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Starter help.....

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by TxTundraGuy89, Jul 5, 2015.

  1. Jul 5, 2015 at 4:29 PM
    #1
    TxTundraGuy89

    TxTundraGuy89 [OP] New Member

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    Hey guys really need some help, I have an 07 Toyota Tundra 5.7iforce, having to replace the starter....well got to the point of trying to loosen up the bolts connecting manifold to exhaust in this process using an impact rounded it off....now is it still the lefty loosey righty tighty? Also since the hopes are shot, is it possible to take off the 2nd part of the exhaust and remove it that way?

    I need all the help I can possibly get, I need to get this done as soon as I can and don't want to fork out the shop bill.
     
  2. Jul 5, 2015 at 4:41 PM
    #2
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Wish I could help but I haven't removed the starter before.
     
  3. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:04 PM
    #3
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    How to remove rounded bolts

    Think I'm going to get one of these
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iWM3Ue1ojdE


    You could also use a Dremel or cutoff wheel to make a groove for a screwdriver, but if it's hard to get off already a screwdriver doesn't have munch leverage.

    If you have a welder you could weld on a nut or bolt to the top of the stripped one.

    Highly recommend soaking the bolt in PB blaster
     
  4. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:09 PM
    #4
    TxTundraGuy89

    TxTundraGuy89 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah too bad they don't have it local looks like it would come in handy right now.

    I can get the PB blaster from autozone or some place like that huh?

    I mean do I need to act as if i'm tightening it for it to come off? Cause I don't see how it can be so dang tight and there's no bolt or nothing on top.
     
  5. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:12 PM
    #5
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Bolt should be normal with counterclockwise removal
     
  6. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:12 PM
    #6
    TxTundraGuy89

    TxTundraGuy89 [OP] New Member

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    Well it got rounded off by going counterclockwise
     
  7. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:13 PM
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    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    PB blaster can be found at any auto store
     
  8. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:14 PM
    #8
    TxTundraGuy89

    TxTundraGuy89 [OP] New Member

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    Definitely going to buy some and let it soak, cause I mean they are retardely tight, I figured the impact would break it loose and well it did worse.
     
  9. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:22 PM
    #9
    Sean266

    Sean266 #ThinBlueLine Staff Member

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    You can try WD-40 too. I had to use a breaker tool on the wife's Jeep after the impact was beginning to strip it.
     
  10. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:23 PM
    #10
    TxTundraGuy89

    TxTundraGuy89 [OP] New Member

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    So since mine is completely rounded off should I just use an extractor to get that one out and use pb blaster to hopefully loosen the others up?
     
  11. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:24 PM
    #11
    Wynnded

    Wynnded Wait, what?

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    Can you go to the next assembly point of the exhaust, the junction in front of the muffler? Maybe that will allow you to get the manifold out, or at least out of the way enough to get the starter swapped. I know that there isn't much room the the engine bay, I spent 8 hours in mine yesterday for something should've only taken two.
     
  12. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:27 PM
    #12
    TxTundraGuy89

    TxTundraGuy89 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah I can get to it. Just afraid same thing will happen, not to mention some dummy tightened my lug nuts so tight an impact wont even break them look so no way to even remove the manifold. I'm 250 and I was bending the traditional tire tool. And advice on how to get them off?
     
  13. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:33 PM
    #13
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Problem with impact is it hits hard and if it not a good fit with the socket it can round the bolt. Always best to use a socket wrench with extension or breaker bar to keep consistent force on it
     
  14. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:35 PM
    #14
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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  15. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:37 PM
    #15
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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  16. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:38 PM
    #16
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    PB Blaster is highly recommended over wd40 as it actually eats through rust and gunk

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:40 PM
    #17
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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  18. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:58 PM
    #18
    Wynnded

    Wynnded Wait, what?

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    You're getting thwarted at every avenue, dude. I think that about the only access to get that starter out is through the wheel well. You're going to have to get the wheel off too. At the rate you're encountering things being bound up, you might wind up having to get help from a shop.
     
  19. Jul 5, 2015 at 6:06 PM
    #19
    TxTundraGuy89

    TxTundraGuy89 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah i'm seriously hoping I can get things going my way because it's my only form of transportation.

    I have to get it fixed. Going to spray some pb blaster on the bolts trying to take out and say a prayer they break loose, and then idk what to do about the dang lug nuts.
     
  20. Jul 5, 2015 at 6:31 PM
    #20
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Found on another forum:

    You'll need 10, 12, 14 MM wrenches and sockets. Have a good selection of extensions on hand to make taking the manifold nuts off easier. Remove the following... 1. Neg battery cable. 2. Front right wheel. 3. Rubber wheel well covers (2) 4. Passenger side cats/mid exhaust pipe. Take your time when removing the Oxygen sensor clips. 5. There are two heat shields on the truck body above the cats and the exhaust manifold, take them off so you don't bugger them all up when taking the manifold off. 6. Remove the oil dipstick tube, remove dip stick first then the tube. 10mm bolt on head, hiding under water heater pipe. 7. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. 3 bolts slide it back along the frame toward the rear. 8. Remove the exhaust manifold, 8, 12mm nuts. Don't forget the air injection connection on the left side of the manifold, 2, 10mm nuts. Again slide the manifold rearward along the frame. 9. Remove the starter heat shield, starter bolts, 2, 14mm. 10. Remove the starter cable clip and slide the starter out, remove the nut holding the positive cable to the solenoid and take off the solenoid exciter wire. 11. Have a drink, you'll need it by now. Take a break. Installation is reversing the steps, I put the dipstick tube in very last. I also removed the EFI fuse and cranked the new starter to be sure it was working OK, before installing the manifold. When installing the manifold work from the center nuts out and torque down in 3 to 4 stages. I bought a new manifold gasket, but I'd bet my old one would have worked fine. Take your chances...I reused the donut gaskets in the pipe and the air injection gasket without issue. I also added a 2 gauge 24" pig tail to the starter side of the solenoid to help in starting the truck if the solenoid ever goes out.
     
  21. Jul 5, 2015 at 6:33 PM
    #21
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Another:

    1. Jack up vehicle 2. Remove passenger tire 3. Remove front and rear rubber splash guards from the wheel well 4. Remove 2 corrugated looking aluminum heat shields from around the exaust manifold and the starter. 5. Remove 1 galvanized steel looking heat shield from the exaust manifold. 6. Remove lower starter bolt 7. Upper bolt is difficult, but you can reach it through the wheel well with a 14 mm wrench. I had to add an extension to break it free. 8. Slide the starter back and rotate the solenoid toward you. Pull the plastic hinged plate from the wiring connection and remove the 12mm bolt 9. Remove the solenoid connection. Pull the wires away removing them from a metal clip on the frame. 10. Now you can twist the starter out and away from it's mounting position. This is where you realize the reason for the tech instructions calling out removing the manifold. The starter will not fit between the frame and manifold to remove it. 11. Solution!!! Remove the large engine mount bolt. Then jack the passenger side of the motor up an inch. The starter can now be removed. 12. Reinstall everything and be on your way.
     
  22. Jul 5, 2015 at 6:38 PM
    #22
    TxTundraGuy89

    TxTundraGuy89 [OP] New Member

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    I like this one but the engine mount bolt is what sounds tricky to me.
     
  23. Jul 5, 2015 at 7:19 PM
    #23
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Does sound iffy.
    @LOTSOFTOYS what is the standard way you remove them? Any tips or tricks?
     
  24. Jul 5, 2015 at 7:21 PM
    #24
    TxTundraGuy89

    TxTundraGuy89 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah it sounds super iffy cause of everything that has to be done, not to mention tilting the engine just isn't that much of a comforting idea.
     
  25. Jul 5, 2015 at 7:48 PM
    #25
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Yea not comforting for me either
     
  26. Jul 5, 2015 at 8:02 PM
    #26
    Sean266

    Sean266 #ThinBlueLine Staff Member

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    If you aren't comfortable with it, and can't get the help, I would consider taking it to the shop if you can afford it.
     
  27. Jul 5, 2015 at 8:04 PM
    #27
    TxTundraGuy89

    TxTundraGuy89 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah the bad thing is I can't afford the shop if I was at home I could but being 1k miles away I cant
     
  28. Jul 5, 2015 at 8:25 PM
    #28
    Sean266

    Sean266 #ThinBlueLine Staff Member

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    I know this sounds horrible, but have you looked into traveling mechanics with solid reviews?
     
  29. Jul 5, 2015 at 8:25 PM
    #29
    TxTundraGuy89

    TxTundraGuy89 [OP] New Member

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    Honestly I haven't.
     
  30. Jul 5, 2015 at 8:45 PM
    #30
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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