Tundra part replacement at high mileage

Hey everyone, i have a 2004 Toyota tundra double cab RWD V8 4.7L SR5 TRD with just over 250k. So I'm getting ready to do a bunch of over due maintenance, suspension, bilstein 5100s,with dob springs, timing belt/W.P./tension/Idler, all fluids, plugs, rack Boots, power steering clamps at reservoir, control arm bushings, O2 sensors, possibly radiator (only because i got a brand new one for $50 because, someone ordered the part, truck has 245/65/R17 tires. Door says R16 and spare is 16", but i got 5 brand new 265/70/R17 grabbers for $100 ec so I grabbed them. Going with 1.5" lift/level. Might have an inch from the 17s, center Carrier bearing. My question is at this point do any of you have recommendations on other parts to replace while it's completely torn open. What have you guys had fail between 250k-350k

 

Have you THOROUGHLY read through this>>https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

^^^THIS^^^

Pay close attention to the LBJ sections as it should be high up on your list.

• Parts you should ONLY buy OEM, else you *will* eventually find yourself kicking your own ass: LOWER BALLJOINTS (bigtime). O2 sensors. Starter. Fuel pump. Cam bolts & sleeves (also huge). Lower control arms (also huge). Too many ppl ignored that lower balljoint warning & found their front wheel horizontal, stuffed into their cab. Don't be them. OEM pricing on LBJs is comparable to aftermarket, be sure to buy fresh high-strength bolts (8 needed) when replacing! Some aftermarket-is-OK parts exceptions HERE. But seriously, THE OEM LOWER BALLJOINT HYPE IS REAL, here's some proof, you don't want to be these people: , , link, link, link, link, link, link, link. If you're worried about costs of OEM, buy the OEM recall kit?

• Use OEM parts ... i.e. Toyota / AISIN / Denso / Advics brands. Especially with electronic parts only order Denso/Toyota, esp. if tough to replace (starter, fuel pump), go OEM. ALWAYS order OEM lower balljoints!!! (and get fresh LBJ bolts), you saw the pics linked above, right? Toyota's OEM filters for air and oil are actually incredible, contrary to some may expect. Toyota designed their air and oil filters with longevity of their engines in mind, you do not need (and probably shouldn't) use aftermarket filters regardless how much you love Wix (my favorite) or other brands. Speaking of filters, believe me when I tell you it's almost never, ever the fuel filter causing your starting/running issue. Don't bother busting your knuckles swapping it out if you're certain yours is OEM original. 2005-2006 trucks don't have a filter outside the tank. So far we've seen one person who found the fuel filter was their problem ... and the clogged filter on their truck was an aftermarket parts store brand made in Israel, not Toyota OEM. Their symptoms were the engine bogging down under lead, which is also something that can happen with fouled plugs and a single bad coil pack.

• Lower balljoints: Toyota had a recall for some models, but here is a dire warning to heed: Always replace lower ball joints w/OEM (and use fresh bolts). The LBJ on first gens is a major high-stress point; Toyota over-engineered their recall LBJs to compensate, 3rd party aftermarket doesn't bother. You will find yourself in the hall of shame. This even goes for Moog, NAPA, AC Delco brand who had LBJ recalls! Note: Moog outsources many parts nowadays, the failed LBJs for 1st gen Tundra/Sequoia made 4/2020-5/2021 with Moog/NAPA/AC Delco branding had 12% failure rate (link to NHTSA).