Transfer case service time

73fixer
Can you tell me if the computer has to be flashed if a new actuator for the transfer case is put in place?

 

Well I pulled the transfer out started disassembling and found the output shaft has little craters in it where the roller bearing rides on the shaft inside the planetary gears. It’s been making noise since I bought it 8 years ago. It only made noise when off road on a steep climb in low range. I thought that was abnormal. After we made our first trip with our RV last month it really started making noise, I guess because of the extra weight I was pulling. So I went to Toyota and purchased all the bearings and seals. Yesterday I returned all the bearings/seals and made a purchase for a brand new transfer case OUCH! One year warranty unlimited mileage. I felt it is cheaper than buying another pickup. This one is in good shape, it run good pulls good. The transfer case comes with a new computer. I said to myself why? I’m still trying to figure that out, no harm no foul. Can anyone tell me where the computer is in my 2010 Tundra? The T case won’t be here until next Friday. My two Brothers have tundras and their Tundras never made noise and we travel the same grade in low range. Something was wrong with my T case from the beginning. My Tundra had 8,900 miles on it when I bought it. I dropped the ball and didn’t have it checked out because I had 8 months left on the warranty when I bought it. I kept forgetting about it. It is what it is. Thanking you in advance,
Anthony C

 

Don't have an answer for your question but since the actuator is simply an off/on device I would see no reason anything would need to be flashed.

 

This is what I'm thinking about the new T case and computer setup. The actuator and T case are updated from the 2nd generation. The new actuator needs the new computer to respond, other wise it will not see the signal from the old computer. Technology has taken over just about everything today. But in my personal opinion, leave the gear shifting stick in the floor for the T case. I will post what I have received whether its a new style T case or not. I have to find the computer, I'm not turning the key until it is replaced. Thank you to all involved.
Anthony C

 

I tried to upload a few photographs. I believe I've found the computer. Passenger side firewall. I also uploaded two photographs of the shaft and planetary gear set

 

The planetary set alone is $2,500. The new case and computer is $3,000. One year unlimited miles. I just saved 57,000 for a new pickup, if the price stopped there!

 

Happy Father's Day to all it applies to.
Anthony C

 

737fixer,
I found out where the computer is for the transfer case actuator. Remove the glove box and the panel below it. Close to the firewall and right front wheel well is where it sits. One bolt holds it in place, a 10MM socket takes it out.
Thank you for your time and reply.

Anthony C

 

This is what the computer for the transfer case actuator looks like

 

Just to echo what others have said, 2014 - 2021 use Borg Warner transfer cases. I just had my '15 down and apart. Apparently the actuator is very different, and easy to service, compared to the prior gen. It's also quite a bit lighter than before! And the plugs are scary loose. And the OEM Toyota 75W lubricant comes in curious metal 1qt cans at $80 a quart retail. (you can get them cheaper below...)

I found new cases at Discount Toyota Parts (a legit online dealer in Tx that doesn't charge retail) for $2300. That's before shipping and tax of course. If you know what you're doing you could save quite a few hundred through an online dealer like this. I've bought a number of parts from here at significant discount.

 

This is a good tread that will answer the age old question over 75W for the transfer case. Thanks to captrussia253 from 4runners.com. )

https://www.4runners.com/threads/would-you-use-this-instead-of-the-70-toyota-fluid.12858/

 

I believe whatever we use change it at the 30,000 intervals or sooner. These T cases only hold 34 ounces. I believe that’s the key to success to longevity. Especially if we’re towing RV’s

 

I ALWAYS worry at the dealership. Did the hungover and high kid with 3 months experience do it or the master tech? Who knows for sure but I'm sure the good techs are doing more challenging work.

 

Thanks for posting the link !

I've been telling people that running 75w90 is fine and that running 5w30 in their engine is fine too , most people are so scared to stray away from what the owners manual says and will argue to the death

 

The fact that Toyota dealerships don't use what the manual recommends is telling.

But we know that dealerships do shady things at times. Having to somehow open two metal 1qt cans that you can't just attach a hose to from a 50 gallon tank of the "normal" stuff means it will take longer. And you won't use the full 2qts, so you then have to dispose of the perfectly good liquid gold (or pour it somewhere to save for later). Overall it takes more time, and the techs get paid per completed TICKET, not per hour. So I could see them taking this short cut to save time.

Or it could just mean they know better than Borg Warner does. When researching this for my '15, I found a post from someone who reached out to Borg Warner, and Born Warner said they recommend using the 75W fluid. (If I can find that link, I'll post it here.)

Personally, for a $2500 item, I'm going with the 75W fluid, even if I had to pay retail for it. 30,000 miles is a long time...

 

Here's another thread talking about it.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/transfer-case-oil-for-borg-warner.56170/

I'm sticking to the liquid gold.

 

Yep. the dealerships using 75w90 instead of just 75w is all i need to know as far as why I used the genuine liquid gold. I guarantee, like you stated, that they use the 75w90 because it's more convienient and saves time so they can get through more vehicles. I just poured my remaining like 0.4-0.5 liters into a cleaned out amsoil severe gear qt bottle and will use it next time. I got the toyota 75w from sparks parts for 68 a piece with free shipping so $136 every 30k miles is a no brainer IMO to ensure I get a long life out of the TC.

 

Each to their own , Has there been any documented transfer case failures due to using 75w90 ?

 

Also, as mentioned in that link, and I confirmed with my maintenance guide, a change at 30k is recommended when under "special operating conditions", ie, heavy towing or offroading. Otherwise it's 90k miles.

 

Yes I read that link about changing the T case oil every 30,000 miles. I made up my mind that the T case oil is being changed every other motor oil change which is about 12 to 15 thousand miles being I’m towing the RV now. I’m also switching to the 5W20 motor oil. The 5-20 still has a very good shear point, but it also has a little more body to it at operating temperatures. It will also take a little longer to be filtered. On cold startups at 65° most of the oil is bypassing the oil filter, once it reaches operating temperature almost all the oil is being filtered at an idle. If you live in an environment that very rarely goes below 30° 10W30 even 10W40 is OK. I live in Virginia Beach, VA and it does make it to the teens once in a great while. For the most part the winter months the average temperatures are 25° to 30° degrees in the early mornings then climbs to the high 30’s during the day.
Thank you for sharing.

 

I live in southern Arizona.

In the cold months it'll dip below 30 on occasion, but almost always warms up well above freezing during the day.

In warm months it can easily be 110 degrees ambient, and it's a whole lot hotter than that on the interstate.

I was very surprised to see the manual recommending/requiring 0W-20 oil. (I know why now ... all about that MPG stuff.) I asked my Toyota master mechanic family member if I should use something higher, as, wow, 0W-20 isn't very thick when it's 110 out?

He insists sticking with what the manual says. So... I'm not going to second guess him or Toyota.

But I'm still using Amsoil.

 

Not specific to the transfer case but over the years with many Toyota 4WD's I've found dealerships don't actually change the front diff fluid. Why? Because it's such a monumental PITA. Those 10mm Allen plugs are notorious for rounding across all Toyota 4WD models and all Toyota 4WD's use the same ridiculous 10mm Allen plugs. What I've found buying used is I'm lucky if only the drain plug is rounded out.

So, if you DIY the front diff fluid change, bust the fill plug out first using a quality 10mm Allen socket. Then, you can dick around trying to get the 10mm Allen drain plug out without rounding, but better to leave it in place.

Then use a transfer pump to draw the old fluid out via the fill plug, I've found you get 90% out. Then pump the new fluid in.

Before you swap front diff fluid get Lexus 14mm hex plugs to replace those goofy 10mm Allens. PN's provided here A Front Diff Drain (and Fill) Plug that Doesn’t Suck – ADVENTURETACO

I recommend 6-point sockets removing the 24mm plugs on the rear diff and transfer case. 12-pt sockets tend to round the plugs.

 

Thank you for your in put. I use nothing but Snap On tools, I started turning wrenches on the big trucks, heavy equipment, and everything else you can think of since 1971. I know exactly what you’re talking about. Thank you again,
Anthony C

 

I agree 5W20 has less VIIs but with your statement about 5w20 having, "...more body to it at operating temperatures." - I can not remember seeing a 0W20 and 5W20 from the same product line where the HTHS was different for the two grades? Even the differences between different oil products is tiny when comparing any 20-grade oils.

 

Agreed , 0w20 should be the same viscosity as a 5w20 at 150 to 200 degree engine operating temps

 

Good morning to all. Well put the new transfer in, and I still have a bearing noise! I’m going to send Blackstone Laboratories an oil sample from the rear differential. I drain the rear differential a year and a half ago and I found it to be contaminated with water because it was the color of cardboard. Tan like a spark plug. When I drained the transfer case a month ago I found flakes of aluminum. That’s what steered me to the transfer case immediately. I had forgotten about the rear differential altogether. Surprise surprise surprise. I am a little bummed out. I never drained and refilled the transfer case until last month. The light went on after thinking about it the, family that owned this Tundra had a boat, now I realize where the water came from. I will pass on my findings. Thank you to everyone who shared their thoughts. To all have a good week.
Anthony C

 

Did anyone use thread sealant on their TC plugs? Like permatex high temp thread sealant?

 

I used a little Teflon tape with the washer.

 

Hey that’s me and now I’m on here haha.

Found this after doing some research on changing the TC fluid on my “new” tundra (I used 75w90….)