Tundara the Grayvestone build

There's really light contact on the front fenders and a lot of contact on the rear bedsides. I'm not long travel so the up travel isn't a lot and no I did not limit any up travel at all. I like my uptravel as much as I like my downtravel. It's just set the way it is with wheelers offroad superbump bumpstops up front and the rear has King's stubby bumpstops. Rears are cycled and bumpstops are set accordingly to a zone where my bedsides aren't fully eaten up.

I can tuck when I take it to that limit. Remember front wheels cambers in when get its full uptravel, so it does tuck and rubs up all the fenderliner. The rears however does not camber like the front so it chews the lip of the bedside, screws, hardwares, clips and whatever else is in the wheel well.

 

thanks for the info, I have thought about a lot of those points I just figured with such a aggressive negative offset there no way, but your proof
I have been pissed cause I was 17s and have been trying to stay in the positive offset range, options are limited. I don’t see any reason why a 0 offset could clear enough with some bumps installed. I have the 2.5 kings Extended travel ready to go just need to pull trigger on some wheels and tires.

 

Sick build! Did you have to replace the tc uca's for the heim joints or were you able to just swap the bushings out?

 

I swapped them out to get a bit more adjustments for alignment. It's a whole new set with the heim ends. Can't throw heims on a bushing end UCA.

 

Did you ever replace or fix your deaver leaf springs? Would you recommend them?

 

nice to see an update. what made you switch from KM3 to toyo MT ?

 

I did get a hold of someone from Deavers after emailing them, they sent out a new center pin for replacement. Fixed the issue and later on had posted them up for sale.

right now I am running their F85 AAL.

honestly an aftermarket leaf pack is always better than oem plus blocks and all that crap. There’s way more functionality and performance. Would I recommend them is entirely depending on what you plan on doing with the truck. Different setup/builds will cal for different types of leaf packs. Some might disagree or some won’t care.

i thought the U748 was for me, but I don’t really drive with all that weight in the bed, bed rack and an RTT so I ended up selling the Deaver U748. Put the stock packs on and enjoyed it that way. Weeks later I just did an AAL and right now it’s pretty much good so far for my trucks use and run until I go entirely bedcage SUA LT setup back there.

Thanks. The KM3 I had was a Load rating of D I believe... it was a really low ply tire and super soft. I didn’t like it because during my road trip along the PNW I was getting rubber dust along my bedside and fenders from the tires. This was not because of alignment issues, that was spot on before the road trip. Later to find out the load rating wasn’t enough and was just too soft, wore just a tad bit quicker, and the treads were getting beat up easily while wheeling. That’s why I went back to the Toyo MTs (plus the cost I get the for). Had I know what I was sold to me of the KM3 I would not have bought them. Now if I had a set or offered KM3 with Load rating F.... I’d probably used it until it was really worn out. Will I give it another try... maybe.

 

Thanks for the response. I’m building the rig for overlanding so will have 700-750+ lbs in the back when fully loaded. As far as build quality and holding weight overtime, I’m hoping these will hold up. Planning on going on trips 3-4 times per year. I also daily my truck as well as a family wagon