Traction Control - Everything You Want to Know

I should’ve read this before going on my first ever off road trip. Took a nice ride to Mono Lake in Central Cali and got myself stuck in a small creek. From my understanding it would’ve helped to keep the car in normal mode no “Auto LSD” light or “Traction off” light on the dash. Btw it’s 100% 2007 Tundra 2WD the biggest upgrade on it is the A/T tires and Bam Muffler on them. Thank you very much for this incredibly helpful post definitely doing what everyone is saying and keeping a copy of the chart in my truck

 

Folks I tried to get all of this great info into and summarize it in one document so we can print it out and keep it in truck. Please let me know if I missed anything.

link to doc on google drive -

https://docs.google.com/document/d/...ouid=118253069347740492478&rtpof=true&sd=true

 

Brilliant!

Great idea putting it into something portable.

 

What year of Tundras did they start adding A-trac in? I have a 2014 but I've always wondered if my older 3rd gen had it.

 

Iirc since 2007. If you obviously have 4x4 I think.

 

Anyone know if this works the same in gen 3 tundras?

 

The 3rd gen might do the same but a lot of more advance in certain things I am sure.. why dont you ask this question on the 3rd gen forums.. or search online I am sure there is info on this on the interwebs.. or even gasp..youtube..

 

I have exhausted those options...no one talks about it or seems to know. Toyota is not very clear on it either in the owners manual or website.

 

The gen 3 is totally different, especially depending on what trim level you get. It functions a lot more like the 4Runner or Tacoma with MTS and rear locker and stuff.

Maybe @LKTundra and I need to go out in a 3rd gen and put it all on paper.

 

Most definitely! The MTS functionality is the same thinking as the 4runner and Tacoma with decreasing levels of slip or heightened thresholds for system engagement. Locker is available only in 4lo and should only be used as needed. The frequency of the brake system has been increased so its smoother and quieter much like the difference from 07-17 trucks to 18-21 due to the system change. It's really a nice suite of tools! I'm just sad you can't get a platinum TRD offroad...

 

Thank you, this write up is incredible. Given all this info, what would be ideal for family camper trip towing?

Losing power with TRAC sounds counterintuitive, especially when you need all the power you can get towing. But LSD on the rear wheels seems smart for safety.

Should I go with a 1 push to disable TRAC and run LSD? Is this ok for towing hundreds of miles?

 

I would NOT tow w/LSD on...

Leave your nannies on and tow away

 

I'd only do that if it's slippery where you're towing.

 

Perhaps you are misunderstanding how or when TRAC cuts power. TRAC allows you to use ALL THE BEANS - whether towing or not - so long as you don't exceed the traction limits of your tires. So you can put the pedal to the floor and ask for all the herspers and terqs and TRAC won't interfere one bit, so long as you don't spin the tires. Spinning your tires lets the herspers and terqs escape the coral, jump the fence, and wander off in to the wild blue yonder, which does you no good; TRAC simply keeps them contained to where you can use them.

From a physics standpoint, Mu (Greek letter Mu, for which we will simply use 'u') stands for the coefficient of friction; (u)Kinetic is always less than (u)Static. In terms of friction, that simply says that the friction between two surfaces is always greater when those surfaces are static in relation to each, than if one surface was moving in relation to the other. Imagine trying to push a cardboard box filled with junk across the floor; it takes more effort to overcome the friction between the box and floor when they are both stationary (not moving) than if the box was already sliding across the floor. Once you get the box sliding, it requires less effort to keep it sliding than it did to break the initial friction between them.

Why did I introduce that gibberish physics standpoint? Because your tires want to maintain static friction with the ground. They are rolling and the vehicle is moving in relation to the ground, but the tires contacting the ground is Static (unless spinning the tires). TRAC knows that it can deliver more power to a wheel that is in a state of static friction than a wheel that is spinning, or moving in relation to the ground, so it will limit the power delivered to the tires only if they are spinning.

The best setting when towing is simply to leave everything to Default. You will get the best traction possible in most situations with the most stable handling. There are, however, a few situations where you would want to use ALSD or other traction modes TEMPORARILY while towing. When the roads are patchy snowy/icy, or you are in a wet, grassy field or slick topsoil (or at the boat launch in a 2wd vehicle), I would temporarily use ALSD if in 2wd JUST TO GET MOVING. I do this all the time, even with a mechanical Auburn LSD when the neighborhood or back roads aren't well plowed but the main roads are fine. I also try ALSD when the I'm too lazy to stop and wait for 4wd to engage just to drive a few yards to where I would disengage 4wd. I use it in conjunction with the auburn to enable a little more wheelspin; it also enhances the aggressiveness of the Auburn.

The other 4wd options should only be used on a temporary basis when slogging through unfavorable conditions where, as the OP mentioned, you know/think you might get stuck or have seen someone else get stuck. Else, there is little reason to change the traction mode for towing. The manual says that you should not engage ALSD for long periods of time. Hopefully that helps.

@KevinK Did a great job outlining the different modes, BTW.

 

Appreciate that insight for towing. Thanks everyone!