Warn vs Smittybuilt 12K synthetic

Smitty’s are unquestionably great winches.
This must be a really old comparison review. It says Warn doesn’t come with a wireless remote. My 10K Xeon Warn has the wireless remote and was installed about 5 years ago.

 

Are the stock cables long enough? I might do the same if no cable mod is required.

 

@gosolo - my Warn EVO 12k came with a remote that can be wired/wireless.



The irony here was that I was about to get the Smittybuilt, until I read their own comparison chart vs "leading competitor" aka Warn. Some of those things I could care less about, but the things I did care about it was a better option for me to go with Warn, namely the warranty and the IP68 waterproof rating.

 

@matictundra - No, the stock cables are just long enough for it to mount to the winch. I ordered a set of cables from Amazon to do the relo under the hood ->

$48 4 Gauge 4 AWG 10 Feet Red + 10 Feet Black Welding Battery Pure Copper Flexible Cable + 10pcs of 3/8" Tinned Copper Cable Lug Terminal Connectors + 3 Feet Black Heat Shrink Tubing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MD21BCC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The Warn warranty is better but the X20 is also IP68 rated. I wanted a Xeon platinum but found a good deal on the X20 on Black Friday. It’s not installed yet so I haven’t even tried it out though.

 

No, stock cables not long enough. I just bought some longer battery cables

 

I'll be mounting my Smittybilt 12k X20 in the next couple weeks (once the snow stops flying). My main consideration was cost, the Warn was about double the price and the smitty seems like it is a reliable enough option for the 3-4 times a year I'll use it. I'll let everyone know if I have trouble but my cheap ass thought about it on a cost per use basis and the Warn was too hard to justify.

 

Yep, when I went to get my knee replacement, I talked to several doctors and decided that the best doctor just wasn’t worth that much more money. I found a good doctor who would do the job for half as much. Figured I only use the knee occasionally so why spend those hard earned dollars. Probably will spend the money I save on a facelift and a tummy tuck.....
Said, nobody....ever.

 

not really comparing apples to apples there are we...
a better comparison would be buying a snap on 10mm socket vs a kobalt. both will do the same job but 1 is going to cost twice as much. will it last longer yes... will it matter probably not.

 

Finished re-installing the winch and bumper, hooked up the LED fog lights and amber running LED lights. Pretty easy the second time around , but getting it perfectly "finessed up" against the body lines a bit of a PITA, but it's done. Also, this time around I installed the winch foot forward versus foot down. This gives me peace of mind that now that winch would literally have to destroy the frame before it could ever come loose whereas I suppose it's possible (but highly improbable) in a foot down position you could sheer the bolts off. I took @thetwood advice, made up some cables (see the link above) and routed them into the engine bay. I chose to go to the passenger side, namely because the winch wiring connection was on that side and was just easier to route. Additionally, I decided to mount it on top of the airbox (stealing your idea for Velcro @thetwood ). I'll post a pic once I have it mounted.

 

If I buy a winch it will be a Warn non VR series. Their other models are assembled in the USA with many of the important components being made in house. The VR series is 100% foreign parts and assembly.

 

Yeah, you’re right, but it was a fine story!

 

After MUCH contemplation and shade tree mechanic ruminating, I finally fabricated a "quick release" bracket out of some scrap aluminum I had. A few cuts, some drill and tapping and below is what I came up with. Not sure if you can see what's going on here, but basically it's a "permanent" bracket that is fixed to the front of the truck then a second plate attached to the winch controller that then mates to the top of the bracket. I mounted it here to allow for the remote cable to pass through the grill if needed without issue. Also, to move the controller, I just remove the 2 hex screws and simply move the controller where needed. I can still access the oil dipstick and trans fluid reservoir so really shouldn't need to move the controller, but can be moved in under 60 seconds. What's more, I didn't need to drill a single hole in the truck, was blessed to have some existing holes right where I needed them. Forgive the less than respectable finished product, when the weather cooperates I'm gonna remove everything, clean up the edges and spray.

 

Made some "gator skins" from an old water pump belt. Trying to protect the paint on bumper/shackles from the swinging going down the road. Yes, I had to paint some eyes on them, they look like little gator heads to me, sorry, I couldn't help myself.