SAIP DIY Bypass - Rough Start

Hey everyone!
The engine light came up recently and i got code P2445 - pump stuck off bank 1. I followed the steps from a youtube video and DIY the bypass. Now the engine light is off, but when i start the truck it seems like it is gonna stall in the first 2-3 seconds. Can anyone explain why that would happen? Also, would it still happen with the bypass kits they sell?

 

If you want to know if it's the DIY bypass, then remove the bypass temporarily, and see if it stalls. If it does, you know it's the bypass.

There's a bypass you can build yourself, Hewitt, and about 3-4 other brands out there. If you can be more specific which bypass you used, that would help immensely. If it's Hewitt, their support is great. Reach out. But before you do, if you didn't install the blockoff plates (if it was part of the kit), you need to.

 

One of the primary benefits of purchasing one of the SAIS bypass products is that they avoid cutting into the factory wire harness. I looked up the DIY SAIS bypass and it requires cutting into the wire harness going to the MAF. I would check this for a possible connection issue. Did you use a Positap or did you use a wire splice connector? The latter can cut strands in the wire and lead to a weak connection. Also, I believe all of the solutions require looping wire to one of the terminals on the purple starter relay and this may not have been reseated properly. I'd double check that as well.

 

Grammatical choices make it hard to say whether OP used a premade kit and opted to DIY the install vs. paying someone to do it, or whether they used a DIY kit like this one linked in the megathread. Could be helpful for @The_last_steel_bender to clarify. I don't think the Rutech or Hewitt gen1 require wirecutting.

 

My apologies for the confusion @shifty` . I did the DIY kit, like the one posted in the megathread.

I went back and removed the kit and the truck started fine. Re-installed the kit and it happened again.

I did not install plates since:

-I don’t have them
-Tried to loosen the bolts just to see how bad they are and 3 out of 4 would not move.
-Pump is stuck in closed position and from what I read, it is not very necessary to install them.

I just wanted to know if anyone else has experienced a similar issue with the pre-made kits from Hewitt, Rutech etc.

 

I can't answer for everyone, I'm one of those people who'd rather replace the SAI pump, given the information here making it cheaper, and not deal with the bullshit.

What I gather is the Hewitt kit, Gen2 is a bit more intensive and requires soldering up under the glovebox at the ECU, Gen1 is a bit more rudimentary and doesn't, and both kits will potentially continue throwing other codes. I haven't heard a lot about Rutech kit on here other than a lack of complaints, but with fewer people using it ... I dunno.

 

I agree with you. I think i will keep it this way until I find the time to do the pump assembly replacement.

 

You are aware of the rodent-nesting-under-intake problems, yes?

Just asking, in case it was an abrupt end, and you didn't get the classic "sounds like a shop vac running under my intake the first 30-60 seconds after a cold startup" symptom prior to failure. I don't think the issue is as prevalent for us 2005-2006 owners who have a hell of a lot more stuffed under the intake than the 2000-2004 owners, but it 100% does happen with 2005+, and they love to chew the wires. I can't recall if that results in P2445 though.

I do know, from our EVERYTHING YOU MUST KNOW ABOUT YOUR 1ST GEN TUNDRA community info thread, there is a TSB for P2445 on our trucks, here's that bullet point:

• Secondary air injection P2445 code: For '05-'06 Tundras, there's a TSB for trucks throwing P2445 code for SAIP / SAIS when temperatures are exceptionally cold. The TSB document can be viewed here to see if it's applicable to your truck.

If it happens all the time, then probably not related. If it happens primarily when cold, is potentially related.