Sound matting worth it?

I used something called reflectix that I got at home depot. Idk how welling really works but I feel like I can maintain a better temp in my truck. https://www.reflectixinc.com/products/double-reflective-insulation/
Do you have ceramic tints? That would help tremendously.

 

I plan on getting tint in a few weeks

 

The ceramic film (you can get it tinted or un-tinted) as @Pudge says above really works nicely. I could feel the difference right away. Liked it so much I did another vehicle.

I may do my front windshield in clear ceramic sometime soon. Blocks out UV.

 

Another thing to add to the list

 

I ordered a few samples before I make another mlv order, figured it was worth sharing. Here are some shots of the differences. Samples from Acoustimac, soundproofingmlv.com and the isostore.

I purchased the isostore stuff thinking it was all the same. I could not get anything to bond to it and it is really rubbery and clearly full of voids. The acoustimac sample is very uniform, pliable and tape/velcro bonded well. The soundproofing mlv is a little slicker and a tad stiffer but tape/velcro bonded well. I really like the soundproofingmlv .75lb mlv as it is thinner but i will go with acoustimac since i only need 12.5ft for the doors unless i can get a half order from soundproofingmlv.

 

really dint care to pay for a big name brand here. I went with something off Amazon. it got VERY good reviews and was very east to install and stuck well even on a 45* day. I took my time and stayed away from the plastic door clip. holes. 25sf in a box for 33$ shipped is awesome. Its enough for 4 doors. This is decent stuff. Im sure there is better and thicker out there but its your money. My local B&M car audio place was trying to sell me some crap for 120$ and it covered 2 doors.... this stuff from amazon is awesome. When I close the doors now it sounds much different. Its called Kilmat as you can see in the pics . I was able to have enough for the back doors after doing 3 layers in some spots on the front doors. I just ordered another box I was so impressed. Guys im hard to impress. Lol I've been told many times in my life. I have ONE complaint some of the sheets were not cut square out of the box, they were off by 1" on one side. But if your doing a small area like a door who cares. It didn't both me but might bother you. Some of the pictures were not taken when I had all the layers on.

edit: In sort for the right price Yes I think its worth it if you add it while your changing the speakers out.









Kenwood Excelon KFC-XP6902C 6X9 with 3 1/2" Dash Mid/tweeter plus the OEM JBL sail tweeters HUGE improvement. Im driving them with a clean AudioControl 6.1200 200 watt per channel 4ohm setup. I used the JBL mount with little issues. Better quality than the universal mounting kit that was included. The only mod I did was add a 1/8" packer washer behind my power window bracket mount below the speaker to clear that magnet. It might not have been an issue with the included adapter. But the JBL/OEM adapter is MUCH better quality and much stronger with a rain shield on back. Im happy with this purchase actually. My system sounds really nice with the gains set right ect..

 

Looking at doing just the doors with killmat myself. Was the 25sf enough to do anything for the exterior metal also?

What is everyone doing with the blue plastic? Tossing it?

 

I peeled off the plastic and threw it in the trash.

 

So are we talking the 50 or 80 mil versions?

 

I've only seen the 50 mil Kilmat in 25sf

 

oh crap, i just ordered Noico from Amazon.

I got the 80 mil sound deadening mat and the RED 150 mil self adhesive CCD (PE foam).

Hmmmmmmm

 

Awesome, i have half a roll of this leftover from when I installed some hardwood flooring in the house! Now I have a use for it.

 

I think it would be better to cut around the cover panel and bolts in case repair is ever needed. Would be nice for a quick swap on the rear window and not a day of peeling that stuff off.

 

I just ordered the Siless 80 mil but I got the noico finishing tape for the edges also.

 

I ordered lots of stuff. Since the Tundra has turned into the toad trip truck since it has tons of room in the CM no offense DC guys. Once I get some time off Im gonna strip the truck down. Lots of Great info from Pudge that Im going to try.

 

Go 80 mil. No reason not too if your already ripping apart the interior might as well get the most bang you can.

 

subd

 

How many tiles does the floor need? Is that gray stuff on the floor toyotas version of CDL tiles?

 

Will 36sqft of the noico 80mil be enough for all 4 doors?

 

For me it was but I have a double cab. I went 100 percent coverage as well as covered the big holes in the door where the plastic was.cant remember if I had any left over. Recommended coverage for Noico is 60 percent from manufacturer.

 

I used 56sf or so on my crewmax doors. I covered the exterior and interior door skins 100%

 

Thank you for the info. I think my Sequoia's doors are bout the same size as your crewmax. So that would make sense to use 56sf for full inner and outter coverage. I bet it sounds amazing and less road noise.

 

I also did the back wall and floor up to the pedals, around 120sf in total for doors, wall, and floor. It made the stock speakers sound much better and did cut down on noise. One day I may add MLV to the floor to further cut down on road noise.

 

My floor and doors are done, huge difference. I can drive on the highway and whisper to the rear passengers who hear me perfectly.

 

I'm going to have to do this when I put the audio upgrades in. Was gonna just do killamat 80 but now I need to read more about the layered approach.

 

(Bear with me. This is relevant to the thread. I promise.)
I had tons of condensation on my windshield 3 mornings in a row and the front carpet under the weathertec floor liners were soaked. I thought my heater core was leaking so I pulled everything out to get to it.
Turns out it was just a clogged
A/C condensation drain. (Exist at the very front, center of the trans tunnel. Right on top of the transmission. Black, square-shaped plastic flange about the size of you palm.)


The doors, roof, rear floor and back wall are already done with 1lb/sf mlv, foam isolation layer and 80 mil noico adhesive butyl sound mat.
I also added a second row of weatherstrip around the doors to fill the panel gaps when the doors are closed. I hoped it would reduce the wind noise coming from the B-pillars, but there's so much noise coming from the front floor and firewall that I can't tell if it did any good.
Now I can finally finish my sound deadening project that started over a year ago. I've done ~85% of the work to get to an unobstructed firewall. I'm debating whether I should drop the steering column and remove the rest of the dash support for complete access or just work around it.

 

BTW, An empty 22' enclosed carhauler right next to the truck makes it so much easier to keep all of the dash parts and seats secure, organized and undamaged.

 

I don't want to de-rail this from sound deadening, but do you need to tear that much out to get to the drain? My mother's Highlander had this line clogged and did the same thing. If there's some sort of preventative maintenance I can do to avoid this from happening in my truck I'd be happy. Every time I use the AC I think about this...

 

If it's just the drain clogged then don't remove anything. Just blow some compressed air into the drain tube outlet to dislodge the clog and then spray some A/C duct cleaner into the system through the cabin air filter housing.

I would have saved myself a ton of time if I knew that it was a clogged condensation drain to begin with.

 

I decided to just peel the rest of it back to access the firewall, but then realized that you have to disconnect the A/C and heater lines to take any more off so I just worked around what you see in the image above.