So You Want To Do Your Manifolds DO You?

Looking at pictures looks like the top of the studs are squared off for wrenching. Probably the highly sought after 10MM

Having never done this job, I'd try that first and vice grips as last resort.

 

The end of the OEM studs is inverted torx, and an E-torx socket is what you want, makes removing and installing the studs a breeze with no thread damage. I can’t recall the size, but if you have new studs already you can use one to match it up.

 

I’d rather only replace the nuts, not the nuts and the studs.
Also the nut is already grabbing the stud, it’s a pinch nut, so your basically praying to Ala that only the nut comes off.

 

I would attempt this job under 3 conditions:
1. Alternate transportation on standby
2. AAA+ member enrollment for free tow within 100 miles
3. MiG welder and spare nuts on standby

Also for access to nuts/studs on drivers side, I would just cut off the manifold with an angle grinder first after removing the shield.

Good luck, keep us posted PHM!

 

I did mine on my 2001 Tundra back in 2005, so it was only 4 years old at the time and I didn't have to deal with the rust issues. I don't remember the job being particularly bad though. The headers were way less involved than when I changed the timing belt, idler pulleys, tensioner, water pump, cam seals, hoses, thermostat, etc. I did the driver's side first to get the crappy side out of the way. The passenger side was really easy. One more thing...the OEM gaskets are pretty nice and can be reused. I reused them in 2005 and they were still going strong when the truck was totaled in 2016.

Dave

 

Yeah. I’ll send up a few Ali Babbas when I get into it.

A1 Auto Vid shows most all the Studs came off with the Nuts. Seems like thats how 04 Tundra job went (50/50) but he would have preferred both to come off simultaneously.

 

Thank you. I purchased/received the E10 Socket the other day. It just looks like the rusty ends of the old won’t take kindly to a new socket which I got for the put back. I think I’ll stick with the Double Nut Back Out method per 04 Tundra. See his first post. If the E10 works I’ll use that.

Basically, I learned to keep ALL your options open on this particular job so I over ordered tools/extentions/wobbles/extractors/ etc.

 

I think you’ll be OK using the socket to remove the studs too, as required. The hardware shown in your photo looks to be less corroded than both of the ones I tackled, and they all came out easily with the socket, if not together with the locknut. But there’s only one way to know for sure... Get after it already!! LOL

 

You'll be surprised with how easily the studs might come out of the block. Mine, which I fully expected to be frozen, backed right out with very little resistance. Keep in mind that's on a 20 year old northern climate engine too!

 

I did use little Vise Grips on one of them, IIR... Can't quite remember though.

 

When I look at a lot of the pics here and videos online it looks like most of the rust seizing is the nut to the stud and the stud to the manifold itself and not the block. Seems like the logical thing to do is just break the rust bond to the hole in the manifold the stud passes through. I would imagine a torch and some penetrant would be the best route being careful not to apply it on the nut before cranking it off with the impact gun.

 

Alright boyz. Headers came in this afternoon. Without removing everything, I tried a Dry Fit down on both sides to semi-pre-game the Mojo. Will these JBAs fit down from the topside of the engine? Seems like it might be tight but not sure until the hoses and other shtuff are removed.

 

Fancy!
I sent both mine from the under carriage, but shorties might fit from above

 

I hope. These seem pretty good quality for the most part. The finish is real nice. They could use some Shweetness FrenchToasty Porting on some areas that look a little wobbly. What your recco’d porting tool bit of choice for a high speed drill 3/8” electric drill?

 

The all metal bullnose type one works real good for lots of material to remove, and the pink one was nice for clean up and hard to reach places. These are for a 1/4 shank hi speed die grinder

 

Also peep the collector merger for clingons and coat tailers.

 

Yeah. There is a rim lip up in there. I’d like to grind that part off.

 

I was just looking, that curve after the collector might prove dicey to put the die grinder in. But if you’ve got time and small files, get at it. I had asked my buddy to take care of those before he welded the reducer cone on but he didn’t, so it was much more difficult after to make safe progress on those lips and burrs. Again they should be fine, but I know you can’t leave anything alone either.

 

I’ll think about it all and figure it out.

 

I installed mine from under the engine. Now, keep in mind I had jacked the engine up as I was replacing the mounts, so I had more room to work from under, and things were tighter on top.

 

Those are good lookin pipes, btw... I think you'll really enjoy 'em. Full throttle accelerations sound so much better with the headers installed!

 

Thanks. I started Pondering your jack the engine technique and how it opened a few angles after the looking at things. I’m feeling Mission Creep already.

 

I think it was Zig Ziglar that said "Do it right the first time!"

 

That is ALWAYS my aim. Takes longer to do it twice than to do it right the first time.

 

Put down your purse.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-...ie-Grinder-without-Lock-On-DWE4887N/205904198

 

Reached into my Hand Bag and grabbed my Dremel. Works great! Ported the intakes for smoovvv flows. Had a little slippy doo on the one port but she’ll be alright. Things are coming together nicely. Cut the New Gaskets out of the Remflex DIY Kit.

 

Lookin good louis!

 

Spent about 8 hours installing the Pass Side Header. Used every Hand Move in the Arsenal. Started her up and no leaks! This Job is no joke. Every level intensifies into the next one. Never lets up until you finish putting the Splash Guards back on.