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SOLVED!! -P0441 & P0446 & P0455

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by bassman417, Aug 26, 2020.

  1. Aug 26, 2020 at 8:36 PM
    #1
    bassman417

    bassman417 [OP] "Tundra Time". My favorite time of day...

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    The Check engine light came on this morning on the way to work. I got the codes read at Oreillys. P0441 & P0446 & P0455. I checked the cap and looks ok, but going to start there and replace it. #2 according to them is evap canister or purge solenoid,vent solenoid......
    I have also noticed a faint gas smell at times outside.
    Anyone with any similar experience with these codes or their remedies please share anything that may help. i guess its not too detrimental but that light is killing me already. Thanks.
     
  2. Aug 26, 2020 at 8:53 PM
    #2
    Stuck in the '00s

    Stuck in the '00s Lo-tech

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    Yup, gas cap first is the cheapest/easiest. Then clear the codes. If you're smelling gas around the engine, it's probably not the cap, though. Expect someone to tell you to put a piece of tape over the light.. :facepalm:
     
  3. Aug 27, 2020 at 4:50 AM
    #3
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    Put a piece of tape over the light. :D

    IIRC, the evap thingy is up around the spare tire area. Could be your charcoal canister is full. One fix for that on one of my other cars was to bypass it. That got rid of the fuel smell, but it is an OBD I car so it may not be the same on the tundra.
     
  4. Aug 27, 2020 at 10:21 AM
    #4
    shifty`

    shifty` "that guy"

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    A yes, emissions related codes related to evap/fuel.

    So, a few things here, I'm not 100% how Toyota works, but many vehicles are the same, a closed fuel/evap system with vents. if memory serves, you have a fuel line from tank to engine, and a vent on both sides. Vent in the engine area usually has charcoal in it, stores vapor. There's a pressure sensor in your tank, sometimes part of the pump assembly, it lets the ECU monitor how much pressure is on the tank, and uses the vents to open/close as necessary to maintain proper vacuum. If it needs more vacuum, close vent, fuel pumping to engine will create vacuum in the tank, build up pressure, etc.

    If your gas cap is leaking or open at pressure, or simply not tight enough because you didn't twist until it clicks, you can majorly disrupt the system because not enough vacuum can exist when the cap is loose and/or leaking. First step is always to [edit: check if cap is tight, drive for a while after tightening and clearing the codes, and if the CELs return] replace the cap [and clear the codes again].

    From there, [if codes return] it helps to have an OBDII scanner to see how much pressure the tank pressure sensor is showing. If it's consistently out of spec or never fluctuating, chances are the tank pressure sensor is shot. If the computer can't understand the pressure of the tank, it can't possibly open/close the vents correctly, thus you'll never have the right pressure.

    There's ways to diagnose whether the one (or two) vents are working correctly, just to see if one is always-venting or always-clogged. On some vehicles, one vent is on the tank end of the truck, one is integrated into the EVAP can up front. If you off-road a lot and your truck has one near the tank, the vent can get jammed and throw codes like the P0441 or whatever. GM had a big recall on their C1500 trucks over this back in the 2000s. [mud stuffing up the rear vent]

    Anyway, advice is to start small, then go big. The above is just my recollection of how EVAP systems commonly work. Sometimes having the fundamental overall view helps understanding and troubleshooting the problem.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2020
  5. Aug 28, 2020 at 8:04 AM
    #5
    bassman417

    bassman417 [OP] "Tundra Time". My favorite time of day...

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    Great insight and advice. thank you.
     
  6. Aug 28, 2020 at 9:04 AM
    #6
    shifty`

    shifty` "that guy"

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    Had a couple of insignificant edits to make for clarity if someone finds this in the future.

    I also failed to mention two things in case tightening the gas cap then clearing the codes doesn't help, and replacing it then clearing the codes doesn't help either.

    One, naturally you should look around the truck for any loose rubber lines, loose electrical connectors, like those going to the gas tank and anything attached to it, the lines from tank to engine, and look around in the engine bay as well, just to make sure nothing popped off. Two, remember, most stealerships will diagnose your vehicle, one hour of diagnostics at my local stealerships usually runs $85-145 depending on how friendly you are with the service team or where the dealership is located.

    I know some guys who'll skip troubleshooting things like this where multiple codes are thrown, just carry it in, have them do the diagnostics, then carry it home, order the parts and repair it. The worst part about having stealerships do the work, the reason they carry the nomer stealership is because they rob you blind upcharging on the parts, charging their labour hours consecutively versus concurrent, and the hourly rates are goddamn maddening, especially when tallied up consecutively.

    In cases where I'll need to pay more than $120 to diagnose on tools I may never use again, and my favorite go-to shop says he doesn't love to figure out, that's usually when I'm nope'ing out to the stealership to do the diags for me. Only thing that sucks is when they get it wrong, but I've had pretty good luck.
     
  7. Sep 1, 2020 at 12:09 PM
    #7
    bassman417

    bassman417 [OP] "Tundra Time". My favorite time of day...

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    Got the new cap in and on. definately needed it from the looks of it.
    20200831_185851.jpg 20200831_185905.jpg
    But when i went to disconnect the battery to clear the CEL, the positive connection on the cable is corroded and started to crack upon loosening. Mission aborted until i get a replacement positive battery cable.
     
    ktundra, bmf4069 and Pucks18 like this.
  8. Sep 1, 2020 at 2:40 PM
    #8
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Could be the corrosion is part of your problem. Electrical Gremlins live there.
     
  9. Sep 6, 2020 at 3:26 PM
    #9
    bassman417

    bassman417 [OP] "Tundra Time". My favorite time of day...

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    finally had a chance to replace the corroded cable connections.CEL cleared. Gas cap replacement worked.
    Thanks for everyones great advice.
     
    Schcoman, mtntop, bmf4069 and 5 others like this.
  10. Sep 6, 2020 at 3:33 PM
    #10
    Stuck in the '00s

    Stuck in the '00s Lo-tech

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    :yes:

    Something, something Happy Ending!
     
  11. Sep 8, 2020 at 9:17 AM
    #11
    shifty`

    shifty` "that guy"

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    Don't want to be the skeptic or anything, I've seen gas cap fix it. I would just caution: Many make/model of vehicles require you to drive a series of events before it's able to understand whether there's an issue or not. For some vehicles, the formula is known, like, drive at Xmph for Y distance, then go to highway speeds for Z miles, etc. In other cases, like with GM vehicles, if you have the GM Tech2 diag tool, you can hook it up, and it will initiate a full test sequence for you.

    My post is only a light warning, I wouldn't count the chickens yet. Unless you're racking up 100-200 miles per day, it may be a week or three before you can fully write-off the problem as 'fixed'. If you make it to October with no CEL after a few hundred miles, I'd call it a done-deal though.
     
  12. Sep 9, 2020 at 3:47 PM
    #12
    bassman417

    bassman417 [OP] "Tundra Time". My favorite time of day...

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    gee thanks mr shifty.
    Well.....burst me bubble.
    kill my buzz.
    rain on my parade.
    all my shizzle for nizzle?

    I drive her about 60 miles round trip on working days so about 350-400 miles a week. I also have a bafx obd2 bluetooth on its way and a spare phone with Torque pro already loaded and ready.
    anxiously watching the dashboard now.....
     
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  13. Sep 9, 2020 at 4:00 PM
    #13
    rock climber

    rock climber New Member

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    Once you get the OBD2 hooked up you can check emission readiness and if the evap system shows ready you should be in the clear.
     
  14. Sep 9, 2020 at 4:15 PM
    #14
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    You’ll find the Device very useful.
     
    bassman417 [OP] likes this.
  15. Sep 10, 2020 at 4:54 PM
    #15
    bassman417

    bassman417 [OP] "Tundra Time". My favorite time of day...

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    I love it, really cool toy.
    question @Professional Hand Model
    is it ok to leave this plugged in when not driving? also what do you think is the most important gauges to monitor?
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2020
  16. Sep 10, 2020 at 5:03 PM
    #16
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Some reviewers said they left it in without draining their vehicle battery. Others said take it out. I left mine in overnight due to forgetting and the truck started up with no problems. Phone was dead, though.

    I unplug mine because it drains the phone battery via bluetooth connection. My phone is an old beater dedicated to just the truck gauges. When the BxFx is unplugged it is not powered and draining Bluetooth powers from the phone battery.

    So far the best gauge set up is the one pictured. I’ve experimented with quite a few options, as you very well will do, and found this set up the best. Sky is the limit really as I’ve only scratched the surface. There are floating gauges and differing colors, gauge styles, etc.

    Pic in next post.
     
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  17. Sep 10, 2020 at 5:06 PM
    #17
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    bassman417 [OP] likes this.
  18. Sep 10, 2020 at 8:10 PM
    #18
    bassman417

    bassman417 [OP] "Tundra Time". My favorite time of day...

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    Not too concerned about the phone battery or otherwise.My main concern is with the truck battery or possibly damaging the obd port plugging in and out too much over time. mine seems almost slightly loose when plugging it in. whats the worst that can happen by leaving it in? battery drain?
     
  19. Sep 11, 2020 at 4:47 AM
    #19
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Not sure as I’ll not leave mine in for more than a day.

    Per the Port: Mines tight. You do need to take care of not kicking it with your foot which hasn’t been a problem for me, but could see this as a potential.

    I’ll only use mine on long drives at this point now that I’ve established a base line in town with short/long drives. I’ll also use it as a diagnostic tool if the situation ever arises (hoping never).
     
    bassman417 [OP] likes this.
  20. Sep 11, 2020 at 7:35 AM
    #20
    rock climber

    rock climber New Member

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    I've left mine plugged in for 6 months with no problems.
     
  21. Sep 11, 2020 at 2:23 PM
    #21
    bassman417

    bassman417 [OP] "Tundra Time". My favorite time of day...

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  22. Sep 11, 2020 at 2:25 PM
    #22
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Nice! Post up your learnings over in the other thread. Add to the knowledge base.
     
  23. Sep 11, 2020 at 2:35 PM
    #23
    bassman417

    bassman417 [OP] "Tundra Time". My favorite time of day...

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    well the evap system is in the red currently. hope it clears after whatever parameters are satisfied.

    something else i noticed was that after filling up this morning, a few more of them went red, but then cleared after driving a few miles. is that normal?
     
  24. Sep 11, 2020 at 3:57 PM
    #24
    rock climber

    rock climber New Member

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    Yeah, I believe the evap runs at certain points and when you open the gas cap, it has to retest.
     
  25. Sep 12, 2020 at 12:10 PM
    #25
    bassman417

    bassman417 [OP] "Tundra Time". My favorite time of day...

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    Ok i think im clear. I Checked the emission readiness data this morning after warmup and it was still red-incomplete. upon arrival at work i pulled it up again and actually saw it change to green-complete.

    20200912_085740.jpg
     
  26. Sep 14, 2020 at 12:12 PM
    #26
    shifty`

    shifty` "that guy"

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    Yup! Should be good to go. Looks good. To be fair, this is what I was talking about. EVAP self-test isn't something that usually finishes quickly in modern vehicles. There's a series of events and long running tests required to reach pass/fail state.

    It can be frustrating as hell when you're in an emissions-mandatory place and need to pass testing to get your tag! You can clear codes all day, but until EVAP testing completes itself with a passing score, they insta-fail you every time.

    My last reply was coming from the perspective of someone who's been deflated a few times in the days prior to having correct digital tools to monitor and sometimes force testing from end-to-end. The more you know, the more you can see, the more you can control, the better off you are!
     
    bassman417 [OP] likes this.

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