Timing Belt and Water Pump is the Best Job :)

Agreed. Unplug and replug fuel injector and coil connectors just to make sure. They'll give you a nice solid "click".

 

I just did the spark plugs not too long ago with no issue, but stuff gets jostled and unplugs, so I will definitely be googling all the dumb stuff first before I pull everything off.

I might just do it all in one swoop too, since taking off the timing covers and manually cranking to TDC doesn’t require me to take off everything to see the cam and crank marks. I’ll probably just pop off the serpentine belt and fan attached to the fan clutch just to make it easier. They should really make a clear timing belt cover… that would save me maybe 30-45 minutes

 

The little rubber vent for the cannister needs to be flipped around. PS your engine is really clean for a 2000.

 

Thanks! Courtesy of the previous owner! I flipped it around so I could get a better view, but it was facing down before.

Could you by any chance take a picture of what this vacuum line that's below and next to the dipstick is? This was the one I was talking about when I said this line is the one of concern. My girlfriend took some pictures and said it's attached at both ends, but from the looks of it, it isn't.

 

Okay, just took it apart and this is the verdict:

First revolution which wasn’t a full rotation:


Second Pass which was a full 720 rotation of the crank:


Third pass, 720 crank rotation again because I couldn’t believe my fucking eyes:


So, again correct me if I’m wrong, but Im in perfect time! Actually really happy I don’t have to take the engine apart again.

I noticed that when I was taking the covers off that the cam sensor wasn’t locked in place, so that may be the culprit. Regardless, probably going to go around the engine and recheck everything tomorrow. I need a break from engine shenanigans and a family friend is coming to help me diagnose things Friday.

 

Looks like it is timed correctly! Whew.

 

Yeah I was preparing myself for the worst, but so happy it’s nothing serious! Now it’s diagnosing the current problem.

Luckily I don’t have to worry about damaging the valves, so once I install my outer tire rods I’ll give it a test drive and hope it’s the ECU fixes it. I got some hoses to probably replace or maybe even the MAF sensor. Pretty sure most of the vacuum lines are still from stock 24 years ago, same with the MAF.

 

Are the timing belt & water pump the only things you've replaced while having the battery disconnected?

Don't go wasting money on parts, especially a new MAF just yet. If your truck idled fine before you started working you probably just missed something when you put it back together

 

Yeah those were the only things replaced.

I’m going to start small and replace some vacuum lines. A buddy told me to get a cheap smoke machine at harbor freight which I might do if they’re cheap and I’m out of options. Ik one is taped up to seal, but it wasn’t causing a rough idle before. Still could be the problem.

Regardless, gonna cross my T’s dot my I’s sort of deal

 

So I put the engine back together and re-checked everything, started her up and she idled for 10 minutes with no issues!

I think the problem might've been the loose cam sensor since that was the most obvious thing with it being not fully connected, but it could've also been a vacuum line. Well, time to do the tire rods so I can get this baby up and running! I'll revive this thread if anything else happens, but thanks everyone for the help! Couldn't have done it without you guys

 

If you are in MD, I would be happy to verify/reset your timing. This is a lot to type, get FSM OUT AND verify before u crank. Triple check all notches/ alignment marks top and bottom , i always fully rotate by hand slowly first , if you get any torn shoulder muscle noises or slack in timing belt stop and start over. Good man for tackling this yourself. 100% best way to learn.

 

Congrats! Sorry late post! Good work@

 

Thank you!

 

Unfortunately reviving this thread for a different issue. Water pump is most likely leaking. It must’ve started when I took it on the highway to go to dinner, because when I came out after dinner there was a gushing puddle underneath the truck with drip looking like it was coming from one of the main radiator hoses. I said no biggie, topped it off with some water and drove home.

I came home, popped open the engine bay, and there was dried up coolant all over the place with no issues with the hoses as I could see whatsoever. I thought the leak was coming from the bottom hose, but it looks like it’s coming from behind the power steering motor and just dripped down. Regardless, coolant was all over the place, front and back of the engine and all over the cross member.

I Checked the thermostat since I thought that’d be the culprit because I used gasket maker and not the recommended, but that was bone dry.

Truck barely leaks when it’s off, and is pissing bad when it’s on. I checked the torque on the bolts three times before I threw everything back on so I’m unpleasantly surprised.

I haven’t found the source of the leak, so I’m going to give it a look over after work and hope it’s just a cracked or slipped hose, but it just sounds like the water pump from what I’ve read. I don’t think the seal would shift or cause a leak due to higher speeds and would’ve just started leaking after install with pressure on. If it was the seal though, it must’ve been faulty for not leaking until now.

Hopefully it is just a loose hose, but if it isn’t, I’m Gonna have to buy more seals and O-rings. Getting a pressure tester loaner kit and I’ll upload some pics tomorrow ): hoping for the best!

 

pics/video will help, also, check out this thread https://www.tundras.com/threads/coolant-leak-advice.127501/ .

 

Got the loaner pressure tester kit from autozone and diagnosed the problem in 5 minutes. Big ass hole in the thermostat hose that plugs into the radiator. I must’ve put the hose on backwards because it was rubbing against the one of the pulleys.

Easy repair. Just gotta flush the coolant since probably 80% of it is water. Hopefully no more leaks after that.

 

That's great. I remember when I did my first water pump job on my 78 Toyota pickup. Which, by the way, is an extremely easy job compared to these trucks. Water and oil pumps are just right there on the front of the engine, no cover. I had it going in to a shop for something else right after. Everything seemed fine, but when I pulled into the shop I was spraying coolant. I can't remember exactly what I did wrong, but it had to do with the thermostat housing. Luckily I had a good relationship with those mechanics and we all laughed about it together...

The first time you do these type jobs it's all kinda complicated, and you can get 99% of it right but still miss that one little thing...

 

Yup 22RE was super easy to work on and they all had manual trannys.

 

Yikes!

Anyways we're back up and running fully, but I'm currently having another problem with some plastic sound at low idle. Doesn't impede the running of the car, but I'm getting this noise and I want to identify it before I get back on the road. I'm going to make a new thread for that and link it here if you want to follow with that. Thanks a lot everyone for the help!

 

Link is here if you want to keep following. Thanks again for all the help guys!