Undercoating: krown vs ziebart vs the rest

so with winter fast approaching it’s time to think about rust protection. What’s your guys thoughts on which is best? I had ziebart on my Tacoma but didn’t have it long enough to know if it stopped the frame from rusting so... the guy who did my left recommends krown (of course he sells it so why wouldn’t he) said that’s all that’s used in Canada and I mean they’d know best right lol. He said ziebart traps moisture. So thoughts

 

I think a number of people use this:

$236 POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating, Stop Rust and Corrosion Permanently, Anti-rust, Non-porous Protective Barrier, 128 Fluid Ounces, Clear

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45101-Clear-Preventive-Coating/dp/B00J6CLQ5Q

For retouching:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-heavy-duty-anti-rust-in-black.html

$7 Rust-Oleum 7776830 Stops Rust Spray Paint, 12 oz, Flat Black

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7776830-Stops-Spray-12-Ounce/dp/B000SADDVA

 

Interested in hearing peoples opinions. Local guy hear does Krown. Cant wait for Upstate, NY winter I am going to have it done but just curious on peoples thoughts!

 

Oh you’ll love it lol upstate ny winter can be quite ... magical lmao

 

Side note really one person commented. No one has an opinion about undercoating!?

 

Spray on 2 cans of Fluid Film for less than $25. No prep work required.

 

I just got a fluid film kit with 20% off from ebay.
For 2 gallons and a spray gun with 2 bottles. I should be able to do my truck a few times with that. I like the no prep work. My truck is in pretty good shape for a new England vehicle so if I start now I should be just fine for a long time if I use FF one or 2 times a year

 

I used fluid film on my tacoma for years and still failed the frame inspection last april....Lots of time and money wasted.

 

Wow first I've heard of this. Was it the frame in bad shape when you got the truck?

 

I’m leaning toward the krown.

 

Not at all, truck came from southern wv where road salt is not used very often. Had similar results with my 03 civic, I soaked that car every fall and had to trade it in because the floors, trunk, and rocker panels were rotted really bad. That car did see alot of highway salt but still..
I think this year I am going to spray good ole motor oil on my new tacoma frame.

 

Boeing has a product out called Boeshield wich may be worth trying. The price is a little steep at $18 per can but they make high quality stuff so it might be actually worth it. Amazon sells it.

 

Did a search on rust proofing, rust control and keep seeing this product or company/product called Krown Rust Control.

After finding their website I still have questions.

Who here actually has this product applied to their Tundra?

They drill holes everywhere? Like where and how many?

Are you happy/unhappy with your choice?

Thanks
Tom

 

I use Krown. They did not have to drill any holes. The jury is still out on it. I have had it through 1 winter. I am thinking I will see the true results in about 3 years. But I did get it applied when I first bought the truck so I have the warranty protection.

 

I think any of the spray oils beat Ziebart. Ziebart warranty is void if you go off-road, and I think it traps moisture in. I had it done when I bought my 15 in 17. I regret it after doing a ton of research. I spray Fluid film now from a air gun twice a year now. I typically overspray and use a gallon each time. I like that it is self healing and creeps in places like frame rails. I do like having the holes Ziebart drilled to apply fluid film. I would definitely use krown if a dealer was local.

 

More has been posted here on Ziebart since this thread began.

Ziebart uses two different products in their treatment: A heavy asphaltic based material to undercoat the chassis, and a waxy, less viscous material they spray inside doors and panels to prevent rusting out from the inside. The material is sprayed into doors, quarter panels, and rocker panels using a long wand through unobtrusive holes they drill in door jambs and under the rocker panels. Plastic plugs are installed to seal the holes after treatment.

A recent thread showed a youTube video of a Ziebart treated vehicle with a chassis that was literally being eaten away UNDER the asphaltic coating. I had a vehicle Ziebarted decades ago, and had good results, but I lived in a mild climate with no road salt used. I really liked the material sprayed inside the doors; it seemed to provide full coverage, and tended to self-heal damage to the coating like some of the products in the testing mentioned below. But the stuff used on the chassis..no one would recommend it after seeing that video.

Another thread has another video posted of a young guy doing a professional-level comparison test of about a half dozen spray can rust proofing/rust prevention products, including POR. CRC and another I can't remember were the best, Fluid Film was middling as I recall...Krown was a total fail.

Do the search for thread links.

 

@Bigdog

He had Krown on his and it looks great.

I plan on getting it done in the next couple weeks.

 

Myself and a few others have used Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector with good results. Zero rust with the first year of Wisconsin salt and winter. Coating still looks fine. I think I used 3-4 cans to cover everything. Washed the truck then let it sit in the garage for a day or two so it could dry and then sprayed everything down.



https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...nts/heavy-duty-metal-protector/?code=AMHSC-EA

 

Ziebart always made a mess of my vehicles but it also seemed to work. Lots of good suggestions in this thread from others though.

 

South Main Auto on the youtubes has a few videos of his truck getting crowned and an aftermath video. Dude's a great dude. The type of mechanic I'd search for if I didn't wrench on my own stuff.

 

Another Fluid Film dissenter here. Used it at home and at work for years. Disappointed after a few years; results based complaining. You really have to stay on top of it, it come off easily, comes off entirely with a pressure washer, extended road spray washes it off, simple green removes it effortlessly...It failed me and I'm done with it. My 2002 F250 was rust-free, I fluid filmed the $h!t out of that thing, didn't matter, it started to rust in a lot of areas that I was very deliberate about coating. At work we used it on ATV's, UTV's, Trailers, etc... again, disappointed. It may work for some and it is better than nothing, but you need to reapply multiple times per year.

About 2 years ago I made a full switch at home and at work to Amsoil HDMP. This stuff is almost impossible to remove with anything other than acetone. Pressure washer won't touch it, simple green has no effect. It creeps into all joints, seems, and welds. Once it sets up it is like a very dry, sticky, wax; almost like paint that's 90% dry. I can go back to vehicles, frames, trailers, etc, that I treated 12-18 months ago and it's still there, still protecting.

Fluid film never truly "sets-up". It's always goopy and wet, I can wipe it right off with a rag, and a pressure washer with a green tip will remove it entirely. Just the basic mechanics of how the 2 different products react to those conditions is enough for me. 3 cans of Amsoil HDMP will heavily coat the underside of a truck, I mean every square inch. If HDMP isn't available to you or you don't have a local Amsoil dealer, the only similar product that I have found is CRC SP-400.

 

I'm a dealer, but I don't sell for a profit. I just sell it at my cost if anyone is interested. They do give me a cut of the sale, but after my yearly $500-700 order I get like $3-5 back, doesn't cover my membership cost. I just like the products so I don't mind paying for it.

 

Here's a couple links to some of the vids that have been discussed here lately, and there's lots more on YouTube to make a pretty informed decision on what to use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXlhmbvdKBo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=509&v=nXvl9nt57Kg

 

That 1st video is spot on. I watched it completely unbiased and was ready to make a switch to a different product if need be. Every comment he made I have personally witnessed with at least 1/2 of those products.

He is way off on the prices though. Amsoil HDMP is not $20-25 a can. Last year I payed $129 for a box of 10 cans. I will add they are also oversized cans and price per OZ is less than CRC or Fluid Film.

His comments on fluid film are exactly why I ditched it. Can be easily wiped off and a pressure washer removes it entirely. That's not protection.

 

Do you use a extension hose thing to spray amsoil hdmp into the frame, etc? How does hdmp spray? Will it creep at all? Sounds like hdmp is a lot less maintenance. One thing I am very thankful for is that Toyota made those plastic wheel well liners.

 

For Amsoil I use the straw for some areas and not others. It does creep into everything because it goes on very thin.

Frame rails, suspension, and rear axle I just use the can nozzle to get a bigger spray pattern.

I'll also spray into body access holes, holes in the frame, bottoms of the body, etc... with the straw.

 

I did pretty much did the same. There was 90% without the straw. Just let it over spray and coat everything well. I also let the truck sit for 12-18 hours to let it dry. It is very fluid when sprayed and can be removed easily, but once it dries it's on there strong. Also your truck will smell like the product for a few days.

 

I have used Krown for years. Works great and really finds its way into little cracks unlike fluid film. They drilled my door sills (sp)? And tailgate i believe. I Have them do it once and a while but mostly just buy 4 cans and do it myself.
FF smells like a durty ass too.

 

Yeah, his dealer is pulling a huge profit. Your price was also a little high as a case should be 12 cans. Feel free to send me a PM.

 

Wow, this is great info. I was going to have that stuff done to my truck but glad I didnt. I dont mind getting under my truck once a year to spray the oil based stuff vs the black gunk. Great find and read. Thanks gals/guys