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Running Cables through firewall

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by kurtwp, May 6, 2017.

  1. May 6, 2017 at 1:57 PM
    #1
    kurtwp

    kurtwp [OP] What

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    I will be installing a ham radio shortly into my 2016 and want some suggestion on running the power cables from the battery though the firewall to connect to the radio. I took two pictures of large grommets I see on either side of the engine bay. Would both of this spots be feasible to run power cables through. The first picture is of the driver side and the other on the passenger side. Can I just poke a hole and push the cables through. Suggestions.

    Thanks

    Kurt

    20170506_114608.jpg 20170506_114651.jpg
     
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  2. May 6, 2017 at 2:01 PM
    #2
    bsktball55

    bsktball55 New Member

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    The driver's side grommet has a nipple on the bottom of it. You can cut that nipple off and run it through there. That's where I ran the power wire for my amp through.
     
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  3. May 6, 2017 at 2:15 PM
    #3
    Voyagermike

    Voyagermike New Member

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    I was able to run 10g wire along the hood release cable without cutting the grommet itself. You should be able to do the same
     
  4. May 6, 2017 at 2:19 PM
    #4
    kurtwp

    kurtwp [OP] What

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    The plan is to have two radios in the cab should I run one larger cable with the proper fuse to handle two radios then split that out into a fuse block in the cab or run two separate cables for each radio.

    Kurt
     
  5. May 6, 2017 at 3:46 PM
    #5
    040Tundra

    040Tundra Teddy 2013-2019

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    A little of this and a little of that.
    I'd run one wire through the grommet instead of 2 separate ones. I've already run 2 separate wires through the drivers side grommet fairly easy. This is in addition to the power wire for my amp. I would recommend you run it through the left side of the grommet as the right side has some structural metal right behind it which makes it harder to retrieve once inside the cab. Use some type of lubricant on the grommet before you punch a hole in it to make running the wire smoother.
     
  6. May 6, 2017 at 5:03 PM
    #6
    Randy Morton

    Randy Morton Life takes its toll, please have exact change.

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    I made an X cut in the grommet and ran 10ga zip cord through the cut. I then removed the left kick panel and the rocker panels and ran the wire through the channel. There's plenty of room. Where will you be mounting your rig? I put mine under the rear passenger seat and remote mounted the head. There's more on the installation here. https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...r-2nd-gen-tundra-today.68/page-45#post-212181
     
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  7. May 6, 2017 at 6:18 PM
    #7
    kurtwp

    kurtwp [OP] What

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    My initial thought is to mount the rig under front passenger and remote the head. Can some of you on this thread post pics of your wires going through the firewall and if not to difficult where they come out in the cab.

    Thanks

    Kurt
     
  8. May 6, 2017 at 6:42 PM
    #8
    Randy Morton

    Randy Morton Life takes its toll, please have exact change.

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    Here's where they go through the firewall. Use a thin bladed knife to make and X in the rubber grommet. The brown wire to the side of the grommet is for the alarm, the installation shop probably didn't want to cut the grommet. It'll be moved to the slit at a later date.

    Here's where they come into the cab. A little anticlimactic, the come through and almost immediately go behind the kick panel.

    Here are a couple of shots under the hood. Both the positive and negative lines are fused and there's some extra coiled up in case the fuse holders have to be replaced. A couple of zip tie holders are stuck to the inner fender to keep the wires in place.

     
  9. May 7, 2017 at 4:24 PM
    #9
    kurtwp

    kurtwp [OP] What

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  10. May 7, 2017 at 4:44 PM
    #10
    TNTundra08

    TNTundra08 New Member

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    X2

    This is exactly how I did mine for my light bars. Cut a small hole with a razor blade then stuck a coat hanger through, tapes wires and pulled back through.
     
  11. May 7, 2017 at 6:05 PM
    #11
    Randy Morton

    Randy Morton Life takes its toll, please have exact change.

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    I use Anderson Powerpoles on all of my DC operated equipment. That keeps things interchangeable and orderly. https://powerwerx.com/powerpole-power-distribution
     
  12. May 8, 2017 at 4:45 AM
    #12
    kurtwp

    kurtwp [OP] What

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    Do you have pictures as to how you used the powerwrx power distribution products.

    Kurt
     
  13. May 8, 2017 at 5:01 AM
    #13
    Randy Morton

    Randy Morton Life takes its toll, please have exact change.

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    It's the red block in the upper part of the image.
     
  14. May 10, 2017 at 6:09 AM
    #14
    14burrito

    14burrito IG @14burrito

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    You guys all made it sound so easy!

    What I tried doing first was cutting the tip off the nipple at The Grommet, ran a coat hanger through from the inside electric tape tomorrow Staggered 3 wire harness I'm tried to pull it back through- Ha I even used a little soapy water to try to make it slide better (pun intended). I'm guessing I need to cut that nipple further back closer to the actual firewall in order to be able to run through?
     
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  15. May 10, 2017 at 6:40 AM
    #15
    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon Hey! Get off my grass!

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    You might try cutting an "X" in the grommet for a little more give. Personally, I like using a wire installation tool. It is a hollow tool with a sharp point that your just push through the grommet and then push the wire(s) through the hollow part of the tool.
     
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  16. May 10, 2017 at 8:46 AM
    #16
    14burrito

    14burrito IG @14burrito

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    I didnt have anything hollow like that around to pop through, it did cross my mind - ill see what I clan figure out.
     
  17. May 10, 2017 at 9:39 AM
    #17
    kurtwp

    kurtwp [OP] What

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    Did you try from pulling from the engine side out.

    Kurt
     
  18. May 10, 2017 at 10:46 AM
    #18
    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon Hey! Get off my grass!

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  19. May 10, 2017 at 11:10 AM
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    bsktball55

    bsktball55 New Member

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    It was everything I could do to get my 4 gauge amp power cable through there. Once I got it started, it wasn't bad, but there's not much room there to get any kind of leverage. I went through the engine side and then pulled it into the cab
     
  20. May 12, 2017 at 6:05 AM
    #20
    kurtwp

    kurtwp [OP] What

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    Any recommendation for a battery isolator. Just need one just in case I leave the radios on. Want to be able to start my vehicle again.
    Thinking I will fuse the main power with 40 or 50 amps which should be more then sufficient to run the radios.

    Kurt
     
  21. Sep 22, 2018 at 4:22 PM
    #21
    Bratch

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    Good postings:

    I am installing light bars and need to run the wires for the switch into the cab. This looks like what I was thinking of doing.
    So, my light bar came with a wiring harness that includes a cheap switch. It will work, but when the light bar is off the switch has a red light that illuminates (turns green when the light bar is switched on). OK, not bad, but it would be better if the circuit was "switched" so the red (power off) light was not illuminated 24/7. Does anyone have any suggestions on where I can wire the harness so it is switched with the key? (it is designed to be wired directly to the battery: un switched). Thanks oh forum posters.
     
  22. Sep 22, 2018 at 4:44 PM
    #22
    Hondoman

    Hondoman New Member

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    Your light bar harness should include a relay. The relay closes the circuit when triggered by a 12v + source. Most people will tap into a wire that is only hot with the ignition on, but I have seen others use their high beam hot wire to trigger a relay for a light bar.

    Im curious where a good ignition on hot wire is too, as I am about to add a breaker, relay and fuse panel in my console.
     
  23. Sep 22, 2018 at 6:23 PM
    #23
    NewImprovedRon

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    Do you have a multimeter or access to one? Or, you can get an inexpensive test light and test your fuses under the dash to see which ones are ignition-active or continuous. If you use a test light, just clip the ground wire of the light to any good ground point and then touch the probe to the metal on the back of the fuse you are testing. If it lights up, that one is a continuously powered fuse. Just continue to test until you find one that is only active when the key is in the ignition and turned one click. You can get an OEM-style switch that fits a blank dash switch spot perfectly and you can wire it up to back light when you turn on your parking/headlight stalk switch like the rest of your dash switches. The switch will light up with more intensity when you turn it on. I am attaching a file how I wired my light bar up with all the connections as well as the 4-wire illuminated switch.
     

    Attached Files:

  24. Oct 2, 2019 at 4:00 PM
    #24
    SiberianTundra

    SiberianTundra I heard Unicorns get horrible MPG

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    Camper shell, LED lighting VLEDs, Front Camera, Pro Comp wheels. Trd HID LED headlights. ESP storage rear seats.
    very useful
    thank you~!
     
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