Transmission Plug Stripped / Pan Replacement

What are the chances of going through all this work to tap to a larger size, only to then have the next plug threads strip again anyway?

I tried the pull-and-turn method as well, it did nothing but mess up the plug's surface a bit.

 

I'd say if you're careful, it's unlikely. But, if you're not confident you get get rid of any shavings by greasing the tap and flushing it out with a fill/drain then replace the pan.

 

If you do it correctly, it will be as good as new and you will not have any issues.

I can't stress this enough, but if you do proceed with it, run the tap 3/4 turn, back it out, run it back in another 3/4, back it out and repeat till you have the tap all the way through. Go slow.

 

I've decided to drop and replace the pan myself. The truck has been garaged until today, I pop in to check on it and am greeted with a puddle of trans fluid on the floor. Very very slow dripping leak from the janked up trans plug.

Got all the parts from the dealer except the dipstick tube o-ring. Oversight on my part, I forgot to order it too. Hopefully I can just reuse the existing o-ring.

@FirstGenVol can you send me that great tutorial you have? I've found a couple on YouTube but none of them use FIPG and instead use a rubber gasket.


Fortunately at this point I have removed all 20 little trans pan bolts without any of them breaking. Does anyone have a recommended method for removing the pan while it's full of fluid? It's still glued on there right now. I want to avoid that face full of ATF.

 

I mentioned in a previous post that tutorial is now not a safe website anymore according to Google chrome. You can Google A340F transmission pan replacement and it pulls up. Website is Skjos.net

Once you remove the bolts, the pan will be held in place by the old FIPG. You'll need to use a thin plastic scraper or similar tool and carefully break the old seal. Work you way around and gently tap it in. Be careful as the metal used for the transmission is actually pretty soft and can't be scarred fairly easily apparently.

Actually, now that I think about it, I bought this and it was great.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Tra...over-Removal-Pan-Separator-Tool-/174310063759

 

Thanks for that, I have added it to my "How To" folder.
Also printed the page via browser to a Microsoft pdf file if any one needs it....Helluva tutorial.

 

I’d have an open drain pan below it in case it spills out and several blocks of wood to support the 12-15 lbs of fluid from underneath in the drain pan.

The next step is essentially playing jenga by removing those blocks and letting the pan to partially spill out into the bucket from one side.

 

Suck it out thru the dip stick hole

 

Yeah it doesn't get much better than that for a "how to". He was very thorough. Even a mangler like me was able to do this job without damaging anything else.

 

Drill or punch a hole in the pan if you have a replacement already.

 

That's what I was thinking. Very small single hole.

 

I ended up drilling a hole through the stuck plug itself. It's a small hole so it's only a drip coming out, but it's an active drip so I've put a jug under it and let it sit overnight. It's dripping about 0.25qt/hr. It should be fully drained by now.

I didn't want to drill through the pan surface for fear of hitting the trans on the other side or jacking something up in the process (metal shavings, etc). It's probably an unnecessary fear but drilling through the plug itself worked out fine.

Fun fact, when I was drilling through the plug I smeared it with axle grease from my leaking axle boot to catch shavings!

 

@DarkMint

Do you have an inch lb torque wrench for this job?

Also, I would plan on snugging all the valve body bolts you'll see once you open it up. I only had a few loose though. That tutorial that Bubba posted should help a lot.

 

Yes, I have an in/lb torque wrench I'll be using for the little pan bolts.
I'll check out the valve body bolts once it's open, thanks for the reminder, I checked out that guide and I agree it's pretty great (nice touch with moving the sway bar outta the way).

 

That guy was working on a 4Runner. I'm pretty sure I didn't need to move the sway bar.

 

I didn't have to, but it does give me a bit more room to work with the trans pan bolts. I'll post a pic when I get the chance.

 

Pics of the hole drilled into drain plug, old fluid that dropped out, and sway bar moved out of the way with the end links resting on the power steering tie rods. Not sure if that is OK on the tie rods but I'm not driving it like this, just resting it for now. (I hope I'm using "tie rods" correctly.)
The old fluid is nasty and very dark, almost black. Looks like my 1st drain and fill didn't help it much. Expecting this 2nd time to help esp with dropping the pan.

Actually removing the pan glued on there is proving to be the hardest part... I can't make it budge even with the 19 pan bolts removed. And while I don't care about damaging the pan itself since I'm replacing it, I don't want to damage the trans surface. So I'm trying to be careful. As of now the pan is still stuck on there, and I'm brainstorming a safe and better way to remove it VS just prying it off.

 

@DarkMint I wonder if you can heat that gasket stuff with a propane or mapp gas torch to soften it and peel it away?

I’d be careful though, I believe tranny fluid vapors are combustible from what I read.

 

Use some heat, gently, torch the edge going around all of the circumference

 

I wouldn’t be torching around my trans pan. A thin scraper will get through the gasket material. I wouldn’t use a screwdriver. I used a 2” putty knife to run between my pan and trans housing. Didn’t try to scrape the surfaces, just used it to cut through the RTV. My pan appeared to have been off before and had some pry marks and bending on the flange. Had to use some wooden blocks and a hammer to straighten it out. That fluid looks like ink

 

The only scraper I’ll ever buy, I only use the one end, but imagine all the possibilities.

$18 Husky 14-in-1 Painter's Tool

https://www.amazon.com/Husky-DSX-G1...t=&hvlocphy=9030244&hvtargid=pla-362397907364

 

That one is legit. Great for pulling wooden trim pieces

 

Until last year I had no clue what the crescent shape was for……..
I like them because they seem to hold up well if your hitting the handle end with a hammer. We have gaskets on heat exchangers that are 1/8” thick and don’t like to peel off the best, so these work perfect. I also used these a lot hanging stainless wall liner to clear out the center clip track/reveal.

 

Yeah I'll be going the @FirstGenVol route. I didn't want to have to buy another specialized tool but I don't feel comfortable using a steel scraper or putty knife. I'm afraid of marring the surfaces.
My plastic putty knife just ain't cutting it.

I also have zero confidence using a torch to heat it up haha.

 

Get a rubber mallet and beat that fucker like it owes you money. It'll come off.

 

How soon is your big road trip? I'll be glad to give you my tool I linked. I hope to never need it again.

 

Being a Timmy the Toolman kinda guy, he mentions a pan separation tool at the 8:30 mark. Perhaps they're not expensive or they might even rent at AutoZone, NAPA, etc. With that tool you could do what @bmf4069 said and "beat that fucker like it owes you money."

 

That's exactly what I'm offering to give him. But I remember he was pressed for time so might be able to find one locally.

 

I ended up buying the tool with expedited shipping, should come by tomorrow. @FirstGenVol I appreciate your generosity nonetheless.

@bmf4069 I tried the rubber mallet thing, beat the sh*t out of it and it still won't move haha.