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Timing belt change at 10k miles but 12 years?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Tundratimetb, Aug 31, 2024.

  1. Sep 5, 2024 at 7:19 PM
    #31
    Tundratimetb

    Tundratimetb [OP] New Member

    Joined:
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    "06 Tundra AC TRD w/ RCD
    I guess the biggest take away, even over the fact that a Tundra can take a lot of upkeep, is that anytime you can do your own work, you'll save a ton of money over paying to have it done. I'm sure that compounds with a near 20 year old vehicle that's going to need repairs more often as it ages. Quick example... I recently changed my fuel pump in my Civic for $200 instead of the crazy $1300 that was being quoted, and was NOT a very hard job.
    On a side note, with the $841 I was quoted for the tensioners, is that part also something that always needs changing based on time (like the timing belt)? It's basically a bearing right? If it doesn't degrade like the belt material, should still be fine with only 10k miles on them? Not trying to cut corners, just don't want to be sold tensioners just because it's the stealership (etc).
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2024
  2. Sep 8, 2024 at 1:17 AM
    #32
    ps8820

    ps8820 New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2024
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    joe
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    06 SR5 AC 2WD V8 BktSeats
    None yet
    'So, you wanna buy an 18yr old Tundra' [sorry @shifty, had to do it]...,what? you cant rebuild your suspension or RnR your TB/Rad-cooling-system?
    Nope, but suffice to say I'll take my chances and keep the skilled/seasoned mechanics nearby. I can do minor mechanical, but those savings arent enough to make me feel Im getting miles/$s ahead. Realizing its an old truck and things need servicing, im comfortable with this cost of ownership, especially compared to cost of NEW. Im convinced that these trucks are worth owning and servicing, if you have a competent mechanic- yes, theyll need $s and downtime but thats a worthwhile tradeoff, considering the following.
    About doing your own mechanical work: I get a kind of 'Zen' [or whatever you wanna call it] when Im into any task or project that demands attention, knowledge and care to garuantee 100 outcome and evenbetter when I save substantial cash. I say this cuz I retired young-ish and have the time. But I also measure the return on that time spent vs time used otherwise w/fam, house, investment research, fishing trips, on and on. At the same time, some tasks Id rather assign to pro's whose expertise is beyond question [right the 1st time], and in rare case of vehicle collision issues. There is value in assigning this work to the uber-competent personell.
    My logic may be faulty, but heres how I measured:
    [Personally feel FGTs are hard to beat in overall Size to Power to Performance ratios and no offense intended to NEW owners, but those trucks look a minor PITA to shoe-horn into traffic/parking nowadays].
    In the alternative to an 18yr old FGT, if i wanted a new Tundra and instead dropped my $15k as down payment for NEW, thats still about $12000 /yr [spreading $15k DP over 48mo term per ToyFin=1.9% on $36k of $51k base 2WD]. Yes, its a given tho that first 7yrs will be near zero R&Rs beyond OilnFilters/Brakes/Battery/Fluids/Tires, but your still hooked to +/- $9k min/yr. for 4yrs; AND depreciation hasnt been applied yet, which after its paid off, the $15k DP is consumed as in not part of residual valuation. Add the annual insurance/registration being quite a bit more on NEW. All these consequential costs do add to the NEW 'bottomline'. Yes, my situation isnt al, that common but also not rare either. So even if im not doing all mechanical, my circumstance warrants the purchase and thus there is a case for owning and paying for the large and critical service an 18yr old will need, of course if you need 10k# tow capacity, presume you'll need at least 3rdG w/5.7L...⁹⁹
    BUT!, if youre self employed and rely 100% on a truck to make your living- [and can biz-write-off] by all means buy NEW or as near New as possible. Whole different universe.

    So far w/acquisition and minor suspension rebuild [LBJs, SteeringEnds, SteerRack bracket-bushings, StabilizerEnds, Bilsteinx4, SteerBoots, Alignmnt, Tires] + TB-Rad r&r [next mo] +/- $17k; now I'll add $8k for potential Trans repair/replace and AI Rebuild, and that gets me to $25k projected over 5 yrs for a Tundra I dont need [want] to drive more than 5000mi/yr. but I trust the truck is capable of more. For my purposes, I can live w/$5k a year project [which Ive already paid 3+ yrs of] and Im doing little to no real mechanics on it w/my tools-hands. Of course this Tundras already at 170k mi's and isnt shiny [all over], but I like it that way; not concerned about scratches or flaking clearcoat. On top of this, theres a small chance these trucks will be sought after as classics and I still might get my $10k acquisition back! [ok! yeah, almost fantasy]

    So, no I dont think you need to be a 'mechanic' to own a FGT and Im glad @bfunke used the word "probly" but then Im not modding this truck for any off-road or rockcrawl- just occasional tows and hardware runs.
    Also, better buy a back up AISIN kit or 2 to future-proof it too.

    Oh, thanks again to @shifty: in post 22 i think he cites a very fair middle of the road on issue of FGT cost of ownership.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2024

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