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Timing Chain convince me otherwise.

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by Rebel Tundra Man, Nov 2, 2020.

  1. Dec 23, 2020 at 7:16 AM
    #61
    Twintowers11

    Twintowers11 New Member

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    Is there only one instance where all the timing marks and plates line up?
     
  2. Jan 4, 2021 at 3:45 AM
    #62
    Rebel Tundra Man

    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] New Member

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    Just a little update for everyone on the noise issue, my service engine light finally came on for an oil change, so I dropped about 8oz of seafoam into the oil fill cap and have drove it for about 3 days now. I plan to change the oil this afternoon either way, but the chain tensioner noises are still there, and have not quietened down any at all. so the seafoam is a bust for anyone that wants to know. I will report back in a few days after the oil change to see if anything has changed or not but I dont forsee it happening.
     
  3. Jan 4, 2021 at 5:02 AM
    #63
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Sorry to hear that Seafoam didn't provide any instant relief for you, but I anticipated this outcome (see quote above). It was worth a try.

    Maybe there's a chance you will still see improvement with the fresh oil, but this is likely a mechanical problem with the chain tensioner which will not be resolved by oil or additive. I would run the new oil change interval if there's plenty of time on the warranty. If the problem is still persisting, schedule repair while your warranty is in effect.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2021
  4. Jan 4, 2021 at 7:00 AM
    #64
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy New Member

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    Give the Seafoam longer to do its thing. How much driving did you do in three days?
     
  5. Jan 4, 2021 at 6:52 PM
    #65
    NateG

    NateG New Member

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    You’ve got the warranty, use it. Book an appointment and drop it off the night before to ensure the truck is cold started by the tech in the morning.

    I went through this a few months ago, unfortunately my warranty was up and I payed a mechanic $2400 Canadian pesos to do the job. I can pull out the invoice and tell you exactly what he he did.

    He also told me he’s got a customer with a 5.7 at ~600k kilometres and his timing chain (drivers side like all the rest) has been noisy for years. Take what you will from that.

    I seafoamed 500 kms before my oil change and went on a weekend road trip. No dice.

    Anyways, not trying to be insulting but if you’ve got the warranty, you’d be foolish not to try the dealer first. Even if you have to be there to witness them cold start it to reproduce the sound.
     
  6. Jan 4, 2021 at 8:03 PM
    #66
    bsavoir

    bsavoir New Member

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    This is what I'm dealing with on my 2016 Limited, kind of sounds similar.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/cmyKQlqampM

    https://youtube.com/shorts/LvSuUOjLKM4

    Been to the dealer, they have a few ideas, the worst being pulling the engine. I'm not to worried as I have a platinum warranty good to 125,000 miles.

    My issue is on cold starts only, when it's warmed up, the sound is gone.
     
    pickeledpigsfeet likes this.
  7. Jan 5, 2021 at 6:59 AM
    #67
    TruckyTruck

    TruckyTruck Dumbest Username

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    I have this usually on startup. It doesn’t last long, but it’s got me concerned. Since my belt squealed a little on start up, I decided to change it and the tensioner. It seemed like it had fixed the problem until I heard it this morning. Mine has 180k miles.

    hopefully you will update us!
     
  8. Jan 6, 2021 at 7:01 AM
    #68
    ljburns

    ljburns New Member

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    I'm at 110,000 miles (oil changes every 5k +/- 200 miles) and mine just started doing this. Only on cold days, usually below 40F. Goes away completely after it is warmed up and doesn't come back until it has sat overnight and completely cooled down. Recently went in for oil change and talked to the service manager. Showed him the video. He has a Sequoia, and told me the sound is the timing chain and is normal. I might remove the belt sometime to verify it isn't something like the alternator since my noise is coming from the passenger side, not the driver side like most other people.
     
    Hightide likes this.
  9. Jan 6, 2021 at 1:28 PM
    #69
    bsavoir

    bsavoir New Member

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    The first time I took my truck in they were not able to hear it make the sound. Then a few days later I dropped it off for 2 days and they were only able to hear it once. The day I went to pick it up they were not able to get to replicate the sound again. Then after the following weekend I dropped it off Sunday night and they were not able to get it to again make the sound Monday morning. So they called me in on Monday around 4pm to see if we (They) can hear the same thing I hear. We walked back to the lot where my truck was and they started it up and as I was explaining the issue and the video I had, and during our conversation the sound didn't come back, but soon as we were about to wrap it up, the noise came right back. They mentioned a few things from a bad lifter or cam, bad flex plate, belt tensioner, or the timing chain. But I'm hoping to get it dropped off next week so they can further evaluate it, suppose to be colder next week in central Texas and hopefully long enough so this issue comes back. My truck only has 44,000 miles on it.
     
    Hightide likes this.
  10. Jan 6, 2021 at 1:32 PM
    #70
    ljburns

    ljburns New Member

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    I took the belt off and started the truck. No odd sound anymore. The belt tensioner pulley is wobbly and freely spins with no resistance at all. I think that might be my issue. I put the belt back on and started the truck up and still no noise, but the engine temp was already 77 (ambient is 37) due to the start up without the belt. I will try again tomorrow.
     
    Rex Kramer likes this.
  11. Jan 6, 2021 at 1:35 PM
    #71
    ljburns

    ljburns New Member

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    Here is a link to the video of what the pulley sounds like. I have it posted in another thread while trying to figure this out.

    https://youtu.be/pY6iil3wm7E

    Not sure if this helps the OP. Maybe it will at least help rule stuff out.
     
  12. Jan 7, 2021 at 12:20 PM
    #72
    Rebel Tundra Man

    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] New Member

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    I changed the oil monday night and the seafoam had probably 200+/- miles to do its job. I dont remember exactly but I drove it every day every chance I could to get it circulated well.
     
    Ruggybuggy likes this.
  13. Jan 7, 2021 at 12:22 PM
    #73
    Rebel Tundra Man

    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] New Member

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    I plan to use it, my trusted mechanic had did some research himself after the diagnose and said alot of his resources had mentioned trying this with seafoam as well first just to see. As soon as I can get everything settled I will be replacing the tensioner. I do know my trusted mechanic told me his books show 14-15 hours to tear down and replace. Waiting to hear back on warranty what they will do as well.
     
  14. Jan 7, 2021 at 12:25 PM
    #74
    Rebel Tundra Man

    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] New Member

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    I have heard mine do it in all temperature ranges I started noticing it back last summer when it was it the 60-100 degree range here in Kentucky, now we are seeing high teens and up for temperatures and it still persists just the same. I just rolled over 95,500 miles for anyone needing to know. I will report back when I know more from my mechanic with what the warranty will do for me.
     
    Hightide likes this.
  15. Feb 3, 2021 at 8:45 AM
    #75
    scpete24

    scpete24 Duuuuuuude

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  16. Feb 5, 2021 at 5:27 AM
    #76
    Rebel Tundra Man

    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] New Member

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    I did get an update, sorry its been a crazy month and havent had much time to post anything new. The warranty I have on the truck said they can not approve covering the charges just off my oil change records, until the truck has been tore down. However they may approve the repair charges once it has been tore down to prove that there is no lack of maintenance on the truck. In the mean time of all this happening, I cracked a piston in my jeep (my spare vehicle) which means I had nothing to drive while my truck was being fixed. So I had to put the repair on my truck on hold until I have the jeep back on the road which should be taken care of this weekend. I will report back once I can get the truck into the shop and tore down though. My mechanic did tell me the total charges will be about $1,400 if the warranty does not cover anything on it, which is better than I expected it to be either way!
     
  17. Feb 5, 2021 at 5:31 AM
    #77
    Rockin 2nd Gen

    Rockin 2nd Gen New Member

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    hqdefault.jpg OIP.W-KCneHLQJlsyMU8zLzpzQAAAA.jpg Mine is quiet. I would say you could look at an accessory bearing, as the bearings get a flat spot on them it will sound like that. Also it could be the tensioner going bad, or something in the water pump bearings. It could be the timing chain but i checked into that last year and everyone says those typically go 200k to 300k miles.
     
  18. Feb 5, 2021 at 12:11 PM
    #78
    jtaco

    jtaco New Member

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    Hello all,

    I have a 2010 Tundra 5.7 flex with 107,000 miles that has developed this same slapping noise on the driver side. I have had the truck since 30,000 miles, change the oil regularly, etc. I have taken to a local mechanic(really great reputation) and they think it is the oil pump to the tune of $2000+. They don't know if that will fix it, won't know until they tear it apart, and believe it could end up costing more(pull the front of the engine off again, etc) to possibly solve the problem.

    They think it might be cheaper to install a new motor, and they really weren't interested in doing that. I don't want to spend the $$$ either. My research tells me Toyota does not make that same 5.7 anymore, so it would be a rebuilt. Any thoughts, opinions? It doesn't seem like a very saleable vehicle with this noise, if I did go that route.

    I was hoping to keep this truck around for a while. Also, it isn't a daily driver for me fwiw. Thanks for any insight.
     
  19. Feb 5, 2021 at 12:39 PM
    #79
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy New Member

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    Why would your reputable mechanic thinks its an oil pump. I've never heard one make a tapping noise. The likely cause is the oil adjuster. I would try a good engine flush first before I started spending that kind of money. Remember the 5.7 is a noisy motor and what you're hearing is probably normal.
     
    Rocko9999 and pickeledpigsfeet like this.
  20. Feb 6, 2021 at 10:14 AM
    #80
    jtaco

    jtaco New Member

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    We did the flush and it had zero impact on the noise. They are assuming that oil is not being distributed properly. It is definitely not a normal sound.
     
  21. Feb 7, 2021 at 7:50 AM
    #81
    blanchard7684

    blanchard7684 New Member

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    Have you confirmed if the noise is present with drive belt off?

    My experience with loose timing chains is they aren't an immediate, break-the-bank, priority. I've seen a Saturn go 40,000 miles with a cold-start chain rattle. I've seen an old 22R go 80,000 miles before the slack was bad enough to start hitting the timing cover.

    It sounds like the tensioner is delayed in getting oil. But it also could be the anti-slack ratchet not keeping tension.
     
    Vizsla likes this.
  22. Feb 10, 2021 at 8:30 PM
    #82
    sixweeds

    sixweeds New Member

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    Hightide: My '07 5.7L began making this loud slapping noise on the driver's side when it started dipping below freezing here in northern Idaho. It slaps badly, then after a few minutes warming up, it goes away and is as quiet/noisey as it ever was. I change my oil every 10k miles with Mobil 1. I changed the oil when it started making this noise and this time, it had about 5k since the last change. Always change the filter as well. I've always used Mobil 1 and it has always exceeded expectations since racing in-line four motorcycles back in the 80's. Anywho, after searching YouTube, I'm believing the left side/driver side tensioner is bad. But what I was thinking, and heard it here for the first time, was that the oil is not getting to the tensioner. But, once it is warmed up, it gets to it. One of the posters said that there are screens on the variable valve timing dohicky's or sludge has plugged the tensioner oil port, or possibly partly plugged it. I don't want to do the tear down and replace the tensioner only to have the problem reoccur due to lack of oil to it. No sense in fixing the symptom if the underlying problem isn't solved.

    Has anyone on here run Seafoam through their engine and had that alone solve the problem? That would be a lot easier than replacing the tensioner.
    Also, does anyone know if there is a requirement to replace the timing chain at some point? Or, are the timing chains (4 of them) supposed to last the life of the engine. I saw that video of the million mile Tundra and they didn't mention timing chains ever needing to be replaced. I don't have a service manual, so I haven't checked.

    Any advice would be much appreciated.
     
  23. Feb 11, 2021 at 8:33 AM
    #83
    scpete24

    scpete24 Duuuuuuude

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    I have heard and researched the same as you, and I have similar questions. Mine is at 58K and just started doing this intermittently when it gets into the 30's. Makes a loud slap/tick for the first half to 1 second after starting then sounds normal. Only after sitting overnight and only on the first start of the day.
     
  24. Feb 12, 2021 at 7:08 AM
    #84
    sixweeds

    sixweeds New Member

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    Because it runs normally after warmup, I think the issue is oil not getting to the tensioner on cold startups (30’s and below). I’m going to Seafoam the crankcase, fuel system, and intake And drive the fuel level until the fuel light comes on and then change the oil and filter. There’s a great video of the results of this here: https://youtu.be/agAWXnT4-EQ
    I’ll post back in a few days. BTW, my 2nd Gen ‘07 has 187,000 on the clock and otherwise runs perfectly.
     
  25. Feb 12, 2021 at 7:32 AM
    #85
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer 'Screaming Buffalo'

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    Seafoam in the crankcase is a good idea, but there are better ways to maintain & clean the fuel / intake / injection system.
     
  26. Feb 12, 2021 at 9:22 AM
    #86
    scpete24

    scpete24 Duuuuuuude

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    Like?
     
  27. Feb 12, 2021 at 9:43 AM
    #87
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer 'Screaming Buffalo'

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    Any fuel system cleaner with "PEA" will help, and there is a pressurized fuel injector cleaning service that some mechanics offer. There is nothing wrong with using Seafoam, I'm just saying that there are better ways to clean carbon buildup out of the intake and off the injectors.
     
  28. Feb 12, 2021 at 11:07 AM
    #88
    scpete24

    scpete24 Duuuuuuude

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    Good to know man, thanks!
     
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  29. Mar 3, 2021 at 11:28 AM
    #89
    Rebel Tundra Man

    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] New Member

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    Just wanted to give everyone an update, the truck has been taken to my mechanic for tear down and inspection. I will hopefully have an answer for you all soon about this ongoing issue some of us are experiencing. I will report back once everything has been tore down, inspected, and hopefully cleared by my aftermarket warranty.
     
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  30. Mar 3, 2021 at 1:56 PM
    #90
    sixweeds

    sixweeds New Member

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    I had high hopes for the mechanic in a can fix...SeaFoam. I ran 5.5 oz in the crank case, 25 oz in the fuel tank, and ran a can of intake cleaner in the intake. My thinking was that if the tensioner is not getting oil when cold, but works fine when warmed up, perhaps the oil passageway(s) to the tensioner were restricted and not allowing good oil flow until the oil was heated and thinned. Initially, it seemed to work. But, after sitting a few days, the chain slapping sound came back on a cold start. Today, it was fairly warm in Spokane...about 62 degrees. I went to start it around noon after driving it early this morning, and the noise was there. It is not as bad as before the SeaFoam. It is quieter and goes away when warmed. And I even had the oil changed yesterday and added 5.5 oz to the crankcase again. It was an expensive exercise though, as I had just done a Mobil1 oil/filter change about two months ago and as you know, synthetic ain't cheap. Yesterday I just had non-synthetic oil for the change as I plan to change it out in 1,000 miles. If the noise persists, I think I will be back at square one and pull the front engine cover and replace the 4 chains and 4 tensioners (no sense in doing just one tensioner getting that far into the motor. Any thoughts? Thanks!
     
    Rebel Tundra Man [OP] likes this.

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