Tacoed Tundra project

If you're speaking of the 2 empty connectors, O5 is referred by Toyota as an Option Connector for a future brake controller install that one would plug a "Tekonsha 3040-P harness" into for instance.

The other empty 3 pin connector is S8, that Toyota refers to as a "short pin" that would be needed if one had power seats/lumbar support.

 

After rereading my post this morning, i realized wasn't very clear whatsoever with my question. I do thank you for your answer though. I knew already which one the trailer plug was (05), but it's also now good to know what the S8 plug is for as well. I don't know the correct name for them, but what i'm wanting to know is about where those three red and two blue colored spade connector taps that are crimped inline into the factory wires.

And since i already have a Prodigy brake controller, i went ahead and ordered up that Tekonsha 3040-P harness last night.

 

Difficulty seeing which wires but appears from the ones I can tell, they tapped into pin 4(Blk/Yel) and 5(Blue/Whi) of IB3 that's part of Door Lock circuit. Hard to tell what colors their tapping in to IB4 but it's also part of Door Lock circuit..

Do you have the EWD for an 04, if not the below link is where you can get one OR if you can tell me what colors are tapped into on IB3/4, I can upload the pages that pertain to an 04 Door Lock circuit.

Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

What is EWD?
I do have PD locks.
Wires are-

IB3 connector wires-
black/yellow
blue/white
red/yellow
green/black

IB4 connector wire-
white/blue

 

EWD = Electrical Wiring Diagrams, which can be had at the link posted above.

The IB4 pin 8 W/L(toyota uses L for Blue) is for LH Door Courtesy Light

IB3 red/yel and green/blk should be pins 8 and 9 dealing with door locks also.



I will say I was confused initially because I saw your profile mentioning 2000 Tundra and was not getting anywhere UNTIL I remembered you are now fooling with a 2004 and borrowing from a 2000....silly me

 

I wonder if a previous owner had tapped into those wires for an aftermarket security system then.

 

I hooked up the 4wd wires today. I removed the 4wd computer control module from the 2000 4wd truck and installed into the 2004 2wd truck. It’s all plug n’ play. Even the attached points on the 2wd truck are in the exact same spot.

I had to buy a new dash bezel though. The 2000 dash vents are shorter and fatter than the 2004 dash vents. I tried swapping the dash vent extensions between the bezels but they wouldn’t play with each other. I was also hopeful to simply remove the smoked colored plastic that sticks over the top of the LCD clock (and goes around the 4wd switches), but the 2000 4wd switches are larger than the 2004 switches. So it was also a no go to swap my 2000 4wd switches into the 2004 2wd bezel. My only realistic option was to buy a $100 2003-2004 4wd bezel off of ebay. I didn’t want the burlwood version so i bought a black one. Now i’m kinda wishing that i bought the burlwood.



The 4wd plug is already prewired in the factory harness on the 2004 2wd truck.



And with the 4wd module plugged into the 2wd harness.

2000 4wd bezel on the top. 2004 2wd bezel on the bottom. Notice the different sized holes for the 4wd switches.



the vents are different sizes and lengths, so that was a bummer.



The dash all clipped back together. I did swap out the red Hazzard button from my 2000 truck. I do like the more than obviously colored button when i need to find it quickly. NOTE: the trailer brake controller. But i’m saving that install for when my pigtail harness arrives in the mail.



With the bezel back in, i then clipped together the rest of the speedo display dash.

 

Is it difficult to pull the clock out of the 2000 bezel? My FIL's truck needs a new clock (once it gets back from "being painted" for the last 2 years) but I've never messed with trying to pull just the clock.

 

you're a smart feller. Not a fart smeller. Figure out the fuse & safe way to kill the ADD to run 2lo. Show us tards how to do it.

 

I’ve had the board in and out of the back of the bezel about 10x’s so far, but i never bothered to pay attention to see what all it would take to remove just the LCD clock. I THINK it’s directly soldered to the main board, so it would be a bit of a hassle to remove. If that’s the case, you would have to wick up all of the solder at all of its connections.

 

Correct....They did not make it impossible to touch up soldering but they sure made it a challenge. The clock module has about 30 paper clip size prongs that go downwards about 1 1/2" to circuit board that one would have to wick.

 

Over here in the PacNW we have a long dormant super volcano... https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dante's_Peak#:~:text=Dante's Peak is a 1997,Linda Hamilton, and Charles Hallahan. For thousands of years there was no activity, but in 1997 it blew its top and created a pyroclastic flow that destroyed the town of Dante's Peak. The only way to survive the deadly lava flow was to out drive and out smart it by driving through a deep river in a big red suburban. The ‘Burban had a snorkel kit installed, so driving through 5’ deep water was no problem.

With the current state of affairs with our country, i’m now reading reports that the volcano will very might maybe for certainty...or not soon explode again...experts say. Taking in all that information has prompted me to be prepared for that day...SO I BOUGHT A SNORKEL KIT!

Ok, back to reality. I could care less about ANY sort of doomsday that the media has put out since about 2018. I quit watching the news or other media years and years ago, so none of that..um crap?... affects me. Which means that i won’t be attacked by indigenous volcanoes. I foresee using a snorkel primarily to keep my air filter more clean. I used to have an ARB snorkel on my YJ many years ago and I currently moved it over to my CJ project.

This snorkel was on ebay for cheap...super cheap at about $60 shipped. The package arrived today. After opening the box, my first impression is that the main body feels fairly strong. I compared it to my ARB and it feels just as strong. So that’s a good sign. I was planning on making some measurements and possibly begin to install it this afternoon, but it immediately started to rain. So it’s put on hold for a little bit. Though i’m pretty good at taking measurements and drilling holes, i’m reeeealy tempted to do the initial mockup on my wrecked 2000 truck.

It’s supposed to be dry tomorrow, so i’m conflicted on staying home and wrenching, or head out to the wrecking yard and go wrenching. There’s a super sale at the local yard and i’m looking at a 1st gen Sequoia 3rd member and front clamshell housing. It has 4.10 gears and i’m thinking about swapping them to my 3.90 geared truck. It’s not much of a jump, but it would be super simple and low cost.



Pic is of the suburban from the movie, Dante’s Peak https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=un3uZZnlH7M

 

I’m kinda at a crossroads right now. The 3rd member in the 2004 2wd has 3.9 gears with a LSD...that’s completely worn out. With one tire on the ground, i can spin the other tire very easily with my hands. I did remove the oil fill plug and did a visual confirmation that there is indeed one.

I just back from the wrecking yard about an hour ago. I found a 2001 Sequoia 4wd, and pulled the 4.10 geared 3rd member and front differential. There was a 75% off sale, so each end was only $28! I also got lucky because no one had taken the tow hook or loops yet!

So i’m contemplating on -
A- Leave my current 3.9 diffs as is.
B- Install new clutch plates in the 3.9 LSD.
C- Remove the 3.9 diffs and swap with the 4.10 diffs (and sell the worn out LSD).
D- Swap the 4.10 ring and pinion gears onto the LSD after i rebuild it.
E- Buy a Truetrac and install the 4.10 gears on it.

The funds aren’t really there at this point for an aftermarket LSD or locker, so a Truetrac really isn’t in the cards at this point (maybe next year).

I have no idea how much parts cost to rebuild the LSD. I also have no idea what parts are required to rebuild it either. It looks like a new Truetrac cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $700-ish. If it costs around $200 or so for parts to rebuild the OEM LSD, then i would be tempting to hold off on fixing it and using those funds to buy a new Truetrac. I have had all sorts of lockers and limited slips in my other vehicles, so i’m well aware of just how much they can contribute to traction.

 

hmmm...it looks like the 2004 uses a different speed sensor than the 2000 truck. The sensor plugs into the rear portion of the transfer case. Being that i have a 2000 transfer case, my 2004 4wd harness doesn’t plug into the 2000’s sensor. It also means that the 2004 speed sensor doesn’t fit the 2000 transfer case. I’m not sure what to do at this point...


the black sensor is the 2004. The silver geared sensor is from the 2000

 

Dante's Peak is a favorite of my father in law's. My favorite part is when they drive through the flowing lava river and it somehow doesn't destroy the truck.

Also love the scion with rally flaps.

 

Bummer, they were available the last time i looked, & kinda think they were less than $40.

 

I think I would choose option B. Rebuild the clutch plates. A complete rebuild kit is around 200ish bucks, but that's not what I would do. I would just replace the clutch stuff and button it back up. I have not seen one opened up at any mileage that needed the full rebuild. Guess I need to know what just the clutch's cost. Maybe the bearings don't add much? I saw you can upgrade the clutch with a Supra setup. You seem to be thrifty, which is my language. If for some reason you are not happy with it or want to upgrade to a locker, you should be able to get good money for the LSD. Here's a writeup on the LSD:

https://www.xr-underground.com/threads/how-to-upgrade-your-diff.57404/

Another Rebuild thread:
https://www.supraforums.com/threads/how-to-rebuild-the-mk3-rear-differential.836257/

 

Looks like everyone is out of stock on the rebuild kits. If they are all around $300-ish now a days, i would just pass on it and wait and buy a Truetrac at some other point in time.
https://www.randysworldwide.com/shop/ypkt100-pc-14

 

I installed an ebay/Amazon snorkel afternoon/evening. It was only $60 shipped, so i couldn’t say no. Now i can outrun killer volcanoes by driving through a river. I will now sleep better at night.


I tack welded a round piece of sheet metal over the existing airbox intake hole so that i could use it as a pilot hole to drill a larger hole. It doesn’t need to be done that way, nor have i seen it done that way, but i decided to do it anyhow.





I had some door edge trim guard in my shop that i installed over the sharp sheetmetal.




I slathered on some ultra grey RTV on the airbox pipe. Black would have been better, but i had grey in my toolbox.

 

I decided to relocate the antenna. Reason being is that the snorkel has an indentation for the antenna mast in a different location that the tundra’s. Many people choose to simply cut it off, but i really wanted to keep it.



I used a heat gun to bend the plastic antenna mast.



I had to remove the lower antenna mast bracket from the frame and reposition it forward and up.


bracket tack welded back on.


a little bit of primer over the top of the welds.



The antenna is now officially repositioned. There is also now room to refit the plastic fender liner.



It was dark out by the time i finished, so the pic isn’t great, but you do get the idea.

 

Im jelly of your shop. I've only read to you pulling the engine so far!

As a handy redneck, I'm amazed!

 

For some reason i really like that movie as well. Supposedly it was a bit of a flop, but successfully driving a pickup through hot lava more makes up for any of its shortcomings!

Thank you for the compliment on my xB. I use is primarily as a mini work van. It gets waaaay better fuel economy than my Econoline van. I live in a rural area with lots of gravel roads, so the rally armor mud flaps definitely do serve a purpose. Lots of little custom stuff in that xB...such as a ABS shutoff switch in the dash.

And another bonus find from the wrecking yard was i found a pair of Yakima cross bars with the correct style control towers that fit my existing Yak landing pads! $9 for all of the Yak crap that is plug n play with my existing setup!

 

And i feel blessed and privileged to be able to work in a shop so huge! You can fit a whoooole bunch of projects in 90’x40’ barn!

 

What’s the status on that CJ? Always wanted one.

 

Oh, that...it’s my 1984 CJ7. I was pretty big into wheelin’ back in the mid 90’s to about 2006ish. In the late 90’s i built it up with a Ramjet 350, NV450, Atlas 3.8, Currie ARB HP9 front, Terra 60 HP spool rear, 37” Boggers, and a severely modified Warn XCL coil kit. That Ramjet engine ran REALLY rich and tried to asphyxiate me a few times. I also got REALLY tired of feeding it 93 octane...especially when it only got 8mpg on the highway (when cruising in 5th gear at 2500 rpm). So i parked the jeep around 2008? About 5~6 years ago i finally installed a reflashed computer and an 02 sensor kit. It’s supposed to let the engine run on a lower octane AND run a whole lot less rich! Once i installed all of that stuff (5~6) years ago, i fired the jeep back up and it ran just fine...buuut i never did a test drive. And so it sits again. I have no desire to drive it, yet no desire to sell it either. I have another CJ project in my shop. I stretched the tub and frame 10”. I have a TJ 4.0 engine, NV3550, Dana 300, and a Klune V underdrive planetary box installed. I had planned to do a simple OME 2.5” spring under with 35 tires, but now i’m thinking about building a 3/4 link suspension for it. But i haven’t pulled the plug on that, so that too also is a stalled project. I’ve been riding and racing dirtbikes more and more for these past 20 years (i really really like the physical challenge of dirtbikes), and wheeling less and less. I suppose it’s all a phase though?

I think the CJ has been siting here since around 2008? It’s coming towards the end of 2023 now. I’ll let you guys do the math on that.

 

I installed the trailer brake today. I think 2003 was the first year that the 1st gen tundra came with the trailer pigtail built into the stock wire harness? Anyhow it sure makes it easy to plumb in a trailer brake with a simple adapter harness.

At some point someone had used a crimp butt connector on one of the wires that leads to the ignition key. It was driving me bonkers how ghetto it was so i delved into my milk crate-o’- wire harnesses. I found a black/white white that was the same gauge as the crimped ignition wire. I soldered it into place. I also installed heat shrink over the top of another couple wires that had a crimp splice connector on them.

 

I installed the trailer brake in a high and tight location. My foot or knee will never be able to bonk against it.

 

This afternoon swapped out my front 3.91 diff to a 4.10 gear ratio. Since my cv axles and driveline were not installed just yet (and no oil in the diff), the process went really fast. I timed myself and it took about 9~10 minutes to get the diff out of the frame and into my lap. Reinstalling the 4.10 diff took about twice that time.

Under the cloak of darkness this evening, i swapped out the rear 3rd member to a 4.10 as well. No real surprises except that the brake shoes were all but gone.


My brake drums on the 2004 truck were also shot. The drums on my 2000 truck are still good, so i’d like to swap the drums. The only thing is that toyota is showing that the drums are different. I don’t know in what way though. The exterior is a little bit different shaped, but the inside appears exactly the same. My 2000 drum physically fits on the 2004 truck, and the 2004 drum fits on the 2000 truck. Has anyone come across this before?







The pic doesn’t do it justice. There’s about 1/32” left of friction material left on most of the shoe.

 

so here’s a comparison between the 2000 and the 2004 brake drums. Both drums have the exact same specs on the id. What is different is the outside profile shape. The 2004 drum has a bit more meat. From what i can tell, both drums are 100% interchangeable, but toyota the parts numbers are different, so that would mean that the early model drums are simply not superseded to the later design.

I would have liked to keep using the 2004 drums, but they were too worn out. Luckily my 2000 drums were still able to be turned down. I was also hoping to use my existing used 2000 brake shoes, but they have a very slightly different design. I spent about an hour trying to order new shoes at napa online, but the website wasn’t being cooperative. It was getting a bit frustrating, so i simply ordered up a pair of oem shoes from Greenville Toyota. I have a feeling it might be a couple weeks before they arrive though.

 

NAPA site is sluggish and weird/slow here in MI too, so it's not your end. Their site is just jacked. Great info here on your build, thx