Welcome to the Official SoCal BS/ Shenanigans, Tundras and What’s Happening Thread

I'm not sure breaking in new gears off road is a good idea... most gear installers recommend taking it easy for the first 500 mi. Avoid the heavy shock loading that occurs off road. When I installed my locker, Spartan provided no advice on break in or what gear oil to use. I went with some standard dino(non-synth)for the first 500, then switched to Royal Purple for the next few thousand or so. The locker normally makes a lot of noise as it ratchets around corners(if you're off the throttle)but recently seemed extra loud, so before I went on the Mojave Rd run with the BasTRDs, I switched to this:It has really helped quiet it down. It flows like 75-90 but has the film strength of 250 wt. I highly recommend it. It's pricey but worth it.

 

Thanks for the advice.
For the rear sways. I can always disconnect it while off road and hook it back up when on road? Remove the links and zip tie them up and out the way?
I DD my truck. Tow my toys.

I've been leaning towards lockers and surely buy once cry once.

 

Yes, it's not that much work to remove the 2 axle clamps and 2 lower link bolts, then swing the links up out of harms way. You wanna remove the bar itself to prevent dragging it over rocks.
@BestGen knows more about gears and lockers than I do, he's actually done the install. Only thing is we have different lockers. With an ARB locker you can't run synthetic oil even though the Nitro gears recommend it. It's bad for the ARB's seals. I run dino in the rear and syn in the front. Bofum are something like 75-145 weight like Paul is recommending.
I'll bet @Porschetech29 has some good info too.

 

Its not synthetic thats bad for ARB, its LSD additive. But also, the gear shop that did my truck said they've never seen a problem from using oil with LSD additive.

Also, I got the REM polish. Gear shop said no break-in, drive it like you stole it. Also, no fluid change for 50k. I asked them 3 different times in 3 different ways to make sure they were serious haha

 

That's good info and dammit you mentioned the LSD additive before and I forgot. I don't know how much extra REM polishing costs but the fluid alone for 2 diffs can be over $100 so it could easily pay for itself. I think @TRD15559 might have had issues from running syn with his ARB? I remember he was spitting oil but never heard the final outcome.

 

We can discuss bank heists and sugar daddy/mama shopping when we are off the grid. We definitely need funding for this.

 

REM was $160 plus shipping. Definitely worth it just because you don't have to worry about break in.

I also gained 1 mpg. I don't know if its because of the gear ratio change or the REM, but REM is supposed to help mpg and your diff runs cooler.

 

Totally worth $160! Cost me more than that in time to replace the pavers in my driveway that I spilled oil on.

 

So not to sound like a total NOOB but when asking the shop...

Should i just ask for the additional REM job...

Sounded funny out loud..lmao

 

Make sure u spell it out REM and don’t go asking for RIM jobs hahaha

 

So synthetic is bad for ARB seals? My buddy has had issues with his seals. Evidently a lot of ppl have recently. They're all saying the same thing... ARB seals ain't what they used to be. Maybe they're all using synth...

 

Its not synthetic thats bad, its the additive for LSD that ARB recommends you avoid

 

always ask for rem job. always

 

Gotcha! Redline does make a gear oil without the anti-friction lsd additive.

 

yes true. I believe @Bo-Hunter uses that one

 

In the rear I've got Lucas 85-140. Hope that's good stuff?

 

Usually you order them that way. The shop more than likely can't do it. I couldn't even find a place near me that could do a REM polish. I know SDHQ sells the gears already polished.

 

Ahh ok..
The gears are Nitro gears. I'll see if they can get it REM'ed first..
If not i guess i just need to "break" them in.

 

I don't know who you plan to order from but ask 'em about the REM. Pretty sure SDHQ will have 'em but probably not the cheapest. It's hard to put 500mi. on the front gears. I changed the front along with the rear but am keeping a rough estimate in my head of how many miles I'm putting on the front so I can change it out again. I changed the diff oil early, like 400 mi, 'cause I was taking a trip. Changed the rear again after the trip, bout another 600 mi. With the REM you'd avoid all that BS.

 

I did some research using other vehicle platforms as examples. The general consensus is hard use like racing or off road and you want 140w in the rear. I run 140w rear and 90w in the transfer and front

 

Hello everyone! My name is Sal, and I'm the proud owner of a 2014 Tundra 4x4 CrewMax, I've been lurking around these forums for years now, but I didn't join until recently, and eccracer directed me to this thread.

I'm excited to be a part of this awesome community; as for my truck, what can I say, it was my first truck, and I fell in love from day one; me and the family have had so much fun with it, from going off road to pulling our travel trailer, to becoming my daily driver, this truck has proved reliable as hell and a pleasure to drive.

Thanks for creating this forum for Tundra owners, and I look forward to continuing reading your guy's and gal's adventures, as well as maybe posting some of mine

 

Welcome @15thWarlock

 

Yup. Welcome not-so-new guy!

 

Welcome!!!

 

Howdy @15thWarlock
Who dis @eccracer104 you speak of

 

He was kind enough to answer a question I had regarding a tonneau cover for my truck, and not only that, but he provided me with a discount to get it, he's got my gratitude for doing that

Thanks to everyone for your warm welcome

 

He’s a good guy for sure he’s actually our local ...