 100%, went in had the part replaced, and kept running 100% I almost questioned taking it in because it was running so well

 

I bought my truck, I went for the extended warranty when I purchased it. I dont mind wrenching on cars but this thing is a another level.

 

I came with the knowledge on the 2nd generation Tundras being tanks in terms of reliability. When this generation launched and had the turbos failing right off the bat & then just hearing about the plastic underneath the driver's seat cracking at random. I knew from that moment that the smartest choice I would make while buying my '22 was getting the longest warranty which ended up being 10 years/125,000 miles. I don't regret that choice one bit.

 

Purchase 11/22. 2023 1794
Clunk and hesitation TSB
Harsh ride TSB
They attempted to do blank recall but couldn’t get software to load. I have to go back for that

 

New model issues are a problem. We are all the guinea pigs for Toyota.

How quickly Toyota pivots and creates a production fix or tsb is whats important. So far.... so good.

Perfect... no. Sadly with other brands.... They have more stories, perhaps because they sell more or maybe they have more issues.
Thinking about it I have a friend that had a f150 since day one. (ever hear a story that starts with that?)

After a year or so he had issues. The truck was in the shop for months with electrical gemlins.
Cylinder 1 misfire etc. Goes into limp mode etc. One thing that he realized that he didnt want the f150 no more.
Replacement time came and he got a Ford Exploder instead. He's enjoyed it so much that when the lease ended he bought it.
Maybe he got a lemony f150 that was assembled the day after new years?

What I dont hear so far is toyota folk having same experience. well nobody I know personally at least.

I did go for the extended warranty 10 years / 125k too
Nice to have but never want to use.