Transmission Cooler Bracket

Sounds like it's time to take some measurements.

 

After some adjustments and test fitting this is what I ended up with for the Sequoias.

Once I get a batch cut I’ll post them on. Sequoia forum and eBay.

 

Looks good, Please send me a message.

I now see the advantage of your mount. It uses the effective but much cheaper Hayden cooler. What is the consensus of direct attachments vs the use of fittings.

Pman did a great thing sharing his design but I wonder if the Setrab is over kill for me.

 

I’ll send you a message - here’s my theory.

The OEM transmission thermostat opens around 185 degrees. Once it’s open, I want the thermostat to stay open and not cycling with an oversized cooler. If the temperature stays within a reasonable number of degrees from the 185 degrees when the thermostat opens I’m happy with that.

Everyone's situation is different such as rock crawling, towing campers, boats, trailers, city stop-and-go traffic, etc.

I think for the bulk of the people, the Hayden is more than sufficient being that the core is larger in size than the coolers that came on the earlier models.

I did base the brackets off the Hayden for the cost reason as well as the rated GVWR from Hayden.

 

I’m not selling my bracket, so it makes no difference to me. The Hayden setup is proven to work and it works very well. However in the spirit of sharing information, just a couple things to keep in mind and my thinking on why I went with the 920.

1) The thermostat for the Trans, like a coolant t-stat is not a binary “open” or “closed”. It starts opening around 185 and fully opens around 195. I maybe off slightly on numbers, but that’s the ballpark.

2) The ATF still goes through the heat exchanger when the t-stat is not fully open. So it’s heating and cooling the fluid. I believe this is why those with coolers never see pan temps above 208ish. (As far as I know)

3)None of the aftermarket cooler setups have shrouds to direct air, so it’s less efficient than the OEM setup from the early trucks.

4) I purposely chose an overkill cooler, because overkill is best kind of kill and Toyota also does a fair bit of overkill, hence the reliability. Setrab has a lengthy reputation in all kinds of motorsports and is an OEM for some manufacturers. Other than weight and cost there is no penalty for too much cooler. Same reason you can’t have too large of a radiator, only too small.

As I said before, I don’t sell these and it makes no difference to me which route anyone chooses. I just like cars and want to share knowledge as much as possible so people can make informed decisions.

 

I don’t think anyone disagrees that hands-down, the Setrab 20 row cooler provides exceptionally cooling. It’s probably the highest efficient cooler to be mounted on a Tundra. Luckily for those that want to invest the funds in the Setrab setup and DIY a kit like many on this forum pman9003 has done the work of designing a mounting bracket and shared the file.

It really boils down to the use of your vehicle and how much you’re willing to spend on the project. Also, it’s seems that many on the forum with this generation truck plan to keep it long term and want to do what we can for longevity.