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Water Heater Installation

Discussion in 'Home Improvement' started by Clicknerdavid, May 31, 2021.

  1. Jun 14, 2021 at 2:37 PM
    #31
    BIOHZRD

    BIOHZRD New Member

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    As stated by those that seem to know, The gas line and the exhaust pipes are critical to your life. I have done hundreds in my plumbing past, and I do my own replacements. Soapy dish washing liquid and water for a leak detector is a must. A spoonful of Dawn or it's equal to a quart spray bottle and shaken up, works fine. Spray all joints and wait. Remember that a serious leak may not even make bubbles, as it is blowing too badly. I always put unions on both hot and cold lines, within 4" of the adapter going into the heater itself. For me, OR the next guy, whoever it may be. Do this only if you think it is manageable and SAFE! The lives of you and your family depend on it. Our codes don't allow any kind of gas work, except by licensed contractor. My favorite pipe dope is the gas rated Gasoila brand, available at plumbing supply houses. Good Luck, whatever you decide.
     
  2. Jun 14, 2021 at 3:12 PM
    #32
    poheller

    poheller 2018 Platinum

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    CO rises, not required in basements, unless the basement has sleeping quarters. Not required on 1st floors unless sleeping quarters are present. Ionization detectors shall be in the bedrooms, outside bedrooms within 21’ of the bedroom doors shall be CO and photoelectric detectors. It really does no good to overload a house with CO detectors, one is sufficient. Two if bedrooms are farther than 21’ apart. From the time a CO detector detects CO gas you have plenty of time to leave house and contact fire department. Unlike smoke.
     
  3. Jun 14, 2021 at 4:14 PM
    #33
    Bprose

    Bprose Old member

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    Funny how someone mentioned codes in his area. I’m from CA, codes very strict, for good reasons. Now here in VA building codes seem to be very lax. Every time I get into a project I can’t believe how shoddy the work was done. My current house was built in 93 but doesn’t even meet mid 70’s CA codes. Crazy.
     
  4. Jun 14, 2021 at 5:05 PM
    #34
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark Infected with 5G

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    Co does not really rise. It has basically the same specific gravity as air. That’s what makes it so dangerous. Natural gas does, propane is heavier and sinks, making that very dangerous as well. It really doesn’t matter where a co detector is in the home as long as you have one. Generally don’t put one right next to a gas appliance.
     
  5. Jun 14, 2021 at 5:06 PM
    #35
    poheller

    poheller 2018 Platinum

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    Home building codes really didn’t start to take place until the 70’s and there were vary few codes at that. So yes your 1993 home didn’t really have a lot of codes from the 70’s as there were not many of them, if any. and it’s still up to the local towns to adapt them. we have several county’s that you can build a home and no inspections are required. Not commercial if a county or town does not have a building department the state does the inspections pretaining to commercial construction. And this goes for California as well. It wasn’t until 1978 in California title 24 was an enacted by the federal government. To cover commercial and residential. Residential building codes are the same across the country they all come from the international code council. It is up to the chief building official did he say what his community municipality is going to inspect. My certification for commercial, residential is good across the country as we all take the same test, and continuing education.
     
  6. Jun 14, 2021 at 5:10 PM
    #36
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark Infected with 5G

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    Taping the joints is pointless on a natural draft appliance. Tape will only hold in the crumbles of rust from the vent pipe of a poorly vented natural draft appliance - not the vent gas.

    The venting here is not great. Also, I bet if you read the manual it will say to have a minimum of 12” vertical rise above the water heater before an elbow… something to think about when replacing it.

    Edit: this w/h has 3” venting and I believe most codes are going to require 4” venting. Combined with the other incorrect venting, you may need a shorty tank to get it installed correctly.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2021
    D4x4TRD likes this.
  7. Jun 14, 2021 at 5:24 PM
    #37
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark Infected with 5G

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    Couple more food for thought venting items since a tankless w/h was mentioned:
    1. Cannot vent a tankless heater into single wall or Bvent (some older ones may use bvent but not when combined with another appliance).
    2. Removing an appliance from a venting system may cause the main stack to be oversized for the remaining appliances.
     
    FrenchToasty likes this.

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