Tundra 2007+ Coachbuilder Steering kits

I’ve had mine for 8 years now, aside from the misalignment spacer getting a slightly bent everything is like new.

I’ve been torquing them to about 50 ft lbs, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything official as far as torque spec. Any input, Dave? Thanks

 

8 years??! That’s awesome. What size tires are you running? I have 37s & was told before a recent tire alignment the tie rod ends need replacement (after 2.5 years).

 

90 ft lbs is your torque spec on the steering knuckle bolt

 

Just had my oil changed at the dealership and they noted the outer tie rods were covered in grease. I had my Coachbuilder Steering Kit installed just over 3 years ago. Attached are some pictures - Am I in need of a rebuild kit? @Coachbuilder1. I would assume if so to do both sides?

 

They’re greaseable so IMO them being covered isn’t necessarily bad esp after 3 years. Replacement depends on how much play they have not how much grease is on the outside. I’d say disconnect them and see how easily you can wiggle them around.

 

I have the Dirt King long travel kit installed and need to replace tie rods. I saw the option for Camburg and TC for their +2.5 kits. The Dirt King is +3 do I use their adapters and order the OEM length or do you offer one for the Dirt King kit

 

he has a kit for the DK LT kit too. Just give him a call and he'll send you an invoice for it.

 

When you have a min send over a PM with your shipping zip code and email address. I'll send you a invoice. thanks!

 

Updated the thread and have added our DK long travel kit.
Coachbuilder Long Travel Replacement Steering Kit (Dirt King- +3.154") – Shop Coachbuilder

 

Little over 6 years on mine and still loving them. My only issue I just noticed this weekend after feeling some slop (which I thought was my steering rack) is with the BDS steering knuckle and having to drill out the taper.

Despite religiously keeping them torqued and witness marked the hole appears to have become slightly larger and/or oblong-ed.

David are you aware of any spacers out there in the off-road world where I could potentially drill out the knuckle further and shim the bolts to keep them from moving? or other ideas

 

A hardened sleeve would be a great option. It sure doesn't happen very often but if the hole is out of round I'm happy to machine something like this.

 

@Coachbuilder1 David - I defer to your expertise on the sizing and how much larger the diameter of the knuckle should be for an adequate thickness of the sleeve but I'd definitely be interested in doing it.

 

I have a set of BDS knuckles and will be sure they're compatible. Thanks for letting me know. Feel free to follow up in a week or so.

 

how easy was it for you to feel the slop w/ the rod ends properly tightened? Did you just jack it up, and wiggling the tire was enough to notice the slop?

 

Great question since I’d been chasing a rattling feeling for a while which was one of my SPC ball joints deciding to give up the ghost and get me to pull everything apart.

The last time I greased the end links I unbolted them to really get the grease worked around the joint - It had been about 6 months since I did this and re-checked the torque on them and since the witness marks never moved I didn't think they had come loose.(They've never needed any additional torque when checked over 6 years)
The best way I found to accurately diagnose the real issue was with both wheels on the ground and someone in the truck, key to ON and slightly rock the steering wheel back and forth. Grab at the joint/knuckle to see if it moves - At first I thought it was the heim joint itself and ironically with the wheels off the ground it feels tight at the knuckle/joint and the slop feels like its coming from the inner tie rod.

The slop must have progressively gotten worse since the summer because after I re-greased and re-torqued everything I can’t believe how much tighter the steering it.

 

Cool thanks for the info. I'll take a look at mine next time I'm working on it.
I recently verified it's time to replace my steering rack bushings. NOT looking forward to that. Going to try to do it w/o dropping the diff...there's a thread on here about that. I have on again/off again steering wheel jitter at high speeds & I'm convinced it's the rack bushings after seeing how that thing moves around. Going with poly bushings.
Anyway - not to hijack the thread w/ this info...but might be good to check your bushings, too, if you haven't.

 

I'm all up in that thread - I did mine a while ago without dropping or disconnecting anything and those bushings are 1000x worth it.
You'll need to grind the lift bracket and the shoulders of one edge of the 2 bolts to get them to drop but it's not as bad as I thought it was going to be.
Shoot me a message if you have any questions.

 

Sweet, I appreciate it - thanks Ross! Good to know it's not as bad as you thought. Reading through that thread had me concerned.

Are you close to the bay? I love the fishing/crabbing out there.

 

Oh it's a pain in the ass but it's honestly not as bad as swapping the alternator in my opinion and I was really worried about the bolts not clearing the bracket but it's not much modification, I think I posted pics in that thread. 2 sets of hands, some sockets you don't mind beating up/breaking, and lot's of patience are a must.
I'm near the NC line in Chesapeake / Grassfield Area.

 

Aah ok, cool. We drove through there last spring on our way to Kiptopeke state park for the first time. Loooved it out there. First time I ever went crabbing & had a blast. Going to be picking up a peddle kayak at some point for fishing those concrete ships (& in the north part of the bay as well). Beautiful area you live in.

I'll be planning an entire weekend for changing out those bushings once it starts warming up. Have to pick up the bushings from David as well.