VVT-i rattle only when cold

This is not chain slap....

 

Then what is it?

 

This is the VVT actuator rattling.

 

And what actuates it?

 

The VVT actuator is basically a rotary hydraulic actuator that is controlled with oil pressure. Afaik when not full of oil the chain shouldn't be letting it wiggle around, but if the chain is too loose then it can, creating the infamous death rattle of the 3UR-FE

 

My truck had the exact same symptoms on cold start as you described.
I just had my 2014 in to be diagnosed- without a doubt the tech said as soon as he heard it on cold startup, it’s the timing chain tensioners wearing out. Quoted $5900 in labour and over $3000 in parts! Needless to say, I have just finished opening the front timing chain cover myself and am about to install all new chains and tensioners.
I can see now that the passenger side primary chain is loose so I’m hoping this will fix that issue.
My coworker’s brother in law runs a Toyota dealership and he has said that this issue is becoming more common as our 2.5gens start to age- might be something for owners to look out for.

 

Sooo in a roundabout way you just said "chain".
WTF dude just admit you were wrong.....
Gear drives are more expensive, noisier but, they last a hell of a lot longer than chains and they don't stretch like "CHAINS DO".

 

Not quite. Chain slap is when the chain itself slaps against part of the engine and makes noise. In this case the VVT actuator itself is rattling back and forth banging into it's own stops and making noise. Still caused by an improperly tensioned chain, but not chain slap.

Also nothing whatever to do with a stretched chain.

 

Chain stretch is caused by extreme wear which causes "slap" or in this case, noisy VVTs.
Just admit your ass is wrong.
My comment about reducing "chain" wear by additives is very valid and something that is tough to control with even good motor oils.
If I were Toyota and this thing or condition is common, I would of considered a belt drive before a chain drive.

 

Sooo…great arguments about chain slap, lol.

There are a lot of chain related things in this engine that can cause slappy noise… stretched chain (unlikely), chain wear (less unlikely), vvti actuators, timing guides, 4 tensioners… the 5.7 needs constant oil changes due to many small oil passages for the timing components. Sludge will kill it, or try and strangle it at least (like mine). Sludge will clog up the tensioners and vvti actuators.

Toyota makes some great engines. IMO the belt drive 4.7 is better, however, neither are going to leave you stranded.

Can’t wait to see OPs problem solved and which component is found to be the culprit.

 

Anyone have any ideas on mine? I have the same drivers side rattle that most of y’all have but it is only when warmed up, almost never cold.

 

Best bet would be to take it in to Toyota - usually an experienced tech will be able to tell you what it is quite quickly. Might cost an hour of their time or so, but then you’d know what it is and be able to move forward.

 

Good news! I already did that so I’m certain it is the drivers side tensioner. Thought maybe some 0w-20 and seafoam would might help

 

My friend is a Toyota mechanic and I was just talking with him yesterday. If that’s the case he says that you should be replacing the tensioner. Over time the hard plastic the chain runs along will also wear out and then you’ll have a very loose chain which could jump teeth and then your timing is off. Could cause some serious damage in the engine like bent rods, etc..

 

It’s a pretty big job but it is doable. I’ve got mine all apart using hand tools only from one of those mastercraft kits. Only needed to borrow a 17mm wrench and made a tool up to break torque on the crankshaft pulley bolt (221lb/ft) I have a PDF I will post up direct from Toyota that gives the exact specs on installing new chains and tensioners and the proper cam angles, marker positions, etc.

 

That would be fantastic!

 

Doubt that Seafoam is going to help a lot due to distance in small orifices' that it would have to flow to reach the tensioner. First picture shows size of orifice. The oil has to flow through the small tubes in the valve cover before making its way to the tensioner. Second shows my sludged up and frozen tensioner. 140,000 miles on odometer. The "sludge" doesn't just wipe off either. New part has larger orofice.