The Cream Pie - A 2005 4wd/LS/5-Speed/SAS Conversion

Some wiring tech info so i dont forget it. I couldnt find this information readily when i searched the internet so im posting it here.

Fuel sending unit wiring:
07+ tundra with the 5.7l v8 (maybe/probably others)
Fuel sender ohm readings - 412 ohms empty - 15 ohms full
At the cluster (for my 05 tundra) there are a brown wire and yellow w/ red stripe wire that go the sending unit in the tank.
For my Holley 6.86 digital dash (and the 12.3), you connect the brown wire to I/O-7 on the dash and ground out the yellow w/ red stripe wire. I used the ground wire that is built into the tundra cluster to tie this yellow w/ red wire into. Its white with a black stripe. ( Same ground wire coloring toyota has been using for decades).

I used this video for configuring the gauge in the dash.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IsPktCozWQ

I now have a verified fuel gauge in the digital dash that uses the 07+ sending unit in the 05 Tundra tank.

Turn signal Info:
05 Tundra cluster plugs
Left turn: Green with black stripe
Right turn: Green with yellow stripe
These plug directly into I/O-8 and I/O-9 on the digital dash.
I used this video to configure them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxlsJMpgXag

AC clutch wire:
Light Green with black stripe - i picked this in the IE1 plug i posted above behind the glove box. This wire will go directly to the plug on the GM AC compressor. It should turn the compressor on with the Tundra AC switch on the dash (to be confirmed)

Fuel pump wire:
Blue with the orange stripe
This wire can be found in the kick panel wiring on the drivers side. Find the loom of wires that go to the back of the truck (via under the seat) and tap into the wire there. I used the green wire from the Holley Terminator X to directly power the fuel pump.

 

Wow! Really nice work. Thanks for sharing!

 

Exhausting work but had to be done. Now time to fully weld, paint, and (maybe) wrap. As you can see, i reused as much of the original exhaust from the chevy donor truck as possible. It was mandrel bent tube. 3" diameter into a merge and 3.5" out through the bed side.

 

Exhaust fully welded out and hole cut in the bedside for the exit. I didnt plan it, but got lucky the hole matched up with the body molding. Need to pull it back off and paint it but it was 40 degrees in the shop last night. Axle rebuild and finish welding coming up next.

 

If you have chance, can you get a photo showing the exhaust route into the bed? Been thinking of doing that myself and adding some bezels. Looks great.

https://www.dirtskum.com/product/fender-exhaust-bezels

 

i can take a pic later today. Basically the muffler is under the rear most crossmember where the cab ends. I then put a couple 90-ish degree bends up and over the frame rail and out the bedside. Its angled rearward slightly to blow the exhaust out and away from the cab.

 

More work on the Tundra. Front axle is fully welded out and painted. Time to re-gear it to 5.13s with a Detroit.


Also welded up the Artec steering arms to the knuckles. Ball joint eliminators also welded in. Pre/post heat (not necessary on these knuckles) but made me feel better. The large bolt is a fail safe. Ill get them cleaned up and painted today.


Got an email that my damn coilovers wont be ready until "late april" now. So much for January like they promised. Then March. Now essentially May. One day ill have a roller again.

 

Mas updates on the cream pie.
Front axle is rebuilt and painted. It now has 5.13s and a Detroit locker. Rolled the fab table under the lift and bolted the axle back in the truck and set it at bump.




Now that its at bump, i measured for shock towers. A friend with a plasma table is going to cut a set out for me.


Drilled and tapped my toyota IFS steering box for hydro assist. It wasnt fun but i got it put back together and in the truck.








My coilovers should be here next week. This week, i will get the shafts back in the axle and put the unit bearings back on and figure out what brakes i want to run. The tall shock towers will require me to locate the fuse box up and over some, and i will have to get creative with the hydroboost. Probably going to remote mount the assembly. More to come.

 

Looking good.

 

Very fun to read through this. You make it look easy.

 

Thanks for the kind words. Its all coming together well at the moment.

 

My new (used) Griffin radiator and fans came in last week and had the weekend to make some mounts. I took a chance that the radiator and fans wouldnt be too thick. Its close, but should be just fine.

Radiator is about 30" wide and 5.5" thick overall.




Made some simple dimple died lower mounts.


Simple upper mounts


Clearance to the water pump pulley. Its tight.


I started to mock up the hoses yesterday and it looks like i can make a simple 90 up top and run a hard pipe in front of the fan and over to the water pump. The trick will be seeing if i can then fit an air filter piping in there some where.

Also these bad boys finally came in. Fox 2.5 x 14s custom valved and tuned by Accutune Offroad. Cant wait to get them installed.

 

Updates? Looking forward to seeing some more!
In the meantime here is some motivation! This truck was built by a guy up in Oregon and is similar to yours. Running 14'' fox up front on an 05+ and 63s on the rear with a 14 bolt. Stock 4.7 though.

 

Unfortunately, none at the moment. Been busy wheeling my crawler and havent had much time, but thats about to change. I will be getting my shock towers made soon, so hopefully i can get the coilovers mounted up.

 

Some progress this weekend. A friend printed a shock mount for me to check if it worked. Mounted the 2.5" coilover and flexed it out to check clearances. The spring clears the frame and nothing makes any unwanted contact. Now to print another one and weld them up. I will tie them together with a crossbar (removable) above the engine. Fitting hydroboost will be fun.

 

Shock towers and bump stops installed on the frame side. Still need to made a landing pad for the axle side of things. It will be a roller again very soon.

 

Siiick

 

On all four tires for a shirt while. Its a monster truck as the springs need to settle 2-3".


RufffStuff battery box bolted to the inner fender


Simple air intake. I need to build the crossover tube for my shock towers and will secure the reservoirs to it.


The roller status was short lived as its back on lift to start on the rear suspension. Rear end and factory leafs have been removed. Time to cut off rivets and remove the stock hangers. I have a riffstuff simpe leaf spring swap kit with new hangers to install. the 57" Ford springs have a different center pin location bay have the same basic free height as the tundra springs. Ill be doing a shackle flip to get some more lift, but i may have to use different springs if thats not enough. Maybe some 2nd gen tacoma springs i found on marketplace.

 

Looking good.

 

Wagon technology mocked up last night. 57" ford f150 leafs (4+1), ruffstuff swap kit and a quick shackle flip for the rear. Hopefully its enough lift. Goal is to get it back on its weight tomorrow to check. Fun fact, the tundra rear frame tapers down from 44.5" on center to about 40" on center where the rear hanger mounts. Thats why its outboarded some to keep things square.

 

Sorry for the delay.

 

Thanks, man!

This is done without a body lift? Wondering if I can replicate this on my much less modified tundra.

 

No Body lift. This is 3.5" exhaust after the muffler.

 

Nice. Almost looks like I could fit a dual outlet in there.

 

I dont see why not. There is plenty of room between the frame and bottom of the bed.

 

Don’t mind me. Just reading and enjoying the progress!

Great work. Looks like a lot of fun

 

Back on all fours to check out the rear suspension and to check my shackle angle. I put 5-600lbs of wheels and tires in the bed to simulate the future rear bumper, topper, gear, etc. Looks like i need to move the rear hanger forward about an inch. Its about 80 degrees at the moment and i would like it around 50-60 degrees for ride quality and flex.

 

Sorry for the shit pic, but here is my new shackle angle with the hangers moved 1" forward. its about ~68degrees with the weight still in the bed. Shackles are perfectly 90 degrees at full droop like they should be. New springs should settle 5-10 degrees or so, which will make for a nice plush ride. I need to drop the gas tank to finish weld the drivers side front hanger, then i can rebuild/re-gear the rear and re-install everything. Then it will be off the lift for a good while while i work on the steering and hydroboost brakes.

 

Coming along good.

 

I picked up another project the other day. I needed another one like i needed a hole in my head. 94 solid axle swapped. 4cyl, 5-speed 35-37" mismatched tires. Hideous paint that continues inside on the dash. Custom bumpers. Typical SAS job from 15 years ago. Way too tall. 3" body lift, 5" lift blocks, etc. Plan is to lower it, fix the small shit and sell it.


First day at home, already made it look better. Body lift removal is next. Driving this thing is scary.


Dont worry, this wont interfere with the cream pie. Yesterday i tore out the 14b, put it on the table and comletely tore it down for new gears, locker, bearings. Hope to get it painted and back in this weekend. Last major item to tackle, then its on to brakes and steering.