SUPERCHARGE OR NOT

I figured that part numbers would be a good place to start, prices can change over time. Supply and demand.

 

Super unleaded. Cost?

I bet I use my supercharger, for its intended purpose, wayyyyy more than y’all use those big ass upsized tires

and how much “mileage” do those tires cost you?

how about the “warranty”?

This is not a “need” issue. Its a “want” issue

the s/c, as installed, rarely creates boost under normal Usage. The bypass gadget works quite well. So any concerns about wear and tear are questionable

like I said earlier, a good tune makes the blown tundra bullet proof. Or thereabouts


Just get it
Tune it on a dyno
live A little better

life is good

 

Here in east houston, a lot of the Hispanic brothers put loud ass exhausts on their chevys

it’s all fun and games till they try to pass me.

 

I must go through more gas than you lol

 

possible. I based it on my avg of 25 gallons a week


I pulled a trailer a couple weeks ago. The s/c makes it effortless. However, instant gas hog when the bypass closes.

flat roads, I got 11. Like most do with a trailer

over hills, 3mpg. Using s5 tow/haul.

I averaged 12 from houston to belton. Not bad and probably similar to n/a numbers. 62 mph

 

What is the goal? Towing? Less gear hunting on the highway? Passing angry Ram drivers?

At the risk of disappointing the forum’s boosted brethren, I think I would do gears first. I’m running skinny 35s, and I think 5.29s would make a world of difference, especially when doing work. Of course that would probably be enough to get me curious, and then I’d go ahead and boost it.

This truck has power and reliability in spades. I think its major shortcomings are rear leafs and gearing. Even with the 4.30 rear end, the overall gearing isn’t fantastic.

That said, the engine has loads of power. This old dinosaur 5.7 makes 90% of its max torque at 2600rpm. That’s awesome for a naturally aspirated engine. Just seems like boosting it with the kinda weak gearing isn’t getting the full advantage of the boost, especially if you’re on 35s or 37s. If you’re on stock tires, probably a different story.

 

No anger here. My gears are swapped w/o SCing first

 

I pretty much always agree with what you have to say on this forum. You’re like my spirit animal. That said, from personal experience on this particular point I think the gearing doesn’t even matter when there’s that much power on tap! I’m on 34s with stock gearing, and I have an extra 500ish pounds I’m lugging around with the bed cap, steel bumper, 65 lb tires, steel RCI skid, running boards, AALs, airbags, tools etc. and I was able to achieve a dragy verified 4.6 seconds to 60. I don’t see how much better it can get with this old 6 speed transmission on a 6k lb truck. There are others with similar mods and 5.29s and we are all in that same ballpark to 60. Might 4.88s or 5.29s shave a tenth off? Possibly, but is it worth the extra $2500 expense I guess is the question. Towing wise the power is also fantastic, borderline ridiculous even with the stock gears.

 

Hey guys. Trying to buy a TRD used supercharger for my 2011 tundra. Is there anyway to confirm if it’s for a naturally aspirated 5.7 or the flex fuel. Seller isn’t sure for some reason… not sure if Toyota made a supercharger for the Flex Fuel E85 tundra. Any help I’d-ing it or where to look for a model or type number would be great!

 

Ha. Likewise!

Wow. Is there really a negligible difference in 4.30 vs 5.29 when you have a blower on 34s? I would think any difference would widen slightly with 35s, more with 37s. Just speculation, though. I admit I have no personal experience with either. I watch pretty much every SC and gears thread on the forum, and I'm just trying to put together as accurate a picture as possible. @reywcms swears by the blower on 4.30s/37s. I can be convinced that gears are negligible when you're running a blower. But many others on the forum with 5.29s/35s and no blower say that their truck woke right up, tows much better, holds 6th on the highway no problem. That alone might be enough for me–5.29s with a limited slip in the rear and a locker in the front.

Depending on the OP's goal(s), gears might do the trick.

Any of y'all SC'ers in middle Tennessee, I'd love to A/B our trucks.

 

Buddy of mine asked HP Tuners if he should do a gear swap and they flat out told him "nah, wouldn't make much difference" (he's SC'ed)

 

Yeah and guess which one's cooler?

 

Whipple and 4.88s on the old man’s rig and he wouldn’t even of bothered. Does it help with towing the trailer sure but the other 99% not needed

 

My Sequoia is Flex & the SC is not, I made it work. Except for bypassing the fuel switching valve they are the same. The issues are tune related not hardware.

The Flex fuel pump looks exactly like a Walbro 450, if I had it to do over, I'd have left the fuel pump alone. (if I had fuel issues I could have swapped it later)