Tundra Towing Truths

A public service announcement for new and old members of the community.

Tundras can tow trailers well. In some cases, amazingly well in comparison to other trucks in its category, if the following is considered:

1. Yes, you will feel that trailer.
   
   Even if it's a few thousand pounds, it's weight behind you and it's moving. More OCD you have, the more you're going to feel it. Anyone who says "I don't even feel it" must only tow downhill or lives on the flat plains.
   
   The worse the aerodynamics of the trailer, the more you will feel it - you will feel a flat deck less than you will feel a square front travel trailer. But feel is relative to the person - do not take anyones word for it. You have to tow for yourself to know.
   
   
2. Gas engines need to rev to get power.
   
   The 5.7 isn't a diesel and doesn't have turbos so there is limited low end torque. It's also combined with a 6 speed transmission vs 9 or 10 speed. So don't expect to go up a mountain pass and stay in 6th gear. And reving the engine is NOT A BAD THING. It was designed for it. Reving does not equal straining.
   
   Also remember: added bigger tires and didn't regear? You lost power. You're likely not going to love towing a heavy trailer through the mountains if you are running stock gears and 37" tires.
   
   
3. Tundras don't have a huge amount of payload and limited towing capacity.
   
   Know your hitch weight and payload capacities. Don't tow over the weight of your specific truck and trailer. Your RV salesman is just trying to sell you a trailer. Get the combo weighed.
   
   Also note that that bed stiffeners, side steps, lightbars, extra batteries, tool box, baby seats, after market bumpers and camping gear all takes away from your payload.
   
   Do the basic math: the truck payload sticker says something like 1200 lbs (check yours - they can be lower or higher). Did a few mods? Let's say 200 lbs of sidesteps, lights and that little toolbox you keep back there. The bed cover added another 100 lbs. A family of four can easily weigh 500 lbs. The dog is another 50 lbs. They've stuff they put camping in the back that adds up fast. 200 lbs worth, plus that package of firewood at about 50 lbs.
   
   1200 - 200 - 100 - 500 - 50 - 200 - 50 = 100 lbs left of payload. Now you want to add a 700 lb tongue weight trailer to the back? Yes, lot's of folks do it. The Tundra can handle it... yada, yada. You're technically overweight. In this example, you should shift as much of the weight to the trailer as you can. If you can't, this is when you ask yourself if this is the right trailer for any half ton truck.
   
   
4. Stock Tundras squat when weight is added to the hitch.
   
   Pro's "look" worse because they come from the factory level with the front (no rake). Want to fix that? Use a weight distribution hitch. If you can't (like with a boat), airbags work. Shackles don't reduce squat, they just lift the back higher before the squat. Replacement springs do help reduce squat if they are the right ones (usually custom).
   
   
5. Weight distribution hitches distribute weight, airbags just level the truck.
   
   Big trailer? You'll solve most of your problems with a WDH so focus there first. Here is the video from Equalizer Hitches on WDH vs Airbags. Yes, they sell WDH, but they also shared their math.
   
   
   
   Related threads:
   
   Towing with bags and WDH
   
   
6. Tundras are not Super or Heavy Duty trucks (at least not to date).
   
   A 3/4 or 1 ton has more payload and will tow better. Different category. Heavier truck. Designed for towing and weight. Can't compare.
   
   Yes, you can compare it against a Ford, Ram or GMC, but also remember they have many more configurations of their 1/2 tons than Toyota does. Toyota's base model Tundra is the same engine and transmission as the most expensive. Not the case with the competitors which gives them a noticeable advantage on paper, and depending on the trailer and conditions, also in real life.
   
   
7. It's a good idea to watch your transmission temps.
   
   You need a third party tool or app connected to your phone but your transmission temp is a health check for your truck. Get to know them. But also know that third generation Tundra transmissions run hot. The light only comes on at 300 F.
   
   Related threads:
   
   OBD Dashboards
   
   
8. Towing mirrors work, for towing.
   
   Got a wide trailer? Use the right mirrors. There are lots of options available for towing mirrors OEM and aftermarket. They are designed for towing and there are tradeoffs if you spend most of your time without a trailer. Nothing wrong with clip-on mirrors for the few times a year tow.
   
   Related threads:
   
   Towing mirror feedback
   
   
9. Towing fuel economy can be a shock.
   
   If you're new, it's worse than you thought. That's the case with almost every tow vehicle. The distance to empty can't be relied on. Open your wallet, this will hurt.
   
   Related threads:
   
   Towing: 6 MPG
   
   
   
10. The OEM brake controller has mixed reviews.
    
    Works for some, doesn't for others. In general, the more people tow, the more they find things about the way the OEM controller operates they don't like There was a technical service bulletin that fixed software issues related to disconnection notices in and around the 2018 model year. Regardless, make sure you go through the menus and set it properly. There are options to swap out the OEM controller with a very reliable aftermarket using close to the same physical location on the truck.
    
    If you don't have an OEM controller, it's likely there is a harness under the dash that you can buy a plug-and-play connector for.
    
    Related threads:
    
    Factory Brake Controller Issues
    
    
11. Can you tow it?
    
    The problem is Tundras is they are designed well and have a solid amount of usable power. So the answer is usually yes, you can hitch it up and it will pull it. Heck, a Tundra pulled the Space Shuttle. But just because you can, doesn't mean you should. Don't rely on anonymous internet strangers even if their setup is confirmed to be exactly the same. Do the math, be safe and your results may vary.

Add, debate and discuss.

 

#knowyourweights

 

That's the way to do it.

 

Balls Included!

 

Indeed!

 

This Thread Should be a Sticky !

 

Good post.

 

Excellent write up.

 

good towing info.

 

excellent...Thanks for taking time to type all that info.

 

I have a feeling @mountainpete is working his way to a diesel truck
Honey, look at this list. I would need me a new diesel truck asap. lol

 

Well put OP...and the correct dose of reality is always appreciated!

 

Not really. I've had 4 Toyota trucks - a 1979 BJ40, a 1984 BJ42 and a 2003 Tacoma (that I had for 15 years) and the 2018 Tundra. Similar rules applied to them and they all performed stellar (well except that 79 as it was a rusted out pig). They just need to be understood.

I bought the most recent gen Tundra because they hit a sweet spot that to me is just a bigger Tacoma. I also understand the trade-offs hitting that sweets spot means: reliable but dated, powerful but thirsty and capable but constrained. A Hemi powered and properly geared Ram 1500 will pass me towing across a mountain pass, but I'll get there only a few minutes behind and then perform considerably better on the fire roads or dirt track at the destination. That Ram may also have 5 recalls, 3 software updates and drop 40% of its resale value before its first oil change.

Our current travel trailer currently is less than 3500 lbs and we are always well under weight and safe. Our planned next trailer will be larger, but still within my comfort and safety range in order to travel with the family across the Rockies every year while towing.

With all that said, if this truck had a diesel and an extra thousand pounds of payload it would be perfect.

 

@mountainpete
That's one of the best description of Tundra that I've read!

Same reason here, wanted a V8 Tacoma for a little more towing capacity but they don't make one. Since I had to go big, considered a diesel for a while but decided not to due to Tundra's reliability ...

Dodge used to make little v8 trucks maybe a tad bigger than Tacoma but v8. Not sure what they are called but I see them and have heard they are reliable but I think there is not much of a market for a Tacoma size v8.

 

Just dragged a 3500# boat and a camper shell full of my wife's idea of what's needed for a 4 day trip about 7 hours round trip at a little over 9mpg (70-75mph). This truck tows pretty well but its certainly not a 3/4 or 1 ton.

Something I have found as transmissions got smarter and more complicated that holds true for this truck is find the sweet spot speed. A mile or two faster or slower may make the truck stop searching for the right gear. On this trip going with a headwind I could run 74 or I could run 69 but in between the truck kept downshifting running basically flat ground. On the way back with no headwind 72-74 was fine.

 

Dakota. Earlier gens came with a 318 (5.2L) or a 360 (5.9L). Later gens could be equipped with the 4.7L (not a great motor, IMO, predates the Hemi)

 

You’re referring to the Dakota

 

Dodge Dakota, had one, 318, was a quick truck for sure! Lots of tickets with that one!

 

I can't believe there are still posts that talk about "searching for gears." Maybe it's because the newer Tundras don't have a Sequential Shift mode, I'm certainly glad my 2010 has it!

 

The newer ones still have it. It's the exact same transmission (minus an external cooler as of 2019).

 

I have "sequential shift" in my 2016 but it seems to only be a suggestion to the truck. It's not as much searching for gears as it is torque convertor lock up. I must admit, in all my miles I have not seriously experimented with manual shift to see if it helps with the convertor.

 

Great,

When you get the time to really mess with it, you'll see you most certainly can control lock-up by shifting with gears, instead of the throttle. Lock-up occurs in 4th,5th and 6th gears, choosing the gear that stops all the heat-building up-shits/down-shifts that prevent lock-up will make a real difference. 100,000 mile brakes are another benefit too

 

How does one "mess" with it, or even discover "lock-up"? I just drive, I have no idea what my transmission is doing. The truck doesn't struggle or hunt for gears.

 

With OEM tire sizing it's not an issue, but I do find that even with a modest size increase like 285/65r18 and a trailer there can be more action in the transmission. TC lock and unlocks, shifts, etc. I'm not declaring it a bad thing, it's just more noticable.

 

One "messes" with it by making an effort to learn why Toyota included the Sequential Shifter in the Tundra. It isn't for everyone, we can be different. Some of us want to drive our trucks like we drove our '83 Reliants and some don't.

 

I use mine all the time, especially on down hill slopes and every time when coming to a stop. But never on flat ground.

 

I remember I could spin (chirp) the tires in 2nd gear when it was new. It got annoying being governed at 18mph in 1st gear though.... Once it got reflashed I could redline to whatever MPH I wanted.... Either way, towing up hill from below sea level to 5,000 feet in a steep incline, I ride in 3rd gear. No gear hunting no accelerating nor falling behind and shifting gears... Just 6 mpg all the way up, maybe 3....

 

Torque converter lockup feels similar to a gear change, but only a couple hundred rpm. In tow haul mode it should always lock for you 2nd and 3rd genners. When unlocked the torque converter spins at a different speed than the gear set and creates a lot of heat, especially when towing.

 

I agree. My tundra pulls better than some of the other 1/2 tons. I had a duramax before this truck and it’s not even apples to apples though. Tundra has plenty of power but i def know trailer is there .

 

OMG where can I by that. I really really want that.