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Time for front brakes- vendor recommendations?

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014+)' started by frichco228, Oct 13, 2020.

  1. Oct 16, 2020 at 9:15 AM
    #31
    wmchaseb

    wmchaseb New Member

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    Ive seen a few threads on here where members claims the only rotors they had that didn't warp where cryo treated. Not sure if its 100% true, but that's the route I'm going.
     
  2. Oct 16, 2020 at 9:16 AM
    #32
    Njmike13

    Njmike13 New Member

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    Exactly. It's as overwhelming as the 5 million what tires fit posts.:confused:
     
  3. Oct 16, 2020 at 10:47 AM
    #33
    cooper4x4

    cooper4x4 New Member

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    I had a horrible experience with Yellow Stuff Pads. Lasted just a few months and destroyed the rotors. Went back to OEM
     
  4. Oct 16, 2020 at 10:53 AM
    #34
    Njmike13

    Njmike13 New Member

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    OEM pads and rotors?
     
  5. Oct 16, 2020 at 10:58 AM
    #35
    cooper4x4

    cooper4x4 New Member

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    Yes
     
  6. Oct 16, 2020 at 11:05 AM
    #36
    tbrown

    tbrown 2017 CM FFV

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    I’m running Ebc yellow stuff and ebc rotors drilled/slotted. Supercharged with headers and full armor (heavy and fast) and stopping in not an issue at all. The yellow stuff pads are a much more aggressive pad, so they will dust more and wear out much quicker. The trade off is worth it for my use. As with any rotors, they will warp if you don’t replace pads at appropriate intervals (intervals will be shorter for these pads)
     
    HulkSmurf14 likes this.
  7. Oct 16, 2020 at 11:13 AM
    #37
    cooper4x4

    cooper4x4 New Member

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    My experience was an obscene amount of dusting (turned OEM steel wheels black) and lasted maybe 6 months. They also hotspotted the rotors so I replaced those also.
     
  8. Oct 16, 2020 at 11:25 AM
    #38
    tbrown

    tbrown 2017 CM FFV

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    yep, more aggressive pads will dust and wear much faster, it’s the trade off. I replace mine every 4-6 depending on if I’ve been running hard or not. They stop me better than anything else I’ve tried which is what I’m after
     
  9. Oct 16, 2020 at 12:32 PM
    #39
    kparrow

    kparrow New Member

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    Goodyear UltraTerrain AT 275/70/r18, Access Toolbox Bed cover, Stoptech Cryo Slotted Rotors/Hawk LTS Pads, Stubby Antenna, Paracord Grab Handles, more planned!
    I did stoptech cryo slotted and centric premium in the rear. Hawk LTS pads all around. VERY happy with the performance
     
  10. Oct 16, 2020 at 1:02 PM
    #40
    Highsierraguy

    Highsierraguy New Member

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  11. Oct 16, 2020 at 2:12 PM
    #41
    frichco228

    frichco228 [OP] Valued Member

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    They were less at tirerack and they had them in stock, they are $137

    buybrakes had a decent price, but the rotor for the right side was showing a availability delay.

    Centric also has some smooth ones available on tire rack at a really good price...ugh but for some reason they only list availability for the rear?

    Here are some examples https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/res...=Tundra+4WD&autoYear=2016&autoModClar=CrewMax
     
  12. Oct 16, 2020 at 4:13 PM
    #42
    Wallygator

    Wallygator New Member

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    OEM for me. Never had any luck with aftermarket kits on the vehicles I have owned but I probably didn't buy the right stuff
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2020
  13. Oct 18, 2020 at 10:03 AM
    #43
    Js18tundra

    Js18tundra New Member

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    I’ve used nothing but EBC on all my vehicles I’ve owned, best brakes out there. When my tundra needs brakes I’ll be upgrading to the greenstuff 7000
     
  14. Oct 18, 2020 at 11:36 AM
    #44
    DaddyPete

    DaddyPete New Member

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  15. Oct 18, 2020 at 12:30 PM
    #45
    timsp8

    timsp8 Member

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    Here is a chart about ebc. A lot are recommending it. Like I said above, I changed from power stop to ebc and there was a pretty big difference in pedal feel and stopping.

    598D48B0-8582-416E-BC7C-5CA55B4B45DA.jpg
     
  16. Oct 19, 2020 at 8:56 AM
    #46
    Mr. White

    Mr. White Poco Loco

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  17. Oct 19, 2020 at 1:15 PM
    #47
    Hunterdan

    Hunterdan New Member

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    I did the front brakes yesterday. Installed the Detroit axle drilled and slotted with power stop z36 pads. I had to bed them in, and once they were, they definitely seem to grab really well. Side by side, these were a good bit heavier than oem. 20201018_134949.jpg 20201018_134955.jpg 20201018_151550.jpg
     
    The Patriot 1776 likes this.
  18. Oct 23, 2020 at 3:58 PM
    #48
    SouthWestGA

    SouthWestGA New Member

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  19. Oct 23, 2020 at 4:31 PM
    #49
    omgboost

    omgboost The Accountant

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  20. Oct 23, 2020 at 9:28 PM
    #50
    westmsm93

    westmsm93 New Member

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    So after TONS and TONS of research, both for my Lexus and Tundra. Brakes are a peculiar subject. First off, I will comment that Centric is a great brand of rotors to work with. Their quality in metal composition and milling is good. They have a good quality control system in place. Most rotors, Centric or not, more than likely came from China and rebranded one way or another. Many companies will buy blanks and get them milled to their specifications. I myself run their premium high carbon 125 version for my Lexus vs their plain 120 series. And as a side note, I believe that Centric does not have the high carbon 125 for our trucks. However, their subsidiaries, Stoptech, does with the slots and cross drill. If I had to buy new rotors today, they would be from Advics. Their basic rotor is a high carbon rotor vs Centric's 120 series cast iron one. Advics is actually one of the OEM suppliers for Toyota and Lexus for good reason. They claim that they manufacture their rotors here on US soil. If Advics wasn't available, I'd buy centric/stoptech in a heart beat.

    Also here is a great intro to Cast Iron vs High Carbon

    http://knowhow.napaonline.com/brake-rotors-the-six-different-types/

    As for slotted or drilled or both, I recommend staying away from all three. Any of those three essentially removes real estate where your brake pads bite. I know many people vouch for the slotted versions. Slotted has a couple of so called "advantages." One main one is for water. But here is my theory on it. For daily driving, the centrifugal force will naturally force any water on the rotors to be pushed towards the edge of the rotors. Plus the rotor is protected by the wheels and dust shield. Unless you do some track runs in heavy rain, it wouldn't really benefit us at all. But having it couldn't hurt us either! So dealer's choice in that regards.

    I also recommend you use a good quality pad and rotor combination. Proper bed in procedure will definitely help prolong the life of your brake setup and mitigate brake pulsation down the road. I myself, am installing Akebono's ASP line of pads tomorrow. I got ASP vs their Proact series for a better initial bite. I heard nothing but good things from Akebono. I do know that their Proact series has minimal dusting. But as long as the ASP line isn't too crazy dusty, I'll be happy.

    These are the rotors I would buy. - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5574099&cc=3437071&jsn=11045

    Brake pads - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4495266&cc=3437071&jsn=11168
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2020 at 9:36 PM
    The Patriot 1776 likes this.
  21. Oct 24, 2020 at 3:39 AM
    #51
    LS Powah

    LS Powah New Member

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    Second all of this. Never seen drilled and sloted work out very good for very long; have seen lots of cracks...if they work for you then great! Akebono pads are truly impressive...been running them for years.

     
  22. Oct 24, 2020 at 9:09 AM
    #52
    Twise

    Twise More punk than you...

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  23. Oct 24, 2020 at 8:42 PM
    #53
    wmchaseb

    wmchaseb New Member

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    Are those ADVICS rotors you linked the same ones that come on stock tundras? If so why would you recommend them if so many people have issues with warping on stock rotors. Please excuse my ignorance if I am mistaken. I just clicked the link and copy pasted the part number in google and it pulled up our oem rotors.

    I also have a question about the Centric/stoptech rotors. I had earlier stated I was going to go with the stoptech slotted cryo rotors. I have since changed my mind and decided against slotted all together. Do you think the cryo treated rotors are worth it, or just stick with regular rotors?
     
  24. Oct 24, 2020 at 8:56 PM
    #54
    MTRock

    MTRock New Member

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    120,000 miles still original OEM rotors with new OEM pads. Not much stop and go traffic miles? But still wobble free. Almost any rotor will warp/wobble if abused!
     
    westmsm93 likes this.
  25. Oct 25, 2020 at 10:37 PM
    #55
    westmsm93

    westmsm93 New Member

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    Haha no worries brotha! I understand your hesitation! Yes, I believe they are OEM! I'm not an engineer by any means. I am a simple enthusiast that wants the best stuff for my truck. So I believe pulsation happens due a multitude of variables. It could be simply the different types or combination of rotors and pads. First off, I definitely know there is a huge debate whether or not that rotors warp vs brake pad imprint, etc etc. I won't get into that as that is a deep bottomless rabbit hole. Either way when pulsation happens, it means something isn't balanced in the equation. I will comment that when you brake your truck/car hard enough, the rotors and pads get extremely hot. When they do, sometimes the pad material uneven transfer to the rotors causing different friction coefficients on certain spots of the rotor. If you ever brake hard, I don't like to come to a complete stop. I'd put it in neutral and keep my foot off the brakes. Applying pressure to the brakes when they are hot can cause pulsation shortly. It is hard to determine why many get pulsation and why many don't. Everyone brakes differently and have different setups. I have people on here that swear by other brands and some that are die hard OEM guys.

    Here is some food for thought. The board of engineers at Toyota go through an insane amount of testing. A priority of theirs is reliability. I'd hate to think that they would skimp out on such an important safety feature and compromise the Toyota's brand of reliability. Another idea is that if the brake system was flawed, why did they keep the same design for +13 years? You'd think they would of addressed something like that within the first few years.

    As for Centric rotors, I have them on my Lexus. To specify, the High Carbon Blank tier. I haven't put enough miles on them yet to really give you reliable data. If they had the High Carbon Blank ones for the Tundra, I would definitely buy the Centric Brand, thus I went for Advics. The reason for high carbon is due to its ability for thermal regulation. The carbon in the composition helps with it vs straight iron. And honestly, the Cryo is a true method on prolonging the life of the rotors. I believe it will extend the lifetime of it by 2-3 times. But since rotors are so cheap now a days, I typically just buy new ones and slap them on with new pads as that reassures me that I have a brand new braking setup. If you tow heavy loads, I would say shell out the extra $100 and have some piece of mind with the cryos. Another issue I notice with slotted, if you brake hard, you WILL feel a vibration on the brakes. Normally braking, you won't feel it.

    I personally have never gotten pulsation with my Tundra's OEM rotors and Pads. I drive my rig hard and fast in Baja where the temps are hovering around 110 Fahrenheit.


    P.S. I just swapped out my pads to Akebonos ASP line yesterday, both front and rear. I am still running some R1 Concept Geomet Slotted Rotors. I'll probably swap them out down the line with the Advics. So far the performance is fantastic. Solid, smooth, and zero squeal. I cleaned my Method rims today and will see how dusty they get after a week worth of driving.
     
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  26. Oct 27, 2020 at 6:19 AM
    #56
    T-Guy69

    T-Guy69 New Member

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    You may not need drilled or slotted rotor. I know they look cool and are on Porsches. They used to be for brakes pads (in the old days) that gassed. It happened to me once when I tracked my car at Bridgehampton.
    But the modern pad material is so superior, I doubt you will ever gas them.

    If you will be towing heavy and the trailer does not have brakes, write some of the manufacturers and ask for recommendations. Hawk had pads for towing for my Ridgeline. My Tundra is new, so I have not looked into pad options.
     
  27. Oct 27, 2020 at 7:29 AM
    #57
    Uhhhh....

    Uhhhh.... New Member

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    Good thread! Lots of info, experiences, & opinions on both sides. I'm new to this topic, and researching/learning.

    I'm considering going with cryo drilled & slotted rotors. I really like that cryo would last a lot longer over non-cryo and they're much more resilient against cracking. Drilled/slotted for the performance they'd bring. I don't tow now, but will be in the future. Nothing huge or heavy - an enclosed moving trailer to haul lots of camping/hunting gear & possibly OHV. But I'd be towing in the mountains (with 7" lift & 37s that I'm already running).

    Several of you suggested Yellowstuff pads. I don't really want to get pads that would destroy rotors like someone said (though I would think they wouldn't destroy cryo rotors) or get pads that won't last very long.

    Any recommendations for good pads that'll work well with cryo/drilled/slotted rotors that will also not require swapping out every 6 months? Thanks...
     
  28. Oct 27, 2020 at 10:24 AM
    #58
    scpete24

    scpete24 Dude

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    Looks like the Z36 are cheaper right now? Can anyone confirm if this is a good deal?

    upload_2020-10-27_10-23-57.jpg
     
  29. Oct 27, 2020 at 10:59 AM
    #59
    Uhhhh....

    Uhhhh.... New Member

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  30. Oct 27, 2020 at 11:01 AM
    #60
    scpete24

    scpete24 Dude

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    Uhhhh.... likes this.

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