Starter or Computer?

Have another troubleshooting opportunity:

Just bought a 2011 CrewMax 4x4 w/ 5.7L FFV with 130k miles. Changed all fluids and battery to start. Replaced a battery that was undersized with an Optima red top. The truck died when I first turned it over - "weird", I thought. About four days later I started it (it usually starts right up), turned it off, and tried to start it again about 5-10 minutes later... nothing but a "click". An hour (and several failed attempts) later I was able to get it started by completely disconnecting the battery (disconnecting negative lead only had no effect) for 5+ minutes. It started up again like a champ. About five days later, same thing.

I was first thinking it was a bad battery connection. Since it's happened twice I'm thinking it may be the starter, but why would disconnecting the battery completely (resetting the computer) have any effect? Wondering if it's an electrical/computer thing...?

 

First question, do you have a CEL (check engine light) on the dash?

 

No lights. Never have been.

 

So all was fine until you changed the battery...ummmmm. Get an Interstate and forget about the other crap out there.

 

That should rule out the computer. Not that it couldn't still be a bad computer there are enough computers on these trucks that it would throw a CEL if there was a bad computer.

It sounds like it's the starter not getting a good ground possibly. I would start with the starter wiring to make sure it's secure and not coroded. If you have a multimeter you might be able to check if it's getting current to the starter.

 

This^^^

Specifically, check where the ground from the battery is grounded.

 

It had logged a few codes that hadn't triggered a light - general engine malfunction, some air bag codes, etc. Guys at a dealership separate from the one that had the vehicle suggested no big deal because no lights were on. Chalked them up to hiccups.

Truck came from north Texas. No rust - super clean underneath and in the bed. Really, really dusty, though. Changed all fluids when I first got her. Not sure the guts were as clean as the exterior. All fluids grey and the rear differential had a couple of shavings. I let my cousin at Toyota do the transmission but will drop the pan myself next time.

 

I agree with @zombie it could be the battery. Do you still have the old battery, or another battery, to test if it will start?

 

Leads from the battery are corroded. I will start there. Thank you!

 

Had the batter checked earlier today. It checked out okay. Has plenty of juice for the start. It's just not turning over when it happens. Disconnect for five minutes and no problems.

 

You may need to have someone with Techstream do a Zero Point Calibration. It sounds like the truck may have gotten hit. My '07 was rear ended, no airbags deployed, but it triggered the SRS sensors. The ZPC should resolve those. Some codes are hardcoded and can't be deleted, but most can be cleared with the ZPC I have been told.

 

Thank you. I'll ask about that too. Had a clean CarFax but there is a dent in the rear bumper so it could have been backed into something (like a trailer).

 

I'm with you now, Zombie. Wouldn't have gotten the Optima but the dealership was supposed to install a new battery but didn't, so on them. I thought more $$ = better, but I don't think so in this case.

 

The leads aren't corroded - that's the thing. The wires, however, have seen better days.

I thought bad connection initially (or bad leads). They definitely need to be replaced, but you would think securing the connection would fix the problem - not completely disconnecting, waiting, and reconnecting.

 

Battery & leads...

 

I vote for new “proper” terminals and hardware ,and to wire brush the wires.

 

Thank you again. Sorry for confusing the terminals with the wires to the terminals in my corroded/not corroded comments.

Still weird to me that a computer reset is the "fix", but I guess that's where are are these days.

 

Nothing wrong with your Red Top, but those battery leads make me cringe....

 

It might just be that when you pull the negative terminal it moves and makes contact in the cable, then when the engine starts it shakes it loose again.

 

I've seen worse..........so no problems with old battey? Put it back in and see what happens. You could of got a bad battery, or was it supposed to be charged overnight before install. IDK thinkin out the box.

 

Also use a Smart Charger that has AGM settings for your Red Top battery

Using a regular charger can fry the cells

 

Toyota’s with drive by wire all die once the battery is replaced the first time you restart, unless you clean the throttle. Your issue likely stems from poor electrical connection between the terminals (I see this a lot with the marine terminals)


Clean the throttle body and put some Toyota terminals on and clean up the harness end that connectors to the terminal really well and go from there I’d say.

could totally be battery too, I’ve had pretty bad luck with optima as of late

 

^^^^^ This right here.. I have the same issue, it is your connections. I have an Optima Yellow top that doesn't fit within the battery tie down, so it slides around. Every now and then I'll go to start and it clicks and nothing, everything is dead, so I pop the hood and slightly wiggle the ground while pressing the unlock button on the key fob, because the alarm tends to go off when I do this. First start up after a battery/cpu reset always dies quickly, but on second starts its fine. If your battery is dying, cuz mine tends to, you may need to idle it for about 20min and hit the gas every now and then because it will drop the idle and stall out, may need a throttle body clean like stated above.

What is the general engine malfunction that you stated??
My starter died on me, but it didn't give me a code at first, just 2 grace starts but it gave me a code, but by then it was dead... be advised.

SRS airbag codes are on this site as well, I do have some SRS/airbag codes, and I've never been in an accident, word on the street its the driver side buckle that is malfunctioning and triggering a code. Before you replace it double check the codes and ensure the codes are the same.

 

I bet there is bad wiring in your negative and when you move it to disconnect you are able to make a circuit then over time as it sits in its original position connected to the battery you loose connection.

 

Would agree with this, but there is probably a reason why the ground cable is forced damn near to the base of the post. I remember the service department would jam it all the way to the bottom of the post to the point where I needed to remove it for some work (ie. MAF cleaning) it would almost be impossible to remove the terminal without using some leverage wrapped in a rag.