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Temporary Hype or Long Term Value

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Wizumz, Dec 3, 2019 at 1:50 PM.

  1. Dec 3, 2019 at 1:50 PM
    #1
    Wizumz

    Wizumz [OP] New Member

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    I've been on the prowl for a gen 1 tundra for a while now, just absolutely love the body design and reliability of these, plus the larger design and power vs the Tacomas. But after perusing countless CList postings and car value sites (USAA Car Buyer), I'm starting to wonder if the premium prices are set to stand the test of time, thinking when the average gen 1 starts to deteriorate into rebuild territory.

    Is it really worth the money for one of these, or would one be better off with a newer tacoma or, dare I say it, other brand *cough* Ford *cough*. I have a few lined up to visit and test drive but I can't get over the price tags on these. Looking at a few decent condition rust-belt tundras hovering around $5-5.5k at 200-220k miles. I'd like to look into a Texas or southern dry-state truck but the premium on them (~$9k for 200k miles) seems ridiculous for a 15 year old car. I'm in it for reliability but at some point parts just go... no?

    To compare, I've found a 2012 Chevy 1500 EC with 100k miles, warranties for powertrain and bumper-to-bumper (CPO), listed for $13k. Can't imagine what a tundra would cost for that xD
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2019 at 2:25 PM
  2. Dec 3, 2019 at 2:02 PM
    #2
    Sunnier

    Sunnier President of the Revived Marty McFly FanClub

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    If I get a winch on my 2WD, can I overland with the BASTRDs and SGU?!
    Can’t tell you what you should do but there’s more hype and higher prices on used Tacomas than Tundras. In my opinion, a first gen Tundra, free of rust, with the timing belt and water pump maintenance up to date is a score at the prices you referenced. Reliability, size, V8.

    I bought a 2002 with 208k miles for $5700 and pumped waaaaay more into building it into longtravel. One could argue that I shoulda spent that money on a younger truck. But I didn’t want the size of a later gen Tundra (too big), not a Taco (too small; no V8). And I wouldn’t risk it on a Chevy, Ford, or GMC in that year range... so there it is. Tundras are generally very reliable. I can’t say how maintenance was handled in the past, but I had a mechanic I trust give it an exam and it passed with flying colors. Now I don’t skimp on preventative maintenance because I’ve invested so much in it.
     
  3. Dec 3, 2019 at 2:21 PM
    #3
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    Investment? Its a truck....

    I paid $3000 for my tundra....
     
  4. Dec 3, 2019 at 2:24 PM
    #4
    Wizumz

    Wizumz [OP] New Member

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    Certainly the draw to them
    If you had to estimate, how much of what you invested was necessary for it to be reliable on a three-hour road trip.

    My current bid is on one for about $5.5k, 220k miles, timing belt and pump done within the past year (waiting on receipts) along with many upgrades, BUT the frame was inspected per the recall, passed, and was overcoated (undetermined if this was a viable solution, but I'm partly hoping if it were to fail in my hands I could have Toyota to do something about it since they did the nod)
     
  5. Dec 3, 2019 at 2:25 PM
    #5
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    I think the best thing to do is establish a price ceiling, then shop trucks. You mention you don't feel $5k for a 220k mile Tundra is a worthy investment, then turn around and compare it to a $13k GM. If your willing to spend $13k, you can get a whole lot of Tundra for that price.

    I had a 2005 Silverado that I thought was a well built truck. But no way I'd buy any GM product after 2006. Remember, GM went bankrupt a few years later along with general decline in workmanship and design. Just google the AFM oil consumption, or oil pump failures at 100k, or lifter and cam failures on the vortec engines post 2006. Do I even need to mention the design fa*t the Ford Modular 5.4 is? Spark plugs stripped, spark plugs frozen, spark plugs broke in head, exhaust manifold cracks, cam phaser failure, plastic cam chain tensioner guide failure.

    https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/788036488/overview/


    https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/794461015/overview/
     
  6. Dec 3, 2019 at 2:31 PM
    #6
    Wizumz

    Wizumz [OP] New Member

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    :drevil:

    This is what I was looking for! Some history and knowledge for the truck-newb I am. What's the general consensus on stealerships, I've heard horrible stories from people buying used off them, only one good tale I know of.
     
  7. Dec 3, 2019 at 2:31 PM
    #7
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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  8. Dec 3, 2019 at 2:37 PM
    #8
    Wizumz

    Wizumz [OP] New Member

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  9. Dec 3, 2019 at 3:13 PM
    #9
    Sunnier

    Sunnier President of the Revived Marty McFly FanClub

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    If I get a winch on my 2WD, can I overland with the BASTRDs and SGU?!
    I don’t have immediate access to my service receipts but I’d say $200 which was the trusted mechanic giving it an exam, an oil change, and a new air filter. The truck hasn’t needed much, even the hoses and what-not are in good shape. I’ve done 2 oil changes and air filters, bought a serpentine belt, a length each of fuel and vaccuum hose, and a crap load of tools to carry with me out into the desert, but that’s because it’s wise, not because of any failure so far.

    It matters where you’re shopping. At $5700 my California no rust 208k Tundra was a steal; as clean as it was, the guy coulda got $3k more, but he was in a hurry because he was Navy, about to ship out. Elsewhere, you could find one for less, but you’ll have to worry about rust and road salt damage, whatnot.

    Edit: I would not buy a truck and *hope* Toyota will come through with a new frame of you need one in the future. I’d be crawling underneath with a screwdriver and hammer, to see if I could get any bit of it to crumble; if so, wouldn’t buy.
     
  10. Dec 3, 2019 at 5:01 PM
    #10
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    History on my 2002 bought brand new.

    Never broke down or left me stranded on side of road. Only regular maintenance items done for 15 years.

    A year and a half ago I considered buying a new TuRd Gen because the 2002 was up for some reinvestment $. In the end, my mechanics talked me out of a stupid decision.

    In a year in a half, about $6k has been put back into this truck which runs just as good as the first day. Many things are even better due to some customization.

    So, I put $6k into a truck that could have sold for $6-8k last year. Is it worth $12-14k now? Nope, but there is no $600/mo. new truck payment and $3k in property taxes a year.

    The others above have given good advise. Check my build page for more info.
     
  11. Dec 3, 2019 at 5:14 PM
    #11
    Bulldog_tundra

    Bulldog_tundra New Member

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    Texas has some good deals. I almost pulled the trigger on a one-owner $15K '06 DC that was mint with 50K miles, but decided to stay under $10K and scored mine for $8.9K with 140K miles and all service records because I know the reliability of these. I had an '03 AC and it was my favorite vehicle of everything I'd had (*takes huge breath*: 89 Cressida, 94 F-150, 02 Tacoma, 03 4Runner, 09 Yaris, 03 Tundra, 06 4Runner, 10 IS250, 13 Camry, 13 Tundra, 15 Sequoia, 03 LS430, 97 F-250, 17 GX460) up until this '06 and this is hands down my favorite bc of the size, simplicity, V8, interior room, etc. I can say all of my Toyota's sold near, or in some cases above, what I paid for them because I put some TLC into them and serviced them meticulously. Cannot go wrong with a Toyota IMO. At my job we have 100+ Ford trucks in our fleet and while they've been great for their heavy duty applications - transmission swaps and major engine work is routine after certain mileage - just how it goes.

    Like Hand Model, I almost went with a '19 Tundra, but decided to go with an '06 and put a little money into reconditioning it and am still way ahead.

    All in all, if you're willing to wait for the right one, it'll pop up eventually, but Texas is a great place to look if it's within reasonable distance - they're out there.

    Good luck!

     
    MS22, bmf4069, Wizumz [OP] and 2 others like this.
  12. Dec 3, 2019 at 5:21 PM
    #12
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer New Member

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    Avoid dealers/brokers/flippers and the like.

    Be patient and shop for a 1 or 2 owner rust free 1st gen that's been maintained, look in Georgia & Alabama Craigslist. Mileage is second to rust & proper maintenance on these trucks, 200,000 is no big deal... I purchased my 2007 when it had 270,000.

    If you are looking for a steal, be prepared to spend $3 to $5 thousand on whatever you find AFTER the sale.
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2019 at 5:46 PM
  13. Dec 3, 2019 at 5:23 PM
    #13
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol New Member

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    Here's the deal, these trucks seem to run for a very long time with nearly zero maintenance. You should see some of the stories we've seen here. A few members with over 500k. One guy today said he had 260k miles on the original timing belt. It didn't sound like that truck had been cared for at all. It's amazing really.

    I wouldn't worry too much about the miles and just find one that appears to have been cared for.
     
  14. Dec 3, 2019 at 5:43 PM
    #14
    Hooptytrix

    Hooptytrix Squeaky Chicken

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    I paid 8k for my 05 with 86k miles. That is well below wholesale value. There are deals out there but stay away from the dealers, overpriced. I believe you should be shopping in regions that don't have snow if you can make the journey. As for reliability, yes this truck has a maybe 2 or 3 known issues, the biggest from a cost perspective is the secondary air pump which costs in the thousands to fix or $250 to bypass. Chevy/GMC have well over 20 known issues the worst is hard to nail down but definitely is the constant little things. Ford I really dislike, the spark plugs tend to fuse to the engine which means you have to replace the engine. I can keep going on Ford issues but Ram has Ford beat. Chrysler as whole suffers from quality control, but they are working on it. Quality control may not sound bad until you own a Chrysler product.
    All in all the Chevy/GMC isn't bad but no where the level of reliability as the Toyota trucks. Keep in mind 2 07 tundra's have reached a million miles. Both of those trucks were early 07's running the same 4.7 vvti engine and 5spd transmission as the 05-06.

    https://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/ctd/d/boca-raton-toyota-tundra-sr5crew-cab-v8/7028862162.html

    https://miami.craigslist.org/brw/cto/d/coral-springs-2005-toyota-tundra-sr5/7026190771.html

    https://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/cto/d/boca-raton-2006-toyota-tundra-crew-cab/7025566829.html
     
    Aerindel likes this.
  15. Dec 4, 2019 at 4:06 AM
    #15
    tvpierce

    tvpierce New Member

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    That would be a deal breaker for me. The frame coating was not a proper fix, it was a bandaid. If the coating has been done, then Toyota has legally fulfilled its obligation related to the recall. They will not replace the frame in the future.
     
  16. Dec 4, 2019 at 4:47 AM
    #16
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer New Member

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    From a long term owners perspective, my rust free 2002 4WD SR5 Long Bed Georgia Tundra has about 166,000 well maintained miles on it. With the exception of failing clear coat the truck is super clean, and I would want top dollar if I were to sell it - but it's not for sale, and I have no problem putting money into this truck to keep it running for many more years to come.

    IMG_7605.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2019 at 5:53 AM
  17. Dec 4, 2019 at 5:48 AM
    #17
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol New Member

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    I would steer clear of that truck. We've had so many members ask for help after their frame rotted out even though it had been undercoated by Toyota. Hell, this thread was just started this morning for the same problem.

    Honestly, I would never buy a 1st gen Tundra from a Northern state. That thing will be returning to the earth shortly. Find one down South in God's country and drive back with it.
     
    bmf4069, flyfisher, Aerindel and 2 others like this.
  18. Dec 4, 2019 at 6:02 AM
    #18
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol New Member

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  19. Dec 4, 2019 at 6:15 AM
    #19
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer New Member

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    Corrosive chemicals & salt applied to our streets cost vehicle owners millions in repair & replacement, I would rather take my chances on roads that are plowed only - no salt or chemicals.
     
  20. Dec 4, 2019 at 6:22 AM
    #20
    e30cabrio

    e30cabrio I'm e30cabrio, I'm a modaholic

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    How does the sea air affect cars there? Years ago I drove from Phoenix to San Diego to look at an '81 Supra. The owner was a few blocks from the beach and it literally looked like an east coast salted road car.
     
    Wizumz [OP] likes this.
  21. Dec 4, 2019 at 6:24 AM
    #21
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer New Member

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    Salt air is not kind to metal, but it's gentler than salt water.
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2019 at 6:43 AM
    Wizumz [OP] likes this.
  22. Dec 4, 2019 at 6:26 AM
    #22
    Wizumz

    Wizumz [OP] New Member

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    I've wondered this too, can't imagine it's much better. Saltwater is wildly corrosive.
     
  23. Dec 4, 2019 at 6:41 AM
    #23
    Army_of_One

    Army_of_One New Member

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    I got my 05 from a local. Both owners before me lived in the same area. The underneath has rust, but it's surface only. Nothing is rusted through here unless it was dunked dropping boats. My 91 F-150 that spent it's entire life here had surface only as well.

    I bought my 05 Tundra and got rid of the 91 F-150 for space. I had pretty much rebuilt the F-150, but my kids are too big to ride three deep on a bench seat. It was $10,000 NADA for the Tundra here, but at 150,000 miles I know there are plenty more miles left. I'd rather build the miles up on this than my 19 Tundra, that is for trips/towing.
     
  24. Dec 4, 2019 at 7:45 AM
    #24
    HBTundra

    HBTundra New Member

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    @Professional Hand Model made some VERY good points.

    I'm in a similar place, and am just saving a few more thousand dollars, so when the right Gen 1 DC comes up for sale, I can pull the trigger. I have a 2003 AC V6 2-wd Tundra w/ 172K miles. It still has a ton of life in it . . . but I want the DC/V8 . . . I just 'mentioned' to a few friends that I might be selling mine, and I've basically got it sold already w/o even listing it. These trucks are great.

    I have several friends who've owned them and beat the crap out of them and they just keep going. I occasionally work w/ a friend who has a 2006 DC Tundra and does artificial turf installations and pulls a dump trailer loaded with road-base and decomposed granite to job sites, even puts a small bobcat in there on big jobs . . . . he's got over 200K miles on his. It's funny, on 'occasion' when he's pulling REALLY heavy loads uphill . . . there's what seems to be an 'electrical' issue where the truck sort of 'kicks-out' and losses power momentarily . . . but it's so rare that he hasn't even taken it in to get looked at ! LOL . . . the next weekend he'll load a couple motorcycles in the bed and head to the desert without even flinching!

    I guess my long-winded point is, these trucks are STILL a great value from what I've seen. Here in lame So Cal where every moron has to have a newer, better, shinier, toyota, than the next guy.... there's plenty of 'worthy' Gen-1's around, and for sale. Save your money like I am, and wait for the right one . . . I don't think you'll regret it.
     
  25. Dec 4, 2019 at 8:37 AM
    #25
    JTRCY

    JTRCY New Member

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    I just picked up my 06 Double Cab 4x4 Tundra with 208K a month or so ago for $4850. Was a native MI truck, one owner up to it's first 195K, 2nd owner had it from 195K to 208K. Had extensive Toyota.com service records for it's entire first 195K life, oil/lubes/ fluid flush's, 50K, 80k, etc service intervals... The frame and body panels fairly remarkable considering it's Rust belt home all it's life. It seems the original owner really took good care of it; Interior/carpet/mats is absolutely spotless now, but I had to put a lot of elbow grease into getting there. Came with a very nice tri-fold Tonneau cover and one of those cage-looking foldout bed extenders.

    The only body panel with any rust was the lower inside edge (hidden) part of the driver's door. All the other lower door and the tailgate seams are flawless. The frame has some surface rust, but considering what I've seen myself in other Tundra's and of course what Ive seen online, It's pretty darn solid.

    Surprisingly, all that Toyota dealer service and the timing belt had never been done apparently, so I've gathered up all the parts to do that here in a few weeks, weather permitting. Many of the other regular wear items need done as well, so I'll be spending more money to get it to what I can consider a solid resting point of having to worry about anything:

    - To do: timing belt / radiator, etc. job, needs center bearing carrier (ordered a few ball joints too just in case), probably upper ball joints I guess, front brake pads next spring...
    - Already done: new battery, installed lower ball joints, Installed new resonator, bought new tires/rims (rims and tires that came with it were in good shape - perfectly even wear), 1.25" wheel spacers (not installed in pics), TRD decals.

    The body had a few bumps and scratches, but I was able to pop some out and do some touchup, so it looks great overall right up next to you.

    I've have maybe $6k into it along with my labor, but am confident I could drive it easily for the next 8-10 years if I keep it up.

    What I like about the Tundra is it's pretty much full size, but kind of zips around town with a pep and nimbleness my Suburban's could only dream about.

    IMG_2428.jpg
    IMG_5683.jpg
    IMG_5684.jpg
    IMG_5685.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2019 at 8:51 AM
  26. Dec 4, 2019 at 8:42 AM
    #26
    Wizumz

    Wizumz [OP] New Member

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    Congrats, seems like a good price!

    I'm looking at a few NE trucks that have similar rust or less... how was it working on the rest of the truck? My concern is breaking bolts and stripping screws doing any work I need to in the coming years (I'm also not great mechanically but can figure it out). Obviously it's all case-by-case, but thought I'd ask since you've already put yours under the scalpel.
     
  27. Dec 4, 2019 at 8:51 AM
    #27
    JTRCY

    JTRCY New Member

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    The hardest part of the lower ball joint job was the damn rusty cotter pins! The exhaust resonator went pretty smoothly, looks like the front shocks could be a challenge at some point, but no reason to touch them anytime soon. Engine compartment isn't too bad. The driver's door that had some rust at the bottom - I cleaned it, sprayed it with some rust converter, primed and painted it, and then smoothed some exterior caulking in it to keep any water from getting in there further. I think it'll hold out visually for a couple years after doing that little bit of preventive maintenance.
     
  28. Dec 4, 2019 at 8:55 AM
    #28
    lsaami

    lsaami Redneck Toyota boi with a rice-burner Honda

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    I an one who bought a beaten, rusty northern truck, got a new frame, and have slowly been putting time and money into it to make it better. It’s dead reliable, I’ve towed 4500-5000lbs across the country, and maxed it out a few times as well (towed a full sized f350 diesel, trailer loads of wet firewood).
    Up to this point I have about $3500 invested in this truck, counting the purchase price and new tires. I recently bought a parts truck to body swap, and some new suspension, but I haven’t done anything with those yet, and they weren’t necessities, so I’m not counting them for this measure.
     
    speedtre and Wizumz [OP] like this.
  29. Dec 4, 2019 at 9:00 AM
    #29
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol New Member

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    That's a really nice double cab. I would spray that frame before every winter though.
     
  30. Dec 4, 2019 at 9:04 AM
    #30
    JTRCY

    JTRCY New Member

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    Vehicle:
    2006 4x4 Tundra Double Cab
    I hear a lot terms floating around, but no specifics. Some people talk of rubbing some sort of oil or grease on it, others talk of spraying. What exact products and application methods and intervals are recommended?
     

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