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Rustproofing your Tundra once and for all.

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014+)' started by Big Yota, Apr 10, 2019.

  1. Apr 10, 2019 at 7:53 AM
    #1
    Big Yota

    Big Yota [OP] New Member

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    I just went through rustproofing the new Tundra this past weekend so I want to pass along some research information and application procedures. My new 2018 DC TRD Off Road has been sitting in the garage since Thanksgiving as I refused to drive it through the brutal Chicago winter unprotected. I've gone the professional rustproofing route on a Mustang I bought decades ago and was never happy with all the holes they drilled and plugged and the sloppy application. I have a big compressor for painting and sandblasting so figured undercoating wouldn't be so bad. I had a gun which is used to apply 3M Body Schutz to some of my restorations but it didn't have a wand to get into the frame. Getting the material into the boxed section of the frame is critical. Eastwood sells a undercoating gun for $70 which has two wands for the tight areas. I read the reviews which were split between great and worthless. Figured the guys bitching probably were clueless to begin with or trying to use it for something it wasn't designed to handle. Eastwood also sells a pro gun which everyone loved but its $250 so a bit steep.

    Now it was time to find an actual material. I had heard about this Fluid Film here months ago but after further research it seemed like it was temporary at best. Washes off? Thats not undercoating. Reapply it twice a year, touch-ups, expensive, etc. Sounds like over-glorified WD-40. Black grease or heavy black slop, bedliner, even considered the Body Schutz. Everything seemed to have a downside. But during my years of restoring old cars from the 60's I remember this sort of sticky substance that cast iron parts were coated in to keep them from rusting on the dealers shelves. The downside is that it is like a magnet for dust and dirt to stick to it. So I did some more research on the material and found that its was first developed in the late 1800's. Over the years it was used for many things but during WWII they found that it could be thinned and sprayed onto tanks and artillery to rustproof them from the salt air while being transported to the 2 overseas theaters. The Russians also used it to protect large caches of AK's which were stored throughout the countryside for decades in leaky silos in case of an invasion from the west during the Cold War era. Even after 40 years of moisture once the coating was washed off the weapons looked and operated like new.

    Whats this magic product called......Cosmoline. A gallon container shipped to my door from California was $102. The specific product info is
    Cosmoline Rust Veto 342 - Industrial Grade, RV-342-1Gal from Cosmoline Direct LLC

    I experimented a little and found a ratio for thinning it to spray nicely through the wands was 3 parts Cosmoline to 1 part Mineral spirits (Home Depot). For the main frame and other surfaces 3 parts to 3/4 of 1 part works well. While at Depot also pick up a mixing paddle (the one with the orange plastic multiple fins) a 1/2 quart marked mixing/ measuring cup and a white hazmat like suit (painting department $10) to keep you from getting covered in the stuff. If you have to roll around underneath the truck because you don't have a lift you will be rolling around in this stuff. My lift is for small cars not this monster. Wear a hat or something to keep this from getting in your hair. Otherwise you will need scissors or a crew cut afterwards. Those with "flow or mullets" beware. Use a drill and the mixing paddle to help get it thinner to work with. We had temp in the high 60's this weekend and it worked fine but I stored the material in-doors over night.

    The worst part is all the paper covering on the underside. I covered everything that wasn't frame. So exhaust, driveshaft, shocks, brakes, brake lines, engine, trans and front diff/axles, etc. Removed the front skid plate (PITA), mudflaps and two rubber sheild kind of covering engine in the front wheel houses. A roll of brown paper and white masking tape from depot took care of the material portion. The roll of paper is about 30" tall and a nice weight. Red Rosen paper is too heavy and the stuff painters use for trim is only 10" and way too light weight. Plan on spending 3 hours prepping the underside with tape and paper. I didn't want this stuff on mechanical bits as once this stuff gets a layer of dirt on it you have some cleaning to do to get to bolts. Spend the time up front you will thank me later.

    Your air pressure should start at 60 lbs but will drop to 40 lbs with full trigger. My two stage 5 hp compressor with a 60 gal tank never ran out of air through out the 2-3 hours of spraying. Now it does get a chance to catch up as you refill the bottle on the sprayer or as you mix up more material. If you order your gun from Eastwood the sprayer comes with 1 bottle but buy a second one for spraying thinner through your equipment. Clean op immediately as this magic honey will set up quickly overnight. Once it does it is a more flexible solid. Get lots of cardboard to lay under your truck. Don't try moving around a small piece. You dont want this all over your driveway as it ozzes out openings in the frame. Just throw out the cardboard when you are done. It was a looooooong day. I can't remember the last time I spent close to 11 hours in the garage. Stripped off the paper after cleaning the gun on Saturday. Put the wheels, spare tire, skid plate on Sunday morning before the rain started. Read up on Cosmoline I think you will be impressed. Check it over the years to see if you need any touch ups but this stuff is durable. Water wont wash it off like an Oil Spray, Krown or Fluid Film. Having to reapply a rustproofing product once a year is a joke. This is a time consuming and messy job which sucked the one time. There is no way I would be doing this on a yearly basis with a product which washes off with water.
     
  2. Apr 10, 2019 at 8:03 AM
    #2
    panicman

    panicman New Member

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    Thanks for the concept, the descriptive detail, and the product links. The idea has a lot of merit and Cosmoline has a proven record. Good write up.

    I am very thankful I don’t live near the rust belt!
     
  3. Apr 10, 2019 at 8:09 AM
    #3
    TacoWuzzaTurd

    TacoWuzzaTurd Loving my Tundra

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    Move to Arizona. Instant rust proof but not dust proof. :D
     
  4. Apr 10, 2019 at 8:41 AM
    #4
    B737

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    ugh that stuff is awful. spent many hours under my other car removing every bit of 20 year old caked on Cosmoline...

    our vehicles are made to be daily drivers, winter too! are you planning on keeping your car for 50 years? it will prob be just fine driving it the way it left the dealer lot... there is a strong chance it wont frame rot and split in two if you drove it through salt. Hopefully Toyota has learned their lesson on this one... and even if they havent, when it's a problem, you / I wont have the truck anymore.

    geez i hope im not driving the same vehicle 7 years from now
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2019
  5. Apr 10, 2019 at 9:40 AM
    #5
    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon SouthBoundSteve Fan Club President

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    As a collector of military surplus firearms, I am very familiar with Cosmoline and how tough it is to remove. I would imagine that it would do a great job of rust-proofing.
     
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  6. Apr 10, 2019 at 9:48 AM
    #6
    Big Yota

    Big Yota [OP] New Member

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    To each their own B737 but at my age this is the last last (first pick-up after a string of big SUV's). I do plan on keeping it for a long time as with new technology comes less and less dependable vehicles. I'm guessing you never really looked at the frame on your Tundra but its covered in what's best described as E-coat. i assume you know what that is? Works OK in the dry climates but in the rust-belt states its a joke. But its obviously cheaper for them to skimp on paint then it is to warranty a few frame for rot. Sounds like you prefer to take the re-sale or trade in value in the shorts by passing along the proverbial buck. You sound like a good candidate for leasing. Look into it.
     
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  7. Apr 10, 2019 at 9:53 AM
    #7
    Big Yota

    Big Yota [OP] New Member

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    By the way add a respirator with cartridges like you would use for spraying paint. no need to breath in the mineral spirits. Did I saave any money doing it myself. Probably not. But I did way more of a thorough job and didn't skimp on the product. Cosmoline engineer said a gallon was enough to cover 400 sf. I went through about 3/4 of a gallon. Maybe a little heavier on the application but also planned to do this once. Have some left for brush touch ups in the future.
     
  8. Apr 10, 2019 at 10:04 AM
    #8
    homesteader

    homesteader New Member

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    One thing I worry about with rustproofing is the possibility (probability) of trapping moisture. If the metal is not perfectly dry there is no way for the water to evaporate.
     
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  9. Apr 10, 2019 at 10:30 AM
    #9
    Big Yota

    Big Yota [OP] New Member

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    Well that's why mine sat in the garage for 4 months until I could get this done. But I think that even if you wanted to do your truck after its been used and maybe power washed to clean it up. Typically 3 days in the garage with some fans running along the chassis should put your mind at ease that its dry. Humidity level in spring is very low as well.
     
  10. Apr 10, 2019 at 10:47 AM
    #10
    2ndgenny

    2ndgenny •STOCK PILING BUILD PARTS•

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    Heat will evaporate any moisture in the steel. To do this coating ( @Big Yota thanks for the write up and idea) and don’t have 4 months to dry the truck out, I’m thinking a tiger torch or smaller area butane torch would help out nicely. As long as your not melting and meltable parts...
     
  11. Apr 10, 2019 at 10:50 AM
    #11
    Northbound Train

    Northbound Train New Member

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    I have 94 Chevy K2500 that had a pretty clean frame on it when I got it and I smeared grease all over it, then it picked up dust and got pretty firm. I’ve driven it in the winter for 8 years and no noticeable rust has formed under the grease coat. I imagine cosmoline would work just as well and would have the advantage of being sprayable.
     
  12. Apr 10, 2019 at 12:53 PM
    #12
    CannonBallSlim

    CannonBallSlim New Member

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    Auto engineers should be castrated, they design salt water channels underneath to insure rust.
     
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  13. Apr 10, 2019 at 1:25 PM
    #13
    Big Yota

    Big Yota [OP] New Member

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    Actually the C channel frame section is a design which allows you to clean it easily. its the front boxed section for the engine and suspension which is the problem area. A couple of the forward cross braces tying the frame together is also problematic. lots of holes to allow crud to get in and allow the rot to fester. I don't think its the engineers but the bean counters saying its cheaper to replace some frames in the rust-belt states versus coating/painting ALL of them.
     
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  14. Apr 10, 2019 at 2:31 PM
    #14
    panicman

    panicman New Member

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    Auto engineers- BE WARNED!!

    I don’t mean to panic, but CannonBallSlim has a terrifying fate planned for you!!
     
  15. Apr 10, 2019 at 7:52 PM
    #15
    CannonBallSlim

    CannonBallSlim New Member

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    only if I catch them. the bastards.
     
  16. Apr 10, 2019 at 7:53 PM
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    CannonBallSlim

    CannonBallSlim New Member

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    Okay..the bean counters should be castrated.
     
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  17. Apr 10, 2019 at 9:54 PM
    #17
    Tundrablue

    Tundrablue New Member

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    I have done a similar procedure on a few of my vehicles (not the Tundra yet). I use a cheap tub of grease mixed with K1 kerosene. Add enough kerosene to achieve a sprayable thickness. I use a sandblasting gun hooked to a 5 gallon jug. Sprayed frame, underside of bed and cab, inner fender wells, etc. After the kerosene evaporates, you’re left with a thin coat of grease! Works great, no rust after being on for years!
     
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  18. Apr 11, 2019 at 3:16 AM
    #18
    rsgt

    rsgt New Member

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    Ive said this before go on Krown web site check them out. Cosmoline on a truck frame thats going to be a dirt mud dust magnet.
     
  19. Apr 11, 2019 at 3:59 AM
    #19
    plumber802

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    Big Yota I applaud your meticulous attention to detail. I consider myself to be somewhat OCD regarding rust as well since I live in Vermont where they dump MASSIVE amounts of rock salt and brine on our roads from November through March (and into April this year). However, last fall I bought a gallon of Fluid Film and a sprayer off eBay for a total of less than $70. It took less than 2 hours to entirely do 2 Tundras (my son has one as well). This was done last October.
    Yesterday,I pressure washed the underside of my truck to remove any salt accumulation from last winter and was surprised that even after soaping and power washing the frame there was still a decent residue of Fluid Film remaining. In no way am I diminishing the outcome of your method but FOR ME the time/effort and $$$ you spent is just not worth it. I can attest that Fluid Film is easy to apply, non toxic and will hold up well to harsh winter conditions.
     
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  20. Apr 11, 2019 at 4:04 AM
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    Luckydog

    Luckydog New Member

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    Thanks for the detailed description. Looks like a solid plan. Looking forward to a follow up in a couple years. I went the FF route after not being content with Ziebart. I hate rust. Cosmoline looks like a great strategy.
     
  21. Apr 11, 2019 at 6:07 AM
    #21
    Big Yota

    Big Yota [OP] New Member

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    Instead of paying $9.00 for a 12 oz can of FF you can buy the same size of WD 40 for 1/2 that much. Both will give you the same level of protection. Re-applying every year makes no sense in my book. Labor is way more expensive than product. Krown also needs re-application so whats the point of that. If its all about the cheap thin out some used engine oil and that will be your cheapest product. I'm past being penny wise and pound foolish at my age. But I guess if you are only holding onto it for a couple of years you can justify the upfront tiny saving. Saving $100 is less than a tank of gas if you've got the big tank.
     
  22. Apr 11, 2019 at 6:32 AM
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    Klappy803

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    Big Yota i'm in the same "boat" as you up here in Madison. My last truck, which i still have if anyone is interested, an 07 chevy classic, is caving in with rust but mechanically solid at 200k. The new to me truck 16 crew max needs some sort of rust prevention but i'm undecided as to what or how.
    Do you have any pictures of before, during and after?
    I appreciate the write up and info. Not only did it take a ton of time and patience to perform the work but also to write the review and field questions. We don't have to imagine that you run a tight ship.
     
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  23. Apr 12, 2019 at 9:43 PM
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    Rider0120

    Rider0120 New Member

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    Don’t listen to the guys that say you can drive right off the lot and not protect, Toyota has a the same problem worldwide about their frame rotting out. Fuildflim the truck. I did mine this past fall my underneath looks like new and my buddy who bought his ford the same year I did (2018) and his axel already has rust on it. We have to drive in all conditions because we work for the local power company and have to go in no matter the conditions. I plan on keeping my truck as long as I can so I will be doing a mantaince coat twice a year.
    A ounce of prevention is worth a point of cure.

    Watch this in how to apply
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QiIym5JiMOc&t=664s

    Undercoating with kill a truck. Watch this
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nXvl9nt57Kg
     
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  24. Apr 12, 2019 at 9:51 PM
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    Rider0120

    Rider0120 New Member

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    Here another video on protecting the frame and body. The stuff they’re useing is probably the same as WD-40 but it shows us that it’s a worldwide problem with Toyota and they’re coated frames. But with a little elbow grease our trucks can look good underneath for years to come.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MhGBKD8ccVE
     
  25. Apr 12, 2019 at 10:28 PM
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    Aerindel

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    Well, since WD-40 is worse than nothing that is a disappointing thought. Its well known among gun owners that WD-40 is the best way to rust the hell out of your gun.
     
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  26. Apr 15, 2019 at 5:20 AM
    #26
    Big Yota

    Big Yota [OP] New Member

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    Regarding pictures the ones I took were before shooting the product showing the extent of taping it out. That took more time than actually shooting the product. Those photos show the undercarriage of a brand new truck with about 50 miles on it. Condition was the same as a new truck on the dealer lot for reference. It had been garaged and not driven since purchase in late Nov of 18 so I could coat it. Midwest winter was brutal and we even got close to 6" yesterday. So I am glad to have got this done last weekend. Once the product was sprayed it would be difficult to notice it in a photo on anything which is black. It is not a goopy mess like rubberized undercoating. Items such as tie rod ends, end links at front CA's, metal ends of brake hoses (not taped over), some miscl silver clips all turned a goldish color since the Cosmoline is brown in color. A thin coat is the color of dark honey on silver parts. I'll be happy to answer any other questions. I plan to coat a couple of other vehicles I own this summer. Picked up a low mileage Arizona Explorer 5.0 that needs to be protected.
     
  27. Apr 15, 2019 at 6:36 AM
    #27
    rival1

    rival1 New Member

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    I actually use corrosion X, which is like fluid film. Ive kept my 99 landcruiser which i got from texas rust free for 10 years through new england winters. I also wash the vehicle religiously in the winter. Ive used several different corrosion type products and they essentially all work similar like the op said glorified wd40.

    Does the cosmoline leave a wax like coating like the old rusty jones undercoatings?
     
  28. Apr 15, 2019 at 7:31 AM
    #28
    Big Yota

    Big Yota [OP] New Member

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    Yes it is similar to the waxy looking coating like Rusty Jones.
     
  29. Apr 15, 2019 at 7:36 AM
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    B737

    B737 Throbbing Member

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    it is nearly im possible to remove without using serious solvents and a lot of time.
    [​IMG]
     
  30. Apr 15, 2019 at 9:03 AM
    #30
    Big Yota

    Big Yota [OP] New Member

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    Well that's a good thing. No reason you want to remove it on a daily driver. That's why it is superior to the snake oil stuff which people are duped into applying which washes off with water.
     
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