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Starting issue

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Rex Kramer, Sep 15, 2017.

  1. Sep 15, 2017 at 11:55 AM
    #1
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer [OP] Vinyl Spinner

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    My '07 5.7L presents an occasional issue when starting soon after I've turned it off to go into a store for less than 5 minutes. When I get back in the truck, I turn the key - it starts, feels like it loads up, then dies. I turn the key off, then try to re-start and the starter just runs until I remove the key... it runs in the off position. Stop, wait, and it starts right up - no smoke, no warning lights. no indication of a problem.

    I remember reading something similar happening with somebody's Tundra, but I can't find the post.
     
  2. Oct 13, 2017 at 5:32 AM
    #2
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer [OP] Vinyl Spinner

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    My HOT restart problem continues... it occurs when temperatures are 88 or above - it was 91 yesterday.
     
  3. Oct 13, 2017 at 8:03 AM
    #3
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    You need three things to run a gasoline motor. Air, fuel, spark.

    Now from your first post, the starter running until you stop it tells me you either don't have spark or fuel.

    Check your EFI #1 25 amp fuse. Look for corrosion in the stabs. You live in a place with high humidity, and could have a corrosion issue. In fact, I might pull every fuse in the PDC and install it several times. I had an issue like this with our GE Mark VI terminal boards at work. We were getting diagnostic alarms, trips (that is a 250k dollar problem per occurance) and it was light corrosion on the terminal boards. We now go through a process to resolve this issue.

    How does the throttle body look? Ever clean it? MAF sensor clean?
     
  4. Oct 13, 2017 at 9:15 AM
    #4
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer [OP] Vinyl Spinner

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    I will check the things you listed...

    The things that must be happening for this issue to occur: Drive about 10 miles, park the truck and then attempt to restart it a few minutes later with humid air temps near, or above 90. This never happens when the engine is cold, or air temperatures are below 88 or so... it's strictly a HOT problem.
     
    ColoradoTJ likes this.
  5. Oct 13, 2017 at 9:32 AM
    #5
    Nor7

    Nor7 Chilton Manual Guy

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    Something similar happened to a chevy I used to have. It was losing fuel line pressure, if you're having the same problem you can diagnose it by doing this:

    *turn the key to on, then back to off. Repeat once or twice to prime the fuel line. If it starts right up with no problem right after that then its a fuel pressure issue.
     
    NewImprovedRon and ColoradoTJ like this.
  6. Oct 13, 2017 at 9:38 AM
    #6
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    I had the same issue, on my Pontiac G6. What caused it was the remote start connections were corroded. If you have an aftermarket remote starter, you might check into that as well.
     
  7. Oct 13, 2017 at 10:00 AM
    #7
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer [OP] Vinyl Spinner

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    The truck always starts... this problem only materializes when it's driven in HOT humid weather, parked for a few minutes, then restarted. There is never any smoke from the tailpipe, but the inside of the tip of the exhaust pipe is black with soot.

    Also, I can hear the fuel pump come on when the key is turned to the 'ON' position, it's always been this way.
     
  8. Oct 13, 2017 at 10:37 AM
    #8
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    Try this^^^^
     
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  9. Oct 13, 2017 at 10:45 AM
    #9
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer [OP] Vinyl Spinner

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    The electric fuel pump is self priming, it's working as it should.
     
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  10. Oct 13, 2017 at 10:58 AM
    #10
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    Calibrated Power 5 Tune pack, Allison 1000 tune, PPE deep trans pan, Cold/Hot CAC pipes, Banks CAI, PCV reroute, resonator delete, S&B 62 gal fuel tank, B&W GN hitch
    This is a weird one.
     
    Rex Kramer[OP] likes this.
  11. Oct 13, 2017 at 11:02 AM
    #11
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    Could be the ignition switch/key/immobilizer. When it gets to a certain temperature, it may make one of the solders expand or contract in a certain way that causes this.
     
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  12. Oct 13, 2017 at 11:11 AM
    #12
    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

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    A fuel rail pressure and bleed-off check is where I'd be going. If the rail pressure drops more than the allowable spec after you've shut the engine off, you probably have an injector leaking, flooding the intake manifold. Your symptoms fit.
     
  13. Oct 13, 2017 at 11:17 AM
    #13
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer [OP] Vinyl Spinner

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    Wouldn't that cause smoke at start up?

    And, wouldn't it be worse when the engine is cold?
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2017
  14. Oct 13, 2017 at 11:48 AM
    #14
    scpete24

    scpete24 Duuuuuuude

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    Random shot here, but we had a similar issue to what you are describing with my boat (350 big block). Would start up normal when cool then it would run rough and when I tried to restart, it would turn over but not fire. Turned out the fuel cooler was never installed and the fuel was vaporizing in the line before it could reach the injectors. Fuel cooler installed, never had the issue again. It would only occur when it was hot like you are describing.

    Then again not even sure our trucks have fuel coolers...
     
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  15. Oct 13, 2017 at 11:54 AM
    #15
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer [OP] Vinyl Spinner

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    I have experienced 'vapor lock' with engines using carburetors, but not on an unmodified fuel injected engine.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2017
  16. Aug 6, 2018 at 6:31 AM
    #16
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer [OP] Vinyl Spinner

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    Follow-up report:

    The last time I experienced the problem was during the first month AFTER the dealer replaced the fuel pump, and cut a new immobilizer key. Since then I have not been able to duplicate the problem even during these hot Summer months... my 12 mo. / 12K warranty on the repair runs out 09/28/18.

    I think the computer, immobilizer, and new key just needed time to get in sync. Also, I don't believe the original fuel pump was bad but I can't prove it and the new one is functioning perfectly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2018
    NewImprovedRon likes this.

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