Sound system install help

Having a hard time finding good information about my specific trucks wiring, I’m installing new amplifiers and speakers into my non jbl no factory amplifier 06 double cab. I need to know if I need a wiring harness or if I can splice connections between factory wiring, new head unit harness, and new amp/speaker wiring.

 

Welcome to the forum..

Are you keeping the stock HU/radio?

Use one of these to replace the HU.

$9 Scosche TA02BCB Stereo Wiring Harness Compatible with Select Non-Amplified 1987-21 Geo, Lexus, Toyota, Scion and Subaru Vehicles. - Wire Harness for Car Stereo. Check Vehicle List Below for Your Model

Amazon.com: Scosche TA02BCB Stereo Wiring Harness Compatible with Select 1986-20 Toyota, Lexus, Scion and Subaru Vehicles - Aftermarket Radio Wire Harness for Car Stereo . Check Vehicle List Below for Your Model : Industrial & Scientific

$8 Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker

Amazon.com: Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker : Electronics

 

There is usually a kit you can purchase for your vehicle and the aftermarket stereo that includes the needed wiring harnesses/adapters


Others may have more specifics

 

Your truck may have a separate OEM amp between the radio and the speakers..
But being non-JBL maybe not.
@shifty` could help you more than I.

 

I’m using an aftermarket pioneer head unit

 

Crutchfield will also make a plug'n'play adapter for you based on your equipment choices.

 

Just curious, so you have an external amp now, for all of the speakers? Usually the higher end head units, like your pioneer, have 50 or 60 W output, which is plenty for most aftermarket set ups

Mine only has an external amp for the subwoofer

 

I’ve checked behind rear seats and behind/below factory head unit and there aren’t any amps, where else could it be

 

the head unit only gives 14 rms per channel I need 60 so I purchased a an amp for the new speakers as well, amp rack is already assembled and ready to go

 

I'd run RCA cables to the new amp(s) from the HU and run new speaker wires to the doors from the amp.
That's how I did my 2005 DC..

I had 3 amps under the front seat (I had a bench seat) and a custom sub box on the rear floor.

Good luck.

 

my plan was to run rcas to the new head unit and splice new speaker wire from the aftermarket amp to the pre existing wire in the harnesses attached to the oem head unit so I didn’t have to run wire through the door molexs

 

You may not have one, my 2005 DC didn't..

 

I figured I didn’t but the wiring behind the head unit is just stressing me out it’s my first time doing anything like this and I’m having a hard time identifying wires

 

Here are your speaker wiring harness colors from the HU.
At least they should be....





You can find wiring diagrams here ..
Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

I know this may look confusing, but it's pretty simple..


The R1 connector will be your front speakers the R2 will be the rear speakers.
R2 also has battery, accessory power, and ground wires to connect to the HU.



R1 wires are designated with A in the circle
R2 with B in the circle
The numbers next to each circle represent the numbered pin on the connector.



I hope this helps..

 

I edited the above so if you already read it, read it again.

Good luck..

This should do it..
Just keep up with your OEM wiring and diagram.
Your adapter may have different colors..

Your HU should have a remote wire to turn your amps on and off..

$8 Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker

Amazon.com: Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker : Electronics

 

thank you for the help means a lot, will post if I have any other questions thanks!

 

I understand the pink and violet is my speaker input, is the blue and red for the tweeter? And when installing the new tweeter and speaker should I just cut the red and blue wire and wire the new crossover to the pink and violet wires?

 

Just wrapped up a 6 hour drive, so I totally missed this. And now I’ve gotta setup stuff, but pooping first. @caden_s did you already see the Audio section of the megathread? https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

It gives an assload of details on what you’ll need. It should probably be the first stop and first reco for anyone looking to upgrade their system.

 

I’ve done a fair amount of research and am likely just overthinking a lot but my biggest hiccup is tying everything in on the old wiring harnesses to the new head unit I think my problem is not having a metra harness to simplify things but I have one ordered and will see if that makes things doable for me

 

It looks like all your factory harnesses are intact, am I wrong? If so, everything you need is in that thread I linked. In the audio section.

I can’t recommend Crutchfield enough. They’ll get you all your adapters and such.and at a price that often beats scAmazon.

I think you’ll still need to cut one harness in the front doors. I remember @Cummins3500 having to figure that out. And I tag him on all these double cab install threads. He probably hates it. The best part about Crutchfield is they give you unlimited phone and chat support for install, and great warranties.

 

This is what @shifty` was referring to.
Audio, audio upgrades and cameras...

• I'll say this first: DON'T BE A FRIGGIN' DOUCHE! Don't be that asshole who cuts the factory wiring harnesses to install a new stereo. There are a ton of cheap plug-and-play adapter harnesses you can buy. Pony up the extra $10-20 for a quality adapter harness and don't cut your factory wiring.
• Use proper wiring. Either butt splice, crimp, or solder. Don't use wire nuts, electrical tape, scotchloks, quicktaps, and other BS, they're garbage. If you must tap a circuit, use Posi-Taps to avoid damaging wire sheaths.

 

My biggest hold up is that third harness, the metra harness has two so I’m not sure how it plays into everything else, I can’t remember if it was plugged into the oem stereo or not when I pulled it out and it doesn’t seem to connect to the oem stereo but seems like it plugs into itself. I can’t find detailed break downs of each harness and what to do when converting them to an aftermarket unit

 

Nah, that’s not everything. But if OP can’t bother to read that thread, that specific section, which has all the info he needs, and isn’t willing to shop with Crutchfield who will also give ample handholding at zero extra cost, I can’t really help someone who isn’t willing to read and ask questions based on what was read.

I will paste the pertinent section with all the answers and links to info he needs. I’m not willing to re-type all this shit - that thread exists for a reason. I’ll lead a horse to water, not gonna force em to drink

(not trying to sound like a dick, but if you can’t make a concerted effort to help yourself, how the hell is anyone supposed to help you?)


Audio, audio upgrades and cameras...

• I'll say this first: DON'T BE A FRIGGIN' DOUCHE! Don't be that asshole who cuts the factory wiring harnesses to install a new stereo. There are a ton of cheap plug-and-play adapter harnesses you can buy. Pony up the extra $10-20 for a quality adapter harness and don't cut your factory wiring.
• Use proper wiring. Either butt splice, crimp, or solder. Don't use wire nuts, electrical tape, scotchloks, quicktaps, and other BS, they're garbage. If you must tap a circuit, use Posi-Taps to avoid damaging wire sheaths.
• These trucks were fairly well-equipped for the era with three basic radio setups: (1) A JBL radio with external JBL amplifier, (2) a "premium" radio with external OEM amplifier, or (3) a standard radio with no amplifier. If you have the JBL radio, it should have the JBL logo silkscreened onto the radio's face and amp, JBL brands everything with their logo.
• Before you install an aftermarket head unit, you must identify whether your truck has an OEM amplifier, you'll need to adapt or bypass it to avoid issues! Read this thread for more info on factory amp locations and what's needed to bypass it for aftermarketstereos. There are ways to retain the factory amp if you really want to, but ... just go read that thread and its replies. To see what adapters you need (if you have an amp) check this post. To see what aftermarket radio others on here are running, read this thread. DISCLAIMER: Confirm fitment of any part numbers provided here by going to Crutchfield's or Metra's website before you commit to buying!
• If you're looking to stuff a sub in the rear of your truck ... RC trucks, you'll need to use a wedge box behind the seat, or an under-seat shallow sub. AC trucks, Q-Logic makes a dual 8" box that goes under the rear passenger seat, replacing the under-seat steel cage. DC trucks, any of the storage cubbies under the rear seats can be repurposed for 8" subs and potentially 10", several people here have done installs with 3 x 8" subs.
• For AC owners, your rear doors have ample room for a 6x9" speaker, if that's your desire. As someone who worked in the industry, I'd take a 6x9" over a 6" component any day, I've seen guys do some pretty amazing stuff w/6x9s.
• Steering wheel controls and adaptation... To answer all your Q's, check this thread!
• For AC/RC trucks, the metalbracket used for the door tweeters can be repurposed to install any number of aftermarket components, example here.
• Consider buying through Crutchfield, not only for theincredible technical support, but they ensure you'll have all the wiring adapters and install accessories you need to for the most-plug-and-play experience possible. Free phone support from audio enthusiasts. Don't hesitate to call and talk to a technicalsalesperson to lay out your system before buying! It's also free, and they're super knowledgeable, they'll guide you in the rightdirection. To boot, their pricing is inexpensive - doesn't always beat scAmazon, but you're guaranteed to get non-counterfeit, non-grey market stuff with full, no-hassle extended warranty and support, which Amazon can't offer.
• For an example camera install using an aftermarket head unit, check this post.

 

Oh, and verify your Crutchfield install sheet. Metro has a problem we found helping people here recently, where Metra isn’t sending their amp bypass harnesses (for non-JBL, at least) with improper pinout, four pins are shifted over from where they should be, so no audio is heard. Crutchfield’s install sheet shows the correct pinout, the harness has the wrong pin layout and can be fixed. There’s a thread right now in the 1st page of threads with more info and pics.

 

I read both pages of that thread prior to posting and just reread it I did not find anything specific to the setup in my vehicle, no further information on the non amplified systems or wire harnesses that match what I have in my vehicle. I cannot find good information for my specific setup I don’t know what I’m looking at this is my first time installing a head unit or doing any kind of wiring period. I have spoken to crutchfield and they weren’t sure what to do for me because I was told they didn’t have information on 06 tundras without amplifiers.

 

IF no amplifier, standard harness as described here from the links above, should be the part ending in 1761.

If you need to cross-reference the pinout of that to what you currently have in your truck, here is Crutchfield's install sheet for that part which they would send with your purchase. @1lowlife already did you a solid and looked up wiring diagrams to point out what is what.

For that 1761 harness, the smaller plug with the purple/green wires plugs into the smaller plug you showed earlier with the white/yellow/red/black wire, and the oher plug plugs into the wider plug. Then you just match up those wires with your aftermarket head unit wiring, properly butt splice it together, which we can help with if needed.

What additional info do you need? That 1761 harness alone, if you have no amp, should allow you to install a new head unit. Get that wired in and up/going, then save replacing speakers as your next step, once that's working. One bite at a time, since you're just getting started.

​

 

And just to be absurdly clear. With that Metra 1761 adapter harness, the plug-in will go like this - then you will take the open-ends of the wiring shown on the right, and attach that to your new head unit's harness - yellow to yellow, red to red, purple to purple, green to green, white to white, grey to grey, etc. Easy peasy. CRIMP THOSE properly, don't bullshit it. And don't use the type of crimpers Crutchfield shows in their stuff. If you need to know what to buy, holler. Me and others may sound like dicks, but we want to get you doing things the right way.

 

I understand those two harnesses it’s just the third that I pictured that was next to them, I’m not sure if it’s something I need to leave alone or if it was plugged into the head unit, I’m clear on speaker wire colors splicing the connections and what connections need to be made to have a functioning system I just don’t want to miss something after assembly so if all I have to worry about is the first two harnesses that are plugged in side by side then I’m okay. I’ll picture said third harness. Sorry for being difficult. Also I already have the 1761 harness on order.

 

Sorry, I missed that part. I actually don’t recognize that harness with the two different thicker blue jumper wires. But it’s possible it’s a DC thing and I own an AC. I’d need to dig thru a wiring diagram (EWD) to see if I can figure that out, but I’ve got limited internet with my laptop the next few days so it’d be tough. Maybe it’s something non-amped DC have, exclusively? The EWD in the thread that has them for every year are pretty good about breaking down all the different cab types for audio and searching for “RF+” is a good search term the flip thru stereo stuff.

What/where does that harness go after the taped bundle enters the dash? And is that tape cloth/fuzzy or standard electrical tape? The colors in it suggest it has something to do with power etc., like … red and yellow are industry standard for ACC and ON power, black is ground, orange is illumination, blue is power antenna/turn on, which has me scratching my head why you’d have that.

Also, sorry if I missed above, I’m on a screen for the morning… you’re saying that harness from the 1st pic in this thread, or the two ends attached to it, they were plugged into your OEM radio, along with the other two ends you show?

I’d also add, the taping on the harnesses showing in your 1st pic of this thread, with the suspicious harness I don’t recognize, it doesn’t look factory to me. But I can’t fathom what the hell it may be going to.

 

It’s electrical take and it goes directly back and down past where I can see, i don’t think it was plugged into my stereo now that I think about it because it was detached when I pulled it out having me originally thinking it came undone when pulling the stereo but given how stubborn those connectors are I doubt it was. I just wasn’t totally positive given the extra two ports on the back side of the stereo. I’m positive the antenna and other two harnesses were connected though.