Welcome to the Official SoCal BS/ Shenanigans, Tundras and What’s Happening Thread

I need to find time to finish drilling mine

 

how was the install ? any tips ? John from WKOR told me it was a pita to drill Tundra frame..lol

 

Wear goggles and ignore the pain.

 

I installed by myself with jack and jack stands.
Used a moving blanket on top to help protect paint if it slid off jack. Definitely could've used help but I managed. Only have the side bolts currently because I needed steps for @Mrs. Nishibot. Kinda ruined my factory tubes on a run

I'm about ready to just find a place to get them drilled

 

Don’t even try they won’t fit 2nd gen. I’ll go pick them up from you and scrap them for free haha

 

It's not that bad Steve. I did a couple of holes for my buddy. Literally drilled a hole in like 1 minute with a step bit. But the second hole had like 2 layers of metal for some reason and that one took like 2 minutes. But we were racing so I was using 100% of my strength. Using normal human pressure it'll take like a few minutes a hole.

 

I’ve been pondering the age old question of what brand suspension to go with. I’ve had 2.5 Kings with adjusters in the past and loved them but have been heavily considering Fox this time around.

 

Either one is good. Just be sure to get 3.0's up front and 2.5 bypasses on the rear.

 

I did start at the very back mount closest to where the frame starts to arch up so maybe harder to drill there

 

on a side note I will never go back to Apple Valley unless it's for WKOR..lol

 

Why do you say to the 3.0’s up front??? Do the 2.5’s overheat on the Tundra???

 

nah..he just wants you to spend more $$$..haha

 

The 3.0's are a minimum in my opinion. The Tundra is one big heavy truck, you'll find out quick the 2.5's just aren't enough for anything other than fireroads. Only way I'd put a 2.5 coil in front is if I'm also adding a 2.5 bypass up front.

 

I haven’t heard of anyone overheating 2.5” coilovers.
If you’re doing just coilovers without secondary bypasses then 3.0 coilovers will give you more dampening and are probably a better choice. If you’re planning on adding a secondary bypass to the front then I would do 2.5” coilovers.

 

This is the type of info and feedback I was looking for. I talked myself out of 3.0’s after some reading here. Now I’m back on the fence, I have some time to think while I save my monies.

Any suggestions for UCA’s? I ran the Camburg uniballs on the taco but was thinking of running a ball joint for maintenance reasons.

 

I wholeheartedly concur! Those shavings are sharp and HOT!

 

Yeah, get 3.0’s. If you’ve been spending money active over on TW you know the ‘buy once, cry once’ philosophy is the right one.

Total Chaos (but decide on the whole package because some work better in certain combinations.

 

@tundra_20 im truly surprised no one has said to go LT

 

Haha! He’s new here. We’d like to watch him spend money!


(I’m the only one I know that skipped MT. It’s not “normal”... yet.)

 

Thanks, yes I know to buy what I truly want and that’s why I’m asking questions to people who’ve gone through it.

 

I was heavily considering LT but the truck is my daily and the pricing is a bit more than I can afford. Honesty I’d like to drive/ride in an LT before I go that path.

 

Well then. @fisherman951 is probably right: you’ll eventually want long-travel, so....

 

These forums will help you spend money for sure!!!

 

I first got Toytec Boss 2.5 coils and 2.0 rear smoothies. They did okay when I was mostly crawling on Norcal trails and on fire roads. But a couple of trips out to Mojave and Death Valley and as soon as I started getting a little speed, I quickly realized it wasn’t enough suspension. Not because they were overheating but they would bottom out on any moderate sized bump. I remember the first set of small whoops I hit and I thought my truck was going to break in half.

So as soon as the Icon 3.0’s came out I got them. With 2.5 double bypass rears and a hydro bump in the rear. The 3.0’s are legit. It can handle 1 foot whoops at full speed. It’s scary but the truck can do it if the driver can. It can pretty much hang with the LT guys. Not match them, just hang with them. Until you start getting on 1.5’-2” whoops. That’s where the LT guys start mashing while the MT guys are rolling over them at 5 mph.

Yeah, the Toytec’s really don’t compare to King, Fox, Icon or even ADS but I’ve also ridden in trucks with 2.5’s in those brands and there’s a significant difference between them and the 3.0’s. It’s not always about mashing through big whoops, it’s more about having enough suspension when that big sneaker sneaks up on you at speed.

Honestly if I were to build another MT Tundra I’d probably get a 2.5 Coil with a 2.5 secondary up front. Otherwise, I’d get at minimum a 3.0.

 

Thanks for the input. You’ve given me a lot to think about. This truck is significantly bigger than the taco so it makes sense that it’ll need a much beefier suspension setup to handle the trails

 

Some bad ass LT truck are here in SoCal and most if not all are willing to give you a ride. I believe @eccracer104 have been in some of those trucks.

 

Just @papasmurf ’s truck, but fingers crossed I’ll catch a ride with @Sunnier this weekend!

 

I agree with @joonbug assessment above. Only adding you can do a 3.0 bypass front and rear.
As for UCA’s I ran the Camburg ball joint model and they worked fine but give you quite a bit of caster. I personally prefer uniballs after having run both. Our SoCal weather doesn’t negatively impact them either.

 

Yup, what @jc153 said. Get uniballs. Camburg’s caster is really high. Icon tubulars are way too low. Total chaos is right in the middle along with MCM. Camburg and Icon heims are both really good but pricey.