Upgrading UCAs today, yay

Should be the last step for my 2.5" lift/leveling project (besides alignment). Doesn't look to be very difficult, some good vids for it on youtube. I'll update with pics, nothing happening yet. Just waiting for UPS to arrive. I'm very appreciative of the information I've been absorbing here to help me understand early Tundras. Excellent resource, thank you.
Question: I have an alignment scheduled for later this week. I can't remember which thread but someone mentioned that Gen 1s ride best after lift/leveling (rolling 33" tires) with camber at +2.5. Should I request this at the alignment shop?

 

Upper ball joint will be the hard part.

I think the 2.5 is a target for caster, not camber. Look up "Tundra DJ's specs"

Set camber and total toe dead on the recommended settings. Set caster right at the upper end of the range the specs allow. These settings are within what Toyota allows for your vehicle, so neither they nor the alignment shop have any reason to object, and the higher caster setting will provide the maximum steering stability that Toyota's specs for your vehicle can provide.

 

Yes.... I meant caster, sorry.

 

Perfect, thank you.

 

Quick follow-up on this. I did the install yesterday and also added Suspension Maxx links while I was there. Just as Darkness suggested above... "upper ball joint will be the hard part". Roger that, it was. I thought it would be easy but my ball joint press lacked the correct size spacers/dies. So, BFH and lots of persuasion. Everything else went relatively smooth. Haven't driven it yet, alignment scheduled for tomorrow.
2020-11-18_12-32-17 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

 

This tool worked really well for popping the ball joint stud from the upper.
2020-11-18_12-32-50 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

The new steering knuckle insert went in like butter using a ball joint press.
2020-11-18_12-33-37 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

Done, yay.
2020-11-18_12-33-57 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

 

Nice work! For the alignment, DJ recommends .08 of total toe, when I had mine done at first they did .04 of total toe and it was a little wandery on the freeway, .08 of toe fixed it right up.

 

Thank you! I will pass that on to my alignment guy.

 

Yup, for some reason most press kits don't have the right fitting to get the ball joint out. Tota chaos used to sell one for about $15 that works well, it has a cup that goes over the bolt and sits on the rim of the joint and another cup that goes on the spindle to allow the bottom of the joint to pop out.

Nice work!

 

What uca you go with?

 

SPC

 

Do you guys have links for the tools needed to do this the easy way?

 

Ouchole! The price has doubled!
https://www.chaosfab.com/accessories/2000-2006-Tundra-Ball-Joint-Removal-Tool-96005

You need that and a ball joint press that you can rent at autozone.

 

I tried without that tool and was able to get one side off after 3 hours and so many weird positions with the ball joint press, I broke down and bough the tool and the other side took 15 minutes. So worth it.

 

Yeah, sometimes the object itself seems expensive but the time and frustration it saves you is what you're really buying.

 

Agree. When I did ball joints on my Wrangler I planned ahead and bought the special dies for my press, I think about the same price... super well worth it. Wish I'd have thought of it a week ago for this, but I didn't. Alignment is scheduled for today and it wouldn't have made it here in time. I could have rescheduled the alignment but I have a love affair with that BFH.

 

mo money, mo money, mo money.

Just got her back from the alignment shop and talked to the tech. He said that he couldn't complete the alignment because my LCAs were too rough. Charged me 1/2 for the alignment and said to bring er back after I install new lowers. So.... just ordered new lowers and what the hay, lower ball joints while I'm down there again. Parts should arrive by Thanksgiving. I'll update.

 

This happened to me about 4 years ago. Saved up a year later and dropped $3300 on a front end rebuild. Your truck will feel brand new again.

 

Hopefully I don't have to get in that deep. Also ordered a new alignment-eccentric-bolt set to go with the new LCAs. I think I'm at around $1300 - $1500 in front suspension parts now, which isn't too bad. The truck didn't really cost me anything so I don't mind wadding up some money to throw at it. Kind of a mild DirtEveryDay build... Fred and Dave would be proud.

 

Now I am laughing at my original post.

 

We've all been down the rabbit hole

 

I am in the midst of this rabbit hole. Collecting parts now.

5100s
Dobinson springs
OEM ball joints
JBA UCAs
Maxx links not ordered yet

And still contiplating other parts...

 

@Glock 40 that happens. When I tore into my front end I knew I needed new wheel bearings. I was planning to replace my upper arm bushings and uniballs, planned to have shocks rebuilt. Did not plan to need new lower arms, eccentric kit, and lower ball joints. Threw in outside tie rods and bump stops for good measure. My parts bill grew by about 30% but since I do the labor I see it like I'm still ahead. Front end feels brand new still and its been 2 years.

 

Very similar to mine however i did dobinson shocks and had them assembled. One less thing. Also had the add a leaf instead of block for read because of utility trailer or ice chests etc for hunting. Everything good so far. Add new spc cam bolts to your list and diff drop if 4wd

 

This thread, and specifically this quoted post really helped me understand how the adapter for the SPCs works. Anymore descriptive pictures?

I was kinda curious after I skimmed the instructions.

Thank you for posting by the way! I'm super excited for your progress.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by "diff drop".... are you referring to lowering the driveshaft carrier bearing assembly to improve pinion angle? Lower front diff? I'm used to lifting solid axle Jeeps so not sure what I'm missing here. This is my first attempt at a double wishbone suspension/CV system.

 

It's spacers that lower the front differential. I did it on my last truck, won't do it on the current one. The differential doesn't drop very much because the crossmember is right there. I think high angle cv boots are more beneficial than the diff drop.

 

I see, thank you. I doubt it will be necessary with the 2.5" lift based on that info. CV boots.... maybe. I'll definitely be keeping a close eye on those once I'm done. Thanks!

 

... just waiting for parts to get here now. LCAs, lower balls, and eccentrics. Should be here this week and I'm going to shoot for alignment next Monday. Trying to be patient but I'm eager to see how it does after the mods.