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Welded nut inside of frame for front sway bar broke loose.

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Teriks, Sep 11, 2017.

  1. Sep 11, 2017 at 1:28 PM
    #1
    Teriks

    Teriks [OP] New Member

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    I found out today why one bolt from each side of the front sway bar bushing mounts weren't tightening all the way when I last took them off -- the welded nut inside of the frame broke off on each side! The forward-most bolt/welded nut is fine, but the rear-most nut is screwed. I see there is a small 1" by 1/2" "window" on each side of the frame, but it doesn't look like there's enough clearance to get to either of the welded nuts inside the frame.

    I tried backing the bolts out while using a couple different tools to push down while backing out, and that didn't work. Does anyone have any ideas on how the heck to get these bolts out, and how I would ever get them (or new ones) back in and secured?

    This picture isn't mine, but it shows (kinda) what I am talking about: It's one of the bolts that holds the front sway bar to the frame via the bushing mount.

    zz.jpg
     
  2. Sep 11, 2017 at 3:20 PM
    #2
    Tundraplatinum

    Tundraplatinum New Member

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    this is something I run into at work all the time on all types of vehicles I work in a shop in ohio so plenty of rust. what happens is the nut is usually in a bracket that's welded to the inside of the frame the nut then floats in the bracket to allow a little movement so things line up properly nut us normally a square shaped nut. the nut and bolt rust together and nut turns in bracket bending it. there is a couple of ways to solve the problem sometimes you can use an existing hole in the frame to use a torch heat up nut red hot then remove bolt once it is out clean up threads on bolt anti seize and sometimes they will tighten up. if that doesn't work you can use an existing hole to stick a mig welder in and tack weld the nut to the bracket. if there aren't any holes in the frame that allow you enough access then your going to have to make a hole and us one of he 2 methods. I usually cut a square hole with cut off wheel and then weld the piece back in and paint. it sucks but hopefully this helps you.
     
    equin and Teriks [OP] like this.
  3. Sep 11, 2017 at 6:50 PM
    #3
    CM-LENNY

    CM-LENNY No Complaints

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    The access port is a good idea, you may want to use a 1-1/2" or so hole saw and drill yourself an access port from the outside area of the frame. Then get a weld nut or flange nut and weld in place. Use the plug from the hole saw and have a welder weld back in place. Caution, this is a very fine thread metric bolt. Off memory, 18mmx1.25 pitch ? Just make sure you get the correct nut to weld in. Also if you go this route, remove the sway bar altogether, use just the metal sway bracket as a jig to weld you new nut in place. Sounds easy huh :thumbsup: If you go the hole saw route, ease in carefully as to not break the pilot bit off on the existing bolt.
     
    equin likes this.
  4. Sep 11, 2017 at 8:39 PM
    #4
    duece292

    duece292 Appalachian American

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    Do a Google search for RIVNUT. Much easier than trying to re-weld a nut back in there and the correct size is just as secure.
     
  5. May 30, 2018 at 6:21 AM
    #5
    trd716

    trd716 New Member

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    trd catt back/ bilstein leveling 5100's trd, rear sway bar , trd front sway bar
    so how did you fix your issue ?? I have the same one at the moment
     
  6. May 30, 2018 at 7:43 AM
    #6
    ZPMAN

    ZPMAN 2nd place is the 1st looser

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    Rivnut is a good idea and i do belive they make one large enough for your size but i belive you will need the installation tool that looks like a oversized rivit tool , i use rivnuts quite often they are great for sheet metal and you just use a extended bolt and a spacer to crush the backside of the nut.
    20180530_090643.jpg
    Myself i most likely would burn or cut off the bolt head then with a jack if needed remove the exsisting nut. Next i would try to fish a bolt or nut with a firm wire (your choice) through the front of the frame horn. On that nut or bolt you can weld a plate or another bolt to it so no wrench is needed to tighten up. If it's not reachable then i would be thinking about cutting the frame.As for anti-seize i dont use it anymore especially on lugnuts, dust and moisture will still eventually work it's way in to the threads and the exposed threads. Put a dab of silicone on the treads and it will come apart as if it were new years later.
     
  7. May 31, 2018 at 5:37 AM
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    trd716

    trd716 New Member

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    trd catt back/ bilstein leveling 5100's trd, rear sway bar , trd front sway bar
    I ended up cutting the bolts in half then fished them out thru the holes in the side. next step I will drill the factory holes open a lil bit bigger and weld in my own nut the right way so they will never spin again. thanks for the info guys :)
     
    Half Assed, equin, JDS and 1 other person like this.
  8. Aug 28, 2018 at 5:42 AM
    #8
    JDS

    JDS New Member

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    trd716

    Do you remember the size and length of the sway bar mount bolts you took out? I have the same issue right now.
     
  9. Sep 5, 2018 at 7:33 PM
    #9
    TundraTXTSS

    TundraTXTSS New Member

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    Just wondering how you fixed this?

    I just stripped the bolt or nut that conects the sway bar to the truck. There is a small hole I'm guessing to put a wrench, anyone know what size wrench would fit this nut inside the frame? Is the nut welded inside the frame here? I'm guessing I may have to get a hacksaw to cut the bolt off?
     
  10. Sep 5, 2018 at 7:38 PM
    #10
    trd716

    trd716 New Member

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    trd catt back/ bilstein leveling 5100's trd, rear sway bar , trd front sway bar
    Cutt my bolts out and replaced them with 7/16 bolts and flange nuts take a step drill and open the hole just enough to get the flange nut to push in but only the head not the flange . That should mate with the frame surface welded it all the way around to solve the issue
     
    DEDPUL likes this.
  11. Sep 5, 2018 at 7:42 PM
    #11
    ZPMAN

    ZPMAN 2nd place is the 1st looser

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  12. Sep 5, 2018 at 7:45 PM
    #12
    trd716

    trd716 New Member

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    trd catt back/ bilstein leveling 5100's trd, rear sway bar , trd front sway bar
    Yea no one in my small ass town had those and idk how good those will hold up over time so I did it the right way...I think anyway...there was no way to get a wrench on the nuts inside the frame
     
  13. Dec 15, 2018 at 10:26 PM
    #13
    georgiey22

    georgiey22 New Member

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    Hi all. I live in Southern California and this happened today to my 2019 with only 600 miles.

    Am I safe to drive the truck with only 3 bolts for now or should I park it?

    Also, we don’t get rust issues on trucks in these parts so I’m worried few mechanics if anyone around here knows how to manage.Does anyone on this thread live around here that I can pay to do this or should I take it to the dealer and beg them to try and fix this for me under warranty?

    Thanks,
    George
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2020
  14. May 15, 2020 at 10:03 PM
    #14
    weeknmech

    weeknmech New Member

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    Howdy. Figured I'll let folks know what worked for me: 19 mm crowsfoot wrench.

    The bolt was partially loose when the nut came off (yep, my neighbors knew right away).

    Tied a string to that 19 mm so I can fish it out easier.

    Here comes my unrealized potential as a surgeon apparently. Got the wrench on the nut with fingers going thru these little access holes. When putting the wrench in or taking it out, feed the open first.

    Then I tightened the nut some (crows foot will jam at some point, best position was with the closed end facing the front of the truck), since I was doing the opposite when it snapped off. Think like cutting new threads thru the layer of rust, back and forth, applying PB Blaster as a lube.

    I actually reused that nut, tightened nicely.

    Stay healthy!
     
  15. May 16, 2022 at 3:06 PM
    #15
    DEDPUL

    DEDPUL New Member

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    This helped with a two of the 4 bolts. I had to use a Sawzall to cut the front to bolts out because they were so rusted inside the frame. I then just fished out remaining half with a magnet.
     
  16. May 16, 2022 at 3:24 PM
    #16
    Retired...finally

    Retired...finally Utilizing that doctorate of procrastinatory arts

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    The last resort is what was required on my son's 88 Fiero. Cut out a rectangle the size of a 100mm pack of smokes to allow a small pipe wrench to hold the nut. Before stitching the patient back up, the MIG gun was inserted in the hole to tack the nut. Plan your hole for both removal and installation.
     
    DEDPUL likes this.

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