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Weird Electrical Stuff

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by jpink, Dec 9, 2020.

  1. Dec 9, 2020 at 8:43 PM
    #1
    jpink

    jpink [OP] Aspiring Shade Tree Mechanic

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    So when I bought the Tundra it was a known issue that the rear windows would not roll down. When you push the button on the driver’s master control you can hear the “click” noise like the windows WANT to but nothing happens. The windows don’t roll down if you use the controls in the back either.

    The front passenger window only rolls down from the driver’s control.

    The keyless randomly works. Sometimes it’s flawless for a day, sometimes I have to use the key to unlock. When it isn’t responding I can still lock/unlock from driver side using the power lock button. The key in the door never locks or unlocks it regardless. This has been the deal since Day 1 with it. I need to buy a new battery to rule that out, and I only have the one FOB.

    Previous mechanic stated:
    Power window switch on driver door is not putting out power to activate power relay for back windows.

    Okay. But then why can’t I roll them down from the back? Wouldn’t I still be able to? Additionally I don’t hear a “click” when I use the controls in the back.

    Where would you start with this?
     
  2. Dec 9, 2020 at 9:01 PM
    #2
    APalmTree

    APalmTree New Member

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    My brother's first gen had the same intermittent key fob problem as well as a generally terrible range even when it was working flawlessly. A new battery might help you out especially if you don't know how old the battery is. As for the windows, are you familiar with the window lock function? From the drivers door you can lock the function of all the other windows. I only say this because my brother complained about the same issue for almost 2 years and when I finally agreed to tear the door apart and fix it with him, I found the button pressed and his windows actually function perfectly.
     
    jpink [OP] likes this.
  3. Dec 10, 2020 at 1:27 AM
    #3
    jpink

    jpink [OP] Aspiring Shade Tree Mechanic

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    @APalmTree haha no window isn’t locked :) I’d prefer that to have been the solution though!
     
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  4. Dec 10, 2020 at 3:42 AM
    #4
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Allergic to Darkness....

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    Too many
    Man I'm terrible at electrical issues but the fact that you can actually hear the rear window click makes me wonder if it's more likely an issue with the window motor. You'd think if it wasn't sending power back there it wouldn't make any noise.

    But then your last sentence seems to throw a wrench in my theory... Unless those switches in the back are dead.

     
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  5. Dec 10, 2020 at 4:00 AM
    #5
    Adam

    Adam And poof! All my patience is gone. TA-DAA!

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    If the relay isn't pulling in on the drivers switch to power the back, then the back wont work is the way I read that. I would start at replacing the drivers window switches and then move on from there.
     
    jpink [OP] likes this.
  6. Dec 10, 2020 at 8:41 AM
    #6
    APalmTree

    APalmTree New Member

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    Damn. Would have been way easier that way. And like I said, I had to ask since I have first-hand experience with someone who didn't know what it was. Also, have you checked fuses? It doesn't sound like that is the problem since you can hear clicking but it's worth it to rule out all the low hanging fruit first before you start replacing stuff.
     
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  7. Dec 10, 2020 at 1:32 PM
    #7
    rock climber

    rock climber New Member

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    My sequoia does this too, the exact same behavior. I read somewhere that it was the switches on the drivers side (whatever the whole thing is called) and that replacing it fixed the problem. Haven't gotten around to it yet, but that's the first thing I'm going to try.
     
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  8. Dec 10, 2020 at 2:15 PM
    #8
    jpink

    jpink [OP] Aspiring Shade Tree Mechanic

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    Fuses seemingly "look" good, nothing obviously sparked/broken/burnt on them. Totally appreciate helping with the workflow, get it. Start with easiest/least expensive work up, especially with electrical.
     
  9. Dec 10, 2020 at 2:21 PM
    #9
    jpink

    jpink [OP] Aspiring Shade Tree Mechanic

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    Driver side switch looks to be $494 and there's only a 35% restocking fee if that doesn't fix it. :bananadead:

    Will have to dig in the tech manual/Googles to see if there's a way to test the existing part. I'm thinking that's next spot to look. :|
     
  10. Dec 10, 2020 at 2:42 PM
    #10
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Allergic to Darkness....

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    Too many
    I would try finding a used one before paying that much. A lot of people seem to like car-part.com
     
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  11. Dec 10, 2020 at 2:50 PM
    #11
    jpink

    jpink [OP] Aspiring Shade Tree Mechanic

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    Wow, there's a place within 45 minutes of here that claims $35 will get me the part. I'll gamble $35 if it's really the same part..
     
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  12. Dec 10, 2020 at 2:50 PM
    #12
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Might work for you, but when I blasted some compressed air into the disassembly of my door switches the passenger side window began to work better. It used to get sticky sometimes and the switch would need toggling a few times to catch. There was plenty of dust all up in there. I used Canned Compressed Air. My little light on the driver window switch can be seen again! :yay:
     
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  13. Dec 10, 2020 at 2:51 PM
    #13
    jpink

    jpink [OP] Aspiring Shade Tree Mechanic

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    There's a light?
     
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  14. Dec 10, 2020 at 2:53 PM
    #14
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    Yes on the 2002. Only on the Driver Window Switch.
     
  15. Jan 7, 2021 at 2:45 PM
    #15
    jpink

    jpink [OP] Aspiring Shade Tree Mechanic

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    This was a good gamble. Part came, the trim piece was identical color but the trim from my Tundra was in slightly better condition. I wanted to swap buttons because my buttons were also in better condition but rollin' with it for now. This part did solve the window problems. Because the keyless is seemingly random time will only tell with that.

    The cylinder lock was physically disconnected inside the door. That was a quick and easy resolution.

    The other thing to note is the back of the window control had the part number 514359 match, but underneath the TOYOTA stamp mine had an A and the replacement had a B. I don't know if they'd do same part, new revision? At any rate, simple and inexpensive fix to get windows working.

    Edit: Don’t have picture of the B. Forgot to get one. Here’s the A.

    15C7303D-E155-4095-93B6-F95AD3970406.jpg
     
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  16. Jan 7, 2021 at 3:12 PM
    #16
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Just a part revision. A would be the first part run, then they change some spec or piece and the next part run its changed to B.
     
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  17. Jan 7, 2021 at 3:48 PM
    #17
    Tundra2

    Tundra2 Zoinked

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    Deer guard, LED everything.
    I had a conversation with @ktundra to confirm my suspicions that the later model DCs had surface mount diodes on the window switch board.

    These are pictures from our ping-pong. I hope that he doesn't mind me sharing the wisdom.

    Anyways, his board is the A model. Revision one.
    20210107_174251.jpg
    20210107_174310.jpg
    I assume your 05 would be the same way.

    The earlier models used a soldered on led that I was able to change out.
     
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  18. Jan 8, 2021 at 9:31 AM
    #18
    jpink

    jpink [OP] Aspiring Shade Tree Mechanic

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    Just as an update: Truck hasn't left the shame garage but my testing of, "poke head in the garage and randomly hitting the keyless as I walk by" has revealed some failures. Not 100% solved on keyless, but I'll take the rest of the wins so far.
     
  19. Jan 12, 2021 at 7:28 AM
    #19
    ktundra

    ktundra rust be damned

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    Glad to share with all :)
     
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  20. Jan 17, 2021 at 4:17 AM
    #20
    jpink

    jpink [OP] Aspiring Shade Tree Mechanic

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    Will need to revisit this. Making an initial run to Knoxville. Loaded everything up but had to park outside the garage overnight. Couldn’t lock the doors.

    Not from keyless.
    Not from either door panel.

    Needed some fresh air on the early drive this morning. Could only roll down driver window again. The front passenger window started to roll down then quit very quickly.

    Now. When I had everything ripped apart over holidays the first owner had tapped into power lines behind seat belts, in that run of electrical on either side. I wonder if that’s related somehow.

    BE9E3A94-9AD9-4CBE-B2E1-E22A4DB37704.jpg


    Anyway. Now there’s a 1” opening on front window and only 537 miles left to go. Next stop will see if I can roll it up somehow. Otherwise, eff.


    Edit: Battery reset didn’t resolve and control at front passenger window didn’t yield results. Will mess with it when I get to Knoxville and can deal with it better.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2021
  21. Jan 17, 2021 at 7:05 AM
    #21
    jpink

    jpink [OP] Aspiring Shade Tree Mechanic

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    Update: Randomly working again. Maybe it’s a grounding issue?
     
  22. Jan 17, 2021 at 7:09 AM
    #22
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Might be time to pull the harness through the door jamb and check for broken wiring.
    Next time it does it try opening the door and trying it out while it's open.
     
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