TRD rear sway bar

What's the difference in the TRD FSB vs the stock FSB?

 

I'm old school and not up on all the lingo. What does "NVH" stand for?

 

Thicker bar, more resistance to flex. Better road manners but reduced articulation off road.

 

I'm sure there are other experts here with a better answer, but I think the TRD FSB is solid steel whereas the stock one is not....and red too

 

Noise, Vibration, and Harshness.

 

Thanks! I would have never figured that out!

 

Anybody have any experience with the rear sway bar in deep sand?

 

we have had this on 2, soon to be 3rd Tundras. TRD RSB. Best thing ever

 

I do not but a rear sway bar should have no negative aspects in deep sand. If anything it would help keep the rear tires planted and hop less once it grabs any traction. The bar itself is higher than the bottom of the diff.

 

Great. I’ve seen some that hang a little lower than others. Is there play when installing?

 

Zero play in the height of the bar.

 

You can mount it like this too.

Lots of pics in this big thread, showing clearance.

 

You would either need a lift or shorter end links (or both) for that type of mounting.

 

No lift, just stock limited.

 

Does the truck in that image not have a shackle lift on it? Definitely has shorter end links and non-oem bushings in the springs.

Edit:

I see what you’re saying. With no lift you could likely make it work with some shorter end links and no other modifications.

 

I just don’t want it hanging lower than the the diff

 

Went ahead and ordered one. Can’t wait to feel the difference.

 

Any deals on them anywhere?

 

McGeorge ToyotA 218.50 no tax/shipping

 

That’s the best deal I found.

Sparks was just under 200 with the forum discount but around 225 shipped to me.

 

I watched a YouTube video recommending anti seize in the metal to metal interfaces during install. Toyota doesn’t recommend it. Is there consensus here in the use of anti seize? Use of road salt is minimal around here so I’m not as concerned about corrosion as some are.

 

For me, the center of the RSB sits just at the bottom of the rear diff. case on level ground with no bed load. The RSB arms are attached to the frame and the cross bar/bushings to the axle. The cross bar is shaped to clear the rear diff case and this "U-shaped" bend will pivot in the bushings and be pushed by the arms up above the bottom height of the rear diff. as the rear axle/leafs are extended. I'm not 100% certain as I haven't tested, but I don't think the axle/leafs will move upward enough for the arms to push the cross bar much below the rear diff. case (but I could be wrong). Check the picture above on post #101 from WGusler to see how much it moves up when the axle/leafs are 100% extended.

 

I don't see why it would hurt to use it, but like you I'm not too concerned here in the Carolina's...

 

Probably wouldn't hurt to use some anti-seize on the frame to end link connection. That being said, the torque spec will change when anti-seize is applied. Make sure you look up the "wet" torque spec for the fasteners you want to apply the anti-seize to.

 

Just ordered my TRD RSB from the Mcgeorge dealer link from page 3. $218 shipped.

 

Is it lubricant dependent?

 

It is (in theory). In all reality, you are going to have to REALLY be cranking on that frame to end link connection to mess something up. Part of the torque spec is to ensure the bushings are properly compressed each and every time one of these bars is installed regardless of who the installer is.

 

Good point on the wet torque. I’m probably just going to skip the anti-seize. I don’t have any in the garage and the bar gets delivered today

Ordered from McGeorge Monday and I’m getting it two days later with free shipping.

 

how did you get free shipping? They wanted an additional 40 for me...

 

@Charliebrn when you get to checkout page, use "FREESHIP" in the discount code part under the price.