Upgrading to 2020 CM from 2017 DC - any reason not to?

If you find a tundra with bench seat upfront it will have the smaller gas tank. Not really worth switching just for rear legroom. But the sliding rear window is pretty sweet.

 

Personally, I prefer the DC and I have 3 kids (13, 10, and 4). I had a 2014 CM too. Just came back from a beach excursion and drove 4.5 hours one way with all of us in my DC. Zero cram, zero complaints. We hauled presents down there and beach stuff. The added bed space even with a truck box is a god send.

Also, personally speaking, I'd never go up to a newer year model as I hate all the sensors and added hoopla Toyota threw in.

 

I'm sure you're right. But my line of thinking when shopping for my 2018, was if I keep my truck for 15-20 years, as I plan to, which transmission (standalone cooled one, or integrated cooled one) has the better chance of being problem free up to 250k miles and beyond. How many 2019+ models have reached that point? I think it's very fair to assume the integrated cooler was a cost cutting measure, that was "good enough" versus a legitimately engineered upgrade over the standalone transmission cooler.

 

You could very likely be right, but I wouldn't expect any Toyota truck (or car for that matter) to have automatic transmission issues in the first 5-10 years, or 150-200k miles (they make really tough automatic transmissions).

But if you want to own one of these trucks for the long haul (15-20 years or more), I'm betting a standalone cooler will payoff in prolonged transmission life way down the road. I could very well be proven wrong, but I've seen tons of examples of early 2nd gen Tundras with very high mileage, and no transmission issues. That to me, is evidence the standalone cooler configuration is effective. The 2019+ models just don't have that body of evidence yet (it's too soon)

 

as far as the trade in, I think you guys are off. the KBB is $18K-$22K for my truck/mileage. I wanted $20K but think $19K is fair given it has the bearing issue.

 

can you elaborate?

 

Screw KBB partner. I recently sold on facebook marketplace a 2014 Honda Element with 153K for 8K and KBB was around 3K. You gotta do better with maximizing your profits man Keep an open mind....

 

No way would I pay that difference for what you’re getting, but it’s your money.

 

It is easy to just say, sell my truck outright...then what? Get a rental while I wait for the right truck to come up? Buy a beater for a while (finding anything drivable is still going to cost $$)? Still "need" a truck for "stuff". The trade in may not be as much as I might get privately, but I am willing to take a potential little hit for the convenience, no hassle, and simplicity - eliminate a ton of moving parts.

 

I think I will miss the 1' of bed space, but also will have more room in backseat for stuff. The TSS can be turned off, what about the auto cruise control? I assume it would be similar to Sienna?? That you just hold the cruise button longer and it shuts it off.

 

I kind of miss the roll down rear window in my 2006 DC but I also realize I’ve never found myself remembering I even had it now that I don’t. Much more practical in the 4Runner for hauling long/odd stuff.

I do love my bench seat but would also really like a much much larger tank. Range is my only grip with this truck really.

 

Curious for those who know. What parts of the TSS suite can be tuned off permanently (well, until battery reset or the like) and which have to be turned off every single time you start the vehicle?

 

this truck doesn't have the rear roll down as far as I know (and no slider). Not sure I would really use the power rear window?? Never use the slider (only the kids do when messing around).

 

Covid trucks.

Does the new truck even have keyless entry?

 

The bench seat was the only HAVE TO HAVE with my current searches. For me it is a comfort and functionality thing. Have the small tank now and it has never been an issue.

 

yes, keyless entry

being a 2020, I assume it was made prior to March 2020, but that is just a guess. probably could find with a VIN search?

 

Keep the truck and buy a second gen Sequoia =) Ton of room for kiddos in back, same engine/transmission.

 

It ain't so much turning it off as sensors go bad and just become annoying to replace as well as costly.

 

Yes.

 

This. We love having a 2WD for long road trips with everyone in tow

 

not anywhere near in the cards for what I want or need, but thanks.

 

$22k is a lot of money. I too have 3 kids (2, 8, 11) and DC. Occasional driving a few hours one way is okay, no one complains. When we don't need a truck, we prefer wife's Sequoia, though. If I had to keep just one vehicle, I'd pick Sequoia and get a trailer for towing.

 

10/2019

 

OP, if you can afford it and the backseat size is important, no reason not to get it. You won't find anything "new" more reliable than that 2nd gen Tundra with 39K miles or anywhere near that price point. That trade in price represents the current market, you might get $5k or $6k more selling it yourself, but your reasoning to trade seems solid to me.

 

KBB is out of touch with real world values. I follow 1st gen Tacomas a lot and KBB consistently pegs their value at less than half of what they sale for.

Compare your truck to 100k mile SR5 Double Cab 4x4 Tundra on the market and you'll find 19k is way low.

 

Rent a truck to bridge the gap. If you make an extra $5k on selling private party, you can easily afford the rental truck and still be way ahead.

 

I paid 20k for a 2016 DCLB SR base model a year ish ago. SR5 DC I was looking at then were all 35-42k range.

 

I did a quick look. Hard to find similar comparables, but I was amazed how much 2017 were "bringing" (at least asking):
2017 SR5 DC (Limited, leather, etc) w/ 105K miles = $27K
2015 SR% DC w/ 101K miles = $30K
lower mileage for mid $30K

I am guessing these will go for quite a bit less ($4-6K less than asking price?

That sort of blows my mind. Not sure people are paying that much - why would you if you can get a 2020 for a couple grand more (unless you didn't want the newer models)?

 

I picked up this '21 at auction in August.

4x4 nightshade limited
13k miles.
Still have to swap out the air bags and replace the bumper and radiator.

Other than that, it's looking to be a decent rig.

I wanted a '21 crewmax with the 5.7 and this is what I found.

I hunted hard for this truck. I bought it not even seeing it in person or hear it run.

First time I heard it run was when it was dropped off at my home.

My point is, those miles on a used Tundra aren't anything to get worried about.

If you like the truck and it ticks all the boxes, just buy it.

I bought my '08 in 2011. I wanted that truck. I'm so glad I bought it and put it back together. I'm still driving it everyday.

In case you are wondering, the '08 is a salvage Title truck I bought with 49k miles.

The '21 is a salvage title as well.

We buy Toyotas to drive them.

I guess my point is if you can make yourself drive the truck for 10+ years, it really doesn't matter what you initially pay. After it's paid off, you are making money by driving the thing for 5+ years with no payment.

 

My point exactly. People still think KBB is a good indicator of real-world value, when it's way off.