TRD front sway bar concern

I have the 6112 set at 1.9”. 18x9 rims and 285/70r18 Ridge Grapplers.

 

Alright friends here is where I stand. Today I went to Lowe’s with the bolt and nut I removed from the frame. The bolt size was M12-1.25. I purchased a new bolt and nut because the threads on the bolt are ruined. I’ll order an OEM bolt later but for now I’ll use the bolt from Lowe’s.

I then jumped onto Amazon and found this $15 pack of rivnuts/rivet nuts which include M12’s (see photo). I’ve watched a YouTube video and installing it seems simple enough. Are you confident a carbon steel rivet nut can handle the strain and weight of a sway bar? I can still cut a hole in my frame and re-tack the new nut if it is a better solution. What are your honest opinions? I need to get this fixed ASAP, because I’m not driving my truck much until this is fixed.

 

Should work fine with no issues.

Same as driving the truck without the sway bar, fine with no issues.

 

Picked up a few extra Toyota specific bolts for reparing this tomorrow evening. In case anyone else needs the Toyota part #90119-A0192 and it is called Stabilizer Bar Screw.

Also broke 2 of the plastic grommets that allow you to screw the black factory skid to the truck, so ordered a few extra for good measure.

 

Yeah those plastic grommets are pieces of shit LOL. I bought a couple as well. I had one that was stripped from the factory. I bet the guys that change the oil break them all the time. That is if they actually change the oil and filter.

 

If I ever have to have work done I’m probably just going to remove the skid plate myself before I bring it in because of that. When I took it in for rotation I removed the center caps just so they didn’t beat them up for me.

 

Rivnut is not appropriate for your application, they are meant for sheet metal. I have experience with them, use them occasionally. They need the exact size hole for the application or it will not work. Additionally they do not have the shear strength required, doubt you will get it torqued without it spinning out, and will definitely spin out if you ever remove the bolt again. Just my opinion.

 

So what do you think a good option would be to fix it right? I was thinking maybe cutting a hole in the frame and having the nut welded back in place. Then also patching the frame back up. Obviously you have to get a welder involved if you don’t do that yourself. I was hoping there would be access for him with the bumper off.

 

Or maybe a small oval hole just large enough that the nut would slip in as well as a open end wrench to hold it.

 

Most just cut a hole and weld the nut back on. If it was my brand new truck, I would pull the plastic plug, chop up/fab a wrench to hold the nut and tighten. Put wrench somewhere safe for future use.

 

FIXED: After spending some time thinking this through further and learning more about the truck by looking at it. I noticed an oval plastic part on the frame, above the sway bar. See my first photo. This is actually a plastic frame plug that is removable, unfortunately I cracked it while removing it. See photo 2 for the hole already present in the frame behind the plug. This gave me partial access to where the rear most nut would sit. As noted in a earlier post, I purchased a new Toyota bolt but they don’t sell the nut so I found one at Lowe’s.

The hole doesn’t give you direct access, it’s close, so still is a pain. I started to install the bolt by threading the bolt by hand, placed my finger inside the frame and placed 2 washers and the bolt directly over the bolt and held it while I hand tightened. Once the bolt was 90% threaded into the nut it started to spin and I was at a loss/pissed. I then took my jack and placed it under my sway bar to lift the sway bar against my truck frame as if it was fully bolted and tightened. I then used a thick flat head screw driver and wedged it into the frame hole with pressure holding it against the nut inside the frame (not easy). Took a dozen or so tries but that put enough pressure on the nut so that I could tighten up the bolt. That stucked but it’s fixed now!

Does anyone want to donate a new plastic frame plug replacement to me since I broke this one? Where can I get a new one?

 

I have nothing to contribute on the subject...BUT...that is a badass lookin' truck!

 

Thanks Ron! @Roman can I order 2 of these from you Sir? Thank you!

 

It could be one of a couple of hole plugs. Unfortunately, Toyota does not tell me where the hole plugs go, and only gives this diagram to pick out which hole plug it could be. Measurements are in mm.

 

One more post here. The plastic frame plug that I broke is a special order Toyota part and costs $3.07. The part is used on Tundra, Sequoia and Tacoma frames. It has a #4 on the front of the plate. Hope my failures will help others some day.

Part #90950-01987

 

Thanks Roman. Found it after doing some digging online. See my last post!

 

What size is that nut? my bolt is messed up and i need to get out the nut first.

Thanks

 

Junping on this guys, any information is appreciated, i have a 2020 tundra sport, ive recently put 5100s all around and Camberg UCAs,i have just bought 18” Method 308 roosts which have a +18 offset, but i want to try and run as big a tyre as i can which i think will be 33s at 11.50, problem is the standard factory 20s Since the install are already rubbing the sway bar at full lock!