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Tire/wheel size and offset 2002 Tundra

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by tlkelley70, Aug 17, 2020.

  1. Aug 17, 2020 at 11:49 AM
    #1
    tlkelley70

    tlkelley70 [OP] New Member

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    I know these come up all the time but I have searched and I cannot find anything that addresses this combination exactly.

    I have bilstein 5100s set to level the front end with the back (in fact I think its about a 1/2 higher unfortunately). Wheels are stock and tires are 265/75/16 today. Fenders are rusting out and I have decided on flares as what I want to correct this. I may paint to match, not sure yet will see what it looks like installed with new wheels and tires. I want to fit new custom wheels and tires under it that are similar to BFG T/A KO2 and have the wheels pretty much flat with the flares (not sunken or extending past). Flares I am looking to get are Bushwacker 30902-02 as frankly I dont see others available in my searches, although limited searches so far.

    I am expecting to potentially need an additional lift and thats where I havent been able to find anything specific to this. I have seen the general thread that shows from 0-3" lift what tires you can fit. I was guessing I would need to put a body lift on too but unsure how much to achieve what I want as I am not looking to have this enough I could enter a monster truck contest. I am not near as into all of this as I was 15+ years ago before work and kids got in the way and not much of a wing it kinda guy as all this will cost me. I am hoping to lean on those more knowledgeable than I to help me decide what size tires, wheeels, and offset I need to achieve what I want with little to no risk of rubbing. I have had this truck for a long time and intend to keep it longer so I would appreciate any help you can provide.

    Thanks in advance.
     
    Darkness likes this.
  2. Aug 17, 2020 at 2:38 PM
    #2
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    If you leveled your 2002 truck with 5100 Billies on Stock Coils, then you may be causing yourself problems as Billy doesn’t recco going higher than the second perch on the 02 AC.

    You’ll need new coils and high dolla shocks. Someone will come along and make some reccos.
     
    revtune likes this.
  3. Aug 17, 2020 at 2:40 PM
    #3
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Those Bushwacker flares seem like a really nice option if they are the same ones I’ve seen others here put on after they’ve painted them.
     
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  4. Aug 17, 2020 at 2:41 PM
    #4
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    285/75/r16 is about the biggest you can go on the 2002. A sweet size BTW.
     
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  5. Aug 17, 2020 at 3:45 PM
    #5
    revtune

    revtune New Member

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    2002 Tundra: JBA short tube headers Stock air intake Ome front lift Spc upper control arms Energy steering rack bushings Wheelers front sway bar bushings Wheelers sway bar end link bushings 2.5 inch catback Dynomax 17748 muffler OME center support driveshaft spacer 4.30 gears 17x9 Mickey Thompson III wheels p285/70/17 falken at3w 03-06 facelift 05-06 headlights Weathertech floor liners Double cab tundra center console Driver seat from a 2005 tundra 2006 Tundra: Stock air intake 3 inch catback Magnaflow 13742 2.5 inch front lift 1.5 inch rear blocks 2014 sr5 4Runner wheels (17x7) 1.5 inch hub centric wheel spacers p285/70/17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 Weathertech floor liners
    BFG KO2 is pretty damn aggressive. @Professional Hand Model is running Michelin, which give a nice quiet ride. Very good tires. I’ve got experience running different AT tires. IMO, I can tell you right now, if you get something like the KO2, at3w or duratrac it will stiffen the ride quite a bit and bog your truck down. Not to mention, those kinds of tires are damn heavy. With that being said, if you go 285/75/16 or the 17 inch variant, I would not even look at tires that are on the cusp of mud tires. If you go 265/75/16 I still wouldn’t go to nuts on the tread, something in the copper or hankook variety if you’re on a budget.
     
  6. Aug 17, 2020 at 3:47 PM
    #6
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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  7. Aug 17, 2020 at 4:16 PM
    #7
    Dog

    Dog sit!

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    Rocky Mountain high...
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    Just say No to body lifts...
     
  8. Aug 17, 2020 at 7:52 PM
    #8
    tlkelley70

    tlkelley70 [OP] New Member

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    Just say no body lifts...lol. I'm just trying to get the tundra high enough that no matter the compression, which will rarely if ever happen I won't rub AND tires be flush with flares.

    Also think AAL may be best for the back to help with bed load? It squats pretty bad from the factory under any load.

    I will evaluate tires again. I have 265/75/16 (I think, it's late) on stock rims with just the Bilsteins and no flares and looks good. I love the OG BFG T/A KO....think 2010 age ...best tires I ever owned...maybe I got lucky and honestly I like the stiff riding tires....battle wagon.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2020
  9. Aug 17, 2020 at 8:32 PM
    #9
    MNtundra

    MNtundra New Member

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    Take all the wisdom you gave OP for 16” stock wheels and repeat it for the limitations of 17” 4Runner wheels. What’s the biggest tire size with a A/T I can run without doing trimming or pinch weld? Thinking of 275/70/17?

    Here is a pic of the wheels I will be wearing being modeled on my Twins Tundra.

    476D0449-C480-457F-B857-EE3FBCBA892E.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2020
  10. Aug 18, 2020 at 4:06 AM
    #10
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    I'll second that. Had hankook atm before the cooper discoverys I have now. Both were/are good.

    20190301_174616.jpg
     
  11. Aug 18, 2020 at 6:13 AM
    #11
    KNABORES

    KNABORES New Member

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    Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Westin bull bar with 20" LED Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers trim and tool box
    To answer the original question, you'll need less offset or a wider wheel if you to be flush with the Bushwacker fenders. Factory wheels are 7" wide usually, if the new aftermarket are 9" wide with the factory offset, voila, you have 2" of additional wheel sticking out. Keeping the same wheel size and adding a spacer will also push the wheel out by effectively lowering the offset. The offset needed will change depending on wheel width. Imagine the images below where the rear offset doesn't change but the wheel gets wider. That extra width will be added to the outside edge so to speak. You may need to install the flares, then measure the distance to the new desired tire location from the current tire location within the wheel well. As far as the additional lift goes, The less offset you have, or truly the more wheel you have extending out away from the hub, the more clearance you'll need. So the two will be increasing together. Not a fan of the function of a body lift beyond an inch or so, which would be custom fab as only 3" body lifts are readily available. You'll be limited to 32-33" tires with some rubbing depending on wheel and tire combination with the coil only type lifts. Especially with a wider wheel with less offset to fill the fender flares out. Keeping the offset close to factory and keeping the wheel width at 8" will help with tire clearance, but may not sit flush with the new fender flares. I have 2.5" of lift in the front of my truck with an 8" wide rim, factory offset with 1.25" spacers added to get flush with the factory TRD fenders. could honestly move an inch back into the wheel well and still be close to the edge of the flares. I have 265/75/16 Hankook ATM tires that rubbed the fender liner at the mud flap until i trimmed it. 285's would never fit with this setup. I could likely remove the wheel spacer and the 285's could clear better. But then they wouldn't be as close to the edge of the flares. Gonna be some trade off. Or you'll need a real lift kit like an RCD. Or you'll need some fresh sawzall blades, some bondo, some cahones and some spray paint to clear the tires without the real lift. Or you can run the 3" body lift and not care what the haters say about it and live with the drawbacks of the body lift. As far as towing, safer to tow with a body lift than a suspension lift. Change my mind.

    offset.jpg
     
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  12. Sep 13, 2020 at 12:50 PM
    #12
    tlkelley70

    tlkelley70 [OP] New Member

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    I know its been a while since i responded, things got hectic but finally getting back to this project. flares have arrived, paint ordered. I have found several pics on the internet that I like, but larger rims than what you and basically most if not all thread I have ever read said. Virtually every site references 17" as biggest for my 1st gen but these are 18 and 20" and according to the site, they either dont rub or rub slight on 1st gen and are on leveling kits (which I think just means what I have listed above as front is raised to be level with the back end). What am I missing when they say these fit? I have decided I do not want 16's, I definately want more rim but dont want squatty racing tire look either (nothing wrong with it, just not my thing). I decided to only leave the leveling kit for now and accept as close to flush as I can get. Planning to order wheels and tires this week, need to get this behind me and onto the next project/fire!

    Here are the links:

    https://www.customwheeloffset.com/w...ta-tundra-hostile-alpha-bilstein-leveling-kit

    https://www.customwheeloffset.com/w...ndra-ballistic-guillotine-custom-leveling-kit

    https://www.customwheeloffset.com/w...g-block-american-made-suspension-leveling-kit

    https://www.customwheeloffset.com/w...undra-fuel-maverick-d610-fabtech-leveling-kit
     
  13. Sep 13, 2020 at 2:45 PM
    #13
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    Actually thats 1" of additional tire sticking out. Offset, and this is why I never use offset to measure, is how far the mounting point is from the center. Add 2" of width and the difference is split.

    Backspacing is way easier to measure on since it stays the same regardless of wheel width.

    @tlkelley70 I would stick with your plan of 17s and go no bigger. 17s have more size options for tires than 16s these days, and going 18 or bigger just means less sidewall, rougher ride, and higher priced tires.

    The problem you will face is as your tires go farther outward, you will start hitting the body when you turn and suspension compresses. Not sure how wide the flares are but when I had 16x9"wide wheels with 4.5 backspace and 285/75 tires I bounced off the pinch welds daily until I cut them out. If you are fine with getting a big hammer out and doing some metal manipulating you may be okay but hard to know what wheel spec you need without knowing the flares.
     

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