Tundra2's lifetime project

I've been buying the Havoline 10W-40 6 quart box at Wallace wurlll.


I've been using this since I noticed it at Wallace wurll. My V6 takes about 6 quarts with the extended oil filter.

 

10w-40 is the recommended oil for the V6?

 

No. 10w-40 is what pops ran in it because and I quote: "it's old. Slightly thicker oil might be easier for the oil pump to push." I just continued using it since I've had no issues running it.

 

Ordered the calipers, and WE rebuild kits. Slept on it, and decided to change my steering rack bushings, and my sway bar links. @jpink heard my terrible squeak from them, and agreed that it was rowdy. The below screenshot is for data tracking later.

 

I had the rack bushings and the sway bar end links done when I had my frame done (because free labor) and it tightened the steering up quite a bit. Definitely worth it. Can't comment on the labor involved on the rack bushings though.

 

@FirstGenVol and I replaced @jpink's with success, mostly. Rack has to come off, and old bushings have to be pressed out. Should be a good time to install these shown below.

 

@FirstGenVol drove my truck when I was southeast, and thought my calipers were sticking. Figured it was time for an upgrade anyway at 344k miles... Since my 13WL test fit with @jpink's truck which can be found here, and my return from Knoxville. I'd been tinkering with the truck in my few hours of spare time each day. Breaking up the work on the brakes.

Upgraded from 13WE to 13WL Brake calipers. Ordered these powerstop 13WL calipers, and two 13WE rebuild kits from Rockauto.com. Rotors, and Pads were supplied by @jpink as partial payment for the mostly successful rebuild of his truck.


As you can see from the below image, it was almost time for new brake pads anyways.


Bleeders are also smaller. 8mm wrench instead of a 10mm wrench.


Here's two videos of my brake bleed. First one is real time. 2nd one is 4 times normal speed for those that don't have much time.
https://youtu.be/YrQVmsv5M78
https://youtu.be/sJTBgkmLFN8

Brakes feel good if not a little soft. Probably still have a little bit of air in the lines, but can rebleed soon.

 

So 13WL is the best option if sticking with 16’s? Or is there anything better?

17’s open the door for bigger 14W? Calipers?

 

I have no real idea of what's available for our trucks. I know the later years of our trucks came factory with 13WL already so I used that piece of knowledge in ordering. I assume the 14whatevers require a 17" wheel.

 

Outer, and inner toe rod replacement with new rack boots, and Rack Bushings.

As always, started with jacking the truck up. Got to use my brand new harbus freightimus Daytona 3 ton, High lift jack. Best impulse buy ever.

Promptly followed by removing the wheels, and replacing the inner, and outer tie rod ends first. Once it started getting dark, the light bar on the corolla provided excellent work lighting.


When I removed the drivers side Rack boot, which wasn't torn, I was surprised to see watery oil drip out of the boot. I removed the outer tie rod, and then the inner with my GV20 vise grips. Again, another great impulse buy. As you can see below, my inner tie rod was gnarly.


Here is a side by side shot of old Vs. new. The Sankei 555 feels like it was made with exceptional quality standards, and even arrived pre-greased as pictured. I used a small amount of blue thread locker to keep the inner tie rod on the steering rack.


Once, I had my Tie Rods on, and boots on I started in on replacing the rack bushings. I don't have any pictures of the process, but I do have this picture of the new ones installed, and the rack back on. @jpink would be proud.


This morning I greased my new tie rod ends, and my SPC upper ball joints. About 7 pumps per tie rod until I got new grease out of them. That 55° angle on the tie rod zerk is the tits.

Spoiler: Parts Links

All pictures are links to the corresponding parts.

Spoiler: Outer Tie Rods

Spoiler: Right Outer Tie Rod

Spoiler: Left Outer Tie Rod

Spoiler: Inner Tie Rods

These are both Left, and Right parts. "Universal."

Spoiler: Steering Rack Bushings

Spoiler: Steering Rack Boots/Bellows

Again, "Universal" part. One per side.

 

That uneven pad tells a story. A story about a guy way overdue for new calipers.

 

Lucky girl

 

Cleaned out the bed to make room for new additions, and also a post mortem from the last job.




Local school is renovating, and filing cabinets are free.99.

 

Why do you need filing cabinets if 90% of documents are in electronic format?

 

I prefer analog documentation, but these are mainly for porch storage to help clean up more of the clutter.

 

i have file cabinets full of over 200 toyota manuals... LOL

 

I can see the appeal of cabinets to organize stuff.

 

Tundra2, what holds the CHMSL assembly in after you remove the four screws... just the adhesive gasket? Mine (2005 DC) feels like it's held in by something more, and it won't come out.

 

Just the gasket at that point. The two outer screws screw into the two white squares on the body. The two inner screws hold the lens to the reflector.

Cut the seal with a screwdriver or knife. After that it should pull out towards you.

 

344,685 miles.

Finally got around to installing my mevotech sway bar links.


Drivers side needs some adjustment, but the truck only has a little body roll now. I got real tired of riding round with no links. Had to keep reminding myself I couldn't handle corners the same as I was before.

Went ahead and greased the outer tie rods, and SPC upper ball joints while I had the grease gun out.

 

1. Holy shit you've done a ton of work on this thing.

2. I want those leaf springs. Gimme gimme gimme

 

Surprised you didn't bring up the hood lights

 

Those are cool too.

 

So are your two tundra air boxes identical or different?

Does your 5vz exhaust crossover pipe go under the truck or between the engine and the fire wall?

 

Planning for future TB/WP and now alternator job. Perused RA. Found the following items.

1. Continental Lower Rad hose $8.62
2. Continental Upper Rad Hose $11.88
3. Aisin T-stat seal $2.33
4. Aisin T-stat 180° $13.42
5. Gates Power steering belt $12.85
6. Gates AC belt $11.32
7. Aisin TB/WP kit with Hyd. tensioner $175.79

Good idea to replace anything else at 345K miles? Idler pulleys for the accessory belts?

Fan clutch? The fan itself?

 

345k! Keep the front calipers and tie rods. Replace the rest.

 

All that's been replaced already! The only thing left on this truck I haven't touched is mostly the engine. I replaced the injectors with dirty deeds at 310K?

 

Thats awesome. Im trying to get my titan to 300k, but its not happy about it.

 

Calling upon the expertise of @empty_lord for more advice on anything to replace while in there?

 

The idler for the a/c likes to go bad… fan bracket wouldn’t be a bad idea since they do fail. Aisin sells the fan bracket, the idler? Oem