Secondary Air Injection Pump failure

Well yes, like I said, modifying the emission system wouldn't be legal in my state if you lived in a county with smog check. If you don't need a smoking check then it's not a big deal.

I wouldn't rely on sdhq. I'd figure out what your state laws are if you're worried about it.

 

Alex, I just called SDHQ and brought up the "legal " issue because every state is different. The tech I talked to is going to get a clarification on this and call me back ASAP. I explained that I'm a member on T.com and that we are discussing this issue right now.

 

You are correct. It's good to know your particular states emission regulations because it can be a quagmire. I'm not sweating it here in Colorado but it's good to get a clarification and I'm willing to bet that SDHQ might be changing the description as to the "legality " of this kit depending on which state you live in...heh...heh
You brought up a very good point by the way...

 

I got this same issue on my 2012 w/ 4.6L V8. Dealer notes "Air switching valve stuck open bank 2. Air pump and air switching valves do not operate."

Threw P2442 and P2442p codes. Dealer quoted me $2,900 for full repair. From what I'm reading, seems like the Hewitt kit is the best option. Unless I'm missing something...

 

Am I reading this right? So if I do this, it basically does what the Hewitt bypass kit does, but for $15 and some extra work?

 

Yeah that kit is very expensive, so much so that I have started specing prices of building my own kit from parts on Amazon. Will post up a list when I get it complete. Why the Tundra AIP system is so much more complicated than my 4Runners was is beyond me? Maybe the V8 requires it and because it's so big they had no room to put it under the hood?

Anyway the 4Runners pump was right on the front passenger side of the engine bay. Just take off the crap foam filter and put on a K&N lawn mower filter and you won't have any issues. The main problem is that after a while the filter breaks down and then gets sucked into the system. Once you eliminate the filter, changing the lawn mower filters on a regular basis is a non issue.

 

Part # 42871

 

If you clean the valve, don't make the mistake I made. I cleaned the valve and thought I could spray the inside guts with some silicone spray or electric contact cleaner. I thought, since neither product attracts dirt and both are dielectric, it wouldn't be a problem and I could save $150. I should have just removed the gunk and maybe spray the outside with some lube.

I ended up trading one code for another. The sensors on the inside got messed up. Instead of stuck valve code, I got air flow or air pressure codes. I can't remember the specifics.

So I just replaced the whole thing. Problem solved. But I was so close to fixing it rather than replacing it.

If you do attempt a cleaning, the top two contacts activate the valve to test open/close

 

@wutevs do you remember the part number for the filter you used on your trumpet delete? I am trying to find the inside diameter measurement of the hoses you put the filters into. Thanks.

Also just realized I was posting in a 2nd gen thread. . Is this still an issue with the 3rd gen?? I'm assuming it is since they are the same trucks but just want to clarify Toyota didn't change things before buying parts.

 

Acetone is good to use. Evaps fast and leaves no residue. I forgot which years but I read that the Chevy Blazer uses the same AIP's and are like 1/2 the cost that Yota charges. I'll try to find the link.

 

Thank you

 

UPDATE...got a call back today from Bruce @sdhq_offroad. #1.....I'll repeat the caveat to know your particular state's emission laws. #2.......definition of "modification" in regards to our AIP system. Now that that is out of way.....SDHQ's take is, which I agree with, relocating the intake to the AIP's isn't bypassing nor modifying the "functionality" of the emission "system" like a bypass does. Doesn't hinder it at all. The kit simply relocates where the AIP's get air from. In other words...the system functionality is not tampered with and not compromised at all.

 

That’s true but it is a modification of the emissions system. Here in CA some places are very particular about any modification regardless of whether or not it impacts how the system works.
It might be worth a try but depending on the tech I wouldn’t be surprised if it failed visual inspection.

 

Like I mentioned on my previous post^^^^^. See #1 and #2.
Edited my post from "First" and "Second " to #1 and #2 to avoid any confusion...

 

It should fail anywhere that has a visual, that’s the rules. Petty but can’t modify any emissions component.

All of us made our own long ago. Welcome to the club hope you didn’t pay too much lol.

 

My old Xterra was pretty heavily modified .. only ever had one smog location not willing to even try to pass me and it's because they were your run of the mill, quick smog spots.

As I've seen and done worse, I can't imagine/foresee not passing smog check because of this.

 

Depends on your state. AK is quite lax for example.

 

The bottom line here to keep this thread on focus is that the AIP's can fail and there are options......interesting topic for sure.

 

Whoops. Meant to point out that I'm in the Bay Area of California.

 

Interesting 3 years ago, not so much now. Lol.

 

Well still don't know if I need to do this on my 3rd gen but here is the parts list I have assembled to run the filters up into the engine bay and get rid of the foam filters. Maybe this will help someone in the future. An since some of you have done this already if some of these parts are not right please post up with corrections.

-Hose -

$16 PRO 1 Heater Hose 5/8" Inside Diameter X 6 Feet Length 052615C

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXNG35...colid=ES7YLQUJSUOD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

-2 filters (could prob find a cheaper alternative here) -

$35 K&N Vent Air Filter/ Breather: High Performance, Premium, Washable, Replacement Engine Filter: Flange Diameter: 0.625 In, Filter Height: 1.5 In, Flange Length: 0.4375 In, Shape: Breather, 62-1340

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029WXS...colid=ES7YLQUJSUOD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

-90 degree elbow -

AC PERFORMANCE 90 Degree Female -10 AN to 5/8" Push Lock Hose End Barb Fitting, Red Blue

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJJSTF...colid=ES7YLQUJSUOD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

-120 degree elbow -

AC PERFORMANCE -10 AN 120 Degree Red Blue Aluminum Swivel Female AN10 7/8 x 14 Thread to barb 5/8" 15.87mm OD Push Lock/Push On Barb Hose End Oil Fuel Line Fitting, with American Type Clamp

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TNHVH5...colid=ES7YLQUJSUOD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

-2 line fittings (these are the parts I am not sure on since I don't know the inner diameter of the outlet hoses on the truck) -

$12 AC PERFORMANCE -10 AN Male Flare to 5/8" Barb Push Hose Barb Fitting Adapter Aluminum Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CKXRMQ...colid=ES7YLQUJSUOD&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

-Several hose clamps for 5/8" hose.

 

I lack focus tonight. Will send you parts list tomorrow if you want.

 

If you get a chance that would be appreciated. An yeah I get it, with a production run of 13 plus years with basically the same truck all this stuff gets lost from time to time. That's why you get many threads asking the same thing many times throughout the years. Then factor in crap search engines and laziness.

 

Roughly $137 for everything not including taxes (and shipping on some). Couple that with the install instructions on the SDHQ site and I think you may have just helped some folks do this more affordably. When I get my kit in I can confirm/look for missing if that'd help.

 

That would be great, thanks!

 

Thats $137 you could put towards the hewitt kit. Took me an hour to install, zero research, set it and forget it.

I pretty much did forget I installed it but this thread keeps sucking me in haha

 

HEY, SO is there a good place to buy all the bits and parts for the actual repair? I have seen the pumps and valves for sale but when one looks at the toyota parts website, there are a zillion clamps and tubes...
NOt sure what to get. There is no "kit" ..ie One part number for all the bits. I dont have a lot of time to work on this issue so I want to try and have as many of the small bits ready to go or just R&R.
(r&r is short for remove and replace).

 

buy the hewitt kit

 

Nope Hewitt Kit for the Win. I also had to add pressure sensor switch, which was a $200 add. Knock on wood! Limp mode free

 

I would be so pissed if I had to pay that much and there wasn't any kit like Hewitt's as an alternative. Why is it so expensive to fix it? The PO's of my truck had to have it fixed twice. The bills were nothing close to $2900 but expensive nonetheless. Why is the system so prone to failure and why isn't Toyota doing anything to remedy the problem?