SOLVED Power Windows Not Working

Not to be asinine, but the key is in the on position right? Is the battery dead?

 

LOL... yes it is. And the battery is working. I've even tried it with the motor running. (I thought about that too.)

 

The fuses are good... and from what I can tell, the power relay is good.

 

Have a multi meter?

 

yes, but I'm not exactly "fluent" in using it. I've looked online and tried using it, but not exactly sure what to start checking. I really don't want to take it to the dealer, because that'll cost me an arm and a leg. I have to check the contacts at each connection, right?

 

Watch YouTube and learn how to use the meter then start troubleshooting

 

Will do. Thanks!

 

OK... so I found this issue and it's FIXED! Thanks for all of your help. It was, indeed, a fuse. HOWEVER, there is a fuse that you really cannot see or check unless you pull off this tinted cover and see that it's blown.
Under the dash is a 30A power windows fuse that is different sized than the others. This was the culprit. I'll post pictures of the blown fuse, and the part at NAPA for it. Hope someone else can learn from my mistakes. But I did learn A LOT about checking fuses with a light tester and a multimeter!

 

Good job! Glad you were able to learn some stuff, that is what this forum is about.

 

Just went to roll my front passenger side window down this morning and it would not go down. Double checked the lock switch and that didn’t change anything. All of the other windows work as well as the door locks from the main drivers control. However, The window will roll down using the switch on the passenger side. I haven’t checked any fuses yet. Does this sound similar to anyone else’s issue?

UPDATE-
Found this on the Camry forums. Fixed the issue. This was all after I replaced my battery and it needed the factory reset.

 

Just wanted to say thank you for your information and add a little to it.

I caused this headache and I own that so please keep the bashing to a minimum...please! I tried to add a new lighted driver side window switch panel in my CM2017 limited, which has two "auto" windows not just one. The switch module I bought only had one "auto" and I was told it wouldn't work, but I figured worse that can happen, I blow a fuse! Well as they say hind sight is 20/20. If your in the same boat with one of these single "auto" modules don't use it on a two window "auto" switch module. Just don't!

Just replace the fuses.....who knew what a PIA that would be. Thanks Toyota engineers "Power No 3" so descriptive........

My Symptoms:
No windows worked at all from any door and the rear cab window did not work either. Also, on the drivers door the door lock did not work, but it did from the passenger side and Key FOB.

My Solution:

So I found the same 30 Fuse as icoachem14 found was blown (Under dash 30A Odd ball fuse). I replaced that and my rear door windows started working (from their own window switches) and my rear window now worked. But I still had no front door windows (both sides) and on the drivers side no door locks working. So I took a picture of the fuses and fuse block so I had a frame of reference in case I pulled a fuse next to an empty fuse slot. I pulled each one and inspected it and finally found on the fourth one from the bottom on the same side as the odd ball 30A fuse, a 20A fuse that was blown. On the fuse box cover it is called Power No.3 and BTW the 30A odd ball is Power No.1 WIth both of those replaced all is well again.

 

Good on you for posting this.

 

I installed a stereo the other day and now I'm dealing with the window issue the OP had. My drivers side switch will only operate the driver window and no other windows, no other window switches work in the truck. I checked the 30a under the dash and the 20a and neither are blown. Any help?

 

I need help guys. Only the drivers window works via the switch. None of the other windows work from their doors or from the master switch. It is not the window lock button, I've tried many times. It is not a fuse, I've checked all of them. It is not the master switch, I bought a new one to try it out. Please help me get my windows working. I'm supposed to take my truck on vacation next week and right now I only have one working window (the back window does work thankfully).

 

Did you ever figure out your problem? I’m having the same issue now.

 

I was an idiot and forgot to reattach the wiring from the door to the door panel on the 2 rear doors and passenger door.

 

Did your drivers side door work before you replaced the main switch?

 

My back window rolls down, fuses look good. Wondering the main switch just took a dump

 

Yes my switch worked prior to everything. Check that your window lock isn't pushed. Everything was fine for mine I merely didnt reconnect the wiring for the 3 doors.

 

Related topic for the benefit of the group...
If none of your power windows are working, it may be this not-labeled 30 Amp fuse on the side of the drivers-side footwell fuse box (located above the parking brake).
I blew it accidentally shorting an unused relay socket in the under-hood fuse box, causing none of the 4 power windows in my 2020 Tundra SR to work.
This fuse is not identified on the owners manual, nor the service manual, nor on the fuse diagrams. It is depicted, but not labeled, in the power windows wiring diagram.