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What battery running for upgraded audio systems?

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by RVR UBER, Feb 20, 2020.

  1. Feb 20, 2020 at 1:50 PM
    #1
    RVR UBER

    RVR UBER [OP] New Member

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    Running a couple amps and upgraded speakers and subs. What battery does one suggest for upgraded systems? Stock battery work, or what's the consensus out there. I am not a audio guru and looking for some suggestions.

    Thanks
     
  2. Feb 20, 2020 at 1:53 PM
    #2
    anthonygan

    anthonygan New Member

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    I’ve been running a stock battery, but I’ll upgrade it once it dies! The total amp wattage from my amps is drawing around 1200 watts!
     
    RVR UBER [OP] likes this.
  3. Feb 20, 2020 at 2:11 PM
    #3
    acmesupply

    acmesupply New Member

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  4. Feb 20, 2020 at 2:23 PM
    #4
    vegas4x4

    vegas4x4 Blaaack

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    I still got the stock battery. Im gonna upgrade once it gives out. Im running around 1400watts rms so im curious what battery others are using. I used stinger and kinetiks previously with good results, pricey though
     
  5. Feb 20, 2020 at 4:07 PM
    #5
    _SP_

    _SP_ New Member

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    Interstate for me. I like to get good quality stuff. But if it aint broke dont fix it. Unless you had one of them leaky batterys toyota used back in 08. Lots of people had acid leaking from the caps up top. It was really common and annoying to have happen on a new truck with 30,000 miles on it.
     
    RVR UBER [OP] likes this.
  6. Feb 29, 2020 at 6:26 AM
    #6
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler ASCM#3 Desert Dweller

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    this one right here.
     
  7. Mar 1, 2020 at 4:54 AM
    #7
    Twinky

    Twinky Keep the shinny side up!

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    A typical battery of the correct size for the tundra will work pretty well for a system around 1200 watts, give or take a few hundred.

    Main thing though, remember to check its manufacture's date. If the sales person brings you a battery and the date shows its been sitting on the self for 6 plus months then tell them to find a newer one. Especially if its a standard flooded cell battery.

    Here's a seriously impressive vid of a Northstar and an xs power getting load tested on huge current draws.

    Pretty crazy.
     
  8. Mar 1, 2020 at 11:59 PM
    #8
    Electonicsfanatic

    Electonicsfanatic New Member

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    Yeah I used to run all Optima Yellow tops but, my battery guy Charlie recommended the X2. Optima is made in Mexico and has issues now and the Tundra has battery terminals on different sides. I’ve had mine the past 35,000 miles or two years no issues. They are marine rated and offer 840 CCAs. It’s AGM and should easily allow you to run a decent wattage system. I do like XS but, they swell up under the hood and the terminals were an issue. I’ve seem people compete with Northstar.

    9934A92F-45B3-4A6C-8BF9-3DC50D3517CE.jpg
     

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    Luckydog and Bigbird57 like this.
  9. Mar 2, 2020 at 4:33 AM
    #9
    azTony

    azTony New Member

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    How did you get the 20% off for online ordering and the 30 dollar rebate? All I am seeing is the $10 off for online ordering.
     
  10. Mar 2, 2020 at 4:43 AM
    #10
    BigRedFireEngine

    BigRedFireEngine New Member

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    I'm going with Northstar myself. Being in Toronto area, it has slightly higher cold cranking amps than Odyssey. But either would be a good choice depending on the deal you can get.
     
  11. Mar 2, 2020 at 6:23 AM
    #11
    Hammerdog

    Hammerdog YCMTSUP

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    That’s all I see also..
     
  12. Mar 2, 2020 at 7:38 AM
    #12
    Danimal86

    Danimal86 What's a Dickfir?

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  13. Mar 22, 2020 at 7:24 PM
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    MJoeP

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  14. Mar 24, 2020 at 8:43 AM
    #14
    Toyotoholic

    Toyotoholic -4Life-

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    Northstar 27f

    Spec sheet Watts are not a true gauge of what the electrical system sees as a load. The amperes of draw are more accurate for calculation. There are different classes of amplification A,AB, D, hybrid, etc and they have various levels of operational efficiency. This means you are not getting what you think you are, as far as Watts. So, as a rule of thumb, take your amps main fuse rating as a reference for maximum draw, say an 80a fuse, subtract that from your alternators output (175a) this means you have 95a left for the entire truck at full load. The battery has a reserve and acts as a power capacitor for the alternator during peak draws. What I'm saying is if you have "2000 Watts of power" like some people say, then they would be drawing over 150a and there would be almost nothing left 175a-150a=25a) to run the truck from the alternator,. This means it will be using the battery's power reserve for normal functions... Not good. When you do a audio system check your alternator's output to know exactly what you have as a finite starting number for amperes. The largest possible battery with the highest Ampere reserve, is the best choice. In our truck the Northstar fits the needs and demands of abuse.
    And higher efficiency amps will use less power for the same output.
     
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