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Running board studs

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Tohopko, Feb 12, 2020.

  1. Feb 12, 2020 at 4:26 PM
    #1
    Tohopko

    Tohopko [OP] New Member

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    Working on the AMP boards. This is going to work, but I need to remove the studs in the stock running board mounts. Anyone ever pulled them out and replaced them with a longer stud, or bolt?

    For the curious--the AMP bracket will fit exactly over the factory holes on the DC, but the angle of the body sill is very slightly different. Ideal would be an aluminum wedge, approximately 3°, but I believe a combo of a washer under the top mount and a washer under the extension stop will have the boards stop at exactly horizontal. Once I get details worked out, I'll take pics and post.
     
  2. Feb 12, 2020 at 4:36 PM
    #2
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    I just bought some OEM running boards from a junk yard for Access Cabs. My truck never had any board s before and the scrape yard sent all the necessary brackets with the boards, but somethings were not quite matching up. I ended up fabbing some short (1-2”) aluminum hollow rods to act as a jack brace where it looked like a wedge should have been.

    All my bolt holes matched up, but it still needed these hollow jack brace wedges under the chassis to strenghten,square and level everything on the stepping platform. Strong as ox.
     
  3. Feb 12, 2020 at 4:41 PM
    #3
    Tohopko

    Tohopko [OP] New Member

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    The DC actually has 3 mount locations, each with what looks like an M10 stud in the top hole and an open bolt hole in the bottom. The AMP bracket uses those same two holes. I think the AMP bolts are long enough to shim, but if they aren't, getting longer bolts should not be a problem. Getting the studs out might be!
     
  4. Feb 12, 2020 at 4:53 PM
    #4
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Mine were all broken when I went to mount my Nfab bars. I drilled out what was left and tapped threads.

    In your case since you need a slight standoff I'd cut the studs off and weld a bolt in it's place.
     
  5. Feb 12, 2020 at 5:25 PM
    #5
    Tohopko

    Tohopko [OP] New Member

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    I'm really hoping I don't have to drag out the welder for this one! I'll try removing the studs first and see how far I get.
     
  6. Feb 13, 2020 at 4:21 PM
    #6
    Tohopko

    Tohopko [OP] New Member

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    You know, Fester, I do believe those studs are welded in. Looks like I will end up cutting 4 of them of and tapping them for the M8s. Slight shim under the bracket will push it out past a bump in the body seam, then another shim under the stop bumper will put the boards at just the right angle.
     
  7. Feb 14, 2020 at 5:59 AM
    #7
    CodyP

    CodyP New Member

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    I’d love to have those amp powered boards but I can’t bring myself to spend the money on them even if the fit perfectly without any modifications.
     
  8. Feb 14, 2020 at 10:11 AM
    #8
    Tohopko

    Tohopko [OP] New Member

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    I've had them on my Dodge 2500 for 9 years. Through mud, snow, ranch roads, rocks, stumps, and over 120k miles. The LED lights have died, but otherwise, they are still working great. I would not be without them on a lifted truck.

    At times, I'm hesitant to put the money into a 2004 with 128k on it. BUT--I looked at a bunch of different trucks before making my decision. I wanted at least a 6' bed and a crew cab. Your choices are very limited, and staying under $20k for something in good shape is nearly impossible. New is out of the question. No way am I paying in excess of 40k for a truck that may have serious engine issues over 100k miles (looking at you, Ecoboost).

    So, I paid $10,600 for a truck that I know, with proper mx should go over 400K easily. I'm doing a leather interior with seat heat for less than $2k. I may repaint, but will likely just fix panels, no more than $2500. The AMP boards I would likely do on a different truck as well, but we'll count that as well at $1400. New head unit with BT and Android Auto was $450. Wheels would be with any truck, as would the lift, and bumpers if I do them. I've picked up a VVTI intake, fuel rail and throttle body for $275, and I'll grab 12 hole injectors for $300. If I decide to do long tubes and a full BAM custom exhaust, that adds another $3000. That puts me at just a nudge over $20k. Still less than I was going to spend on something that didn't fit or drive as well.

    I don't have TPMS or electronic nannies to annoy me, and I don't have a truck that needs a dozen different data streams to tell me what might be wrong. My wife's 2017 Highlander scares me to death with all those sensors and computers that can kill the entire car in a heartbeat.
     
    Bulldog_tundra and CodyP like this.
  9. Feb 14, 2020 at 11:14 AM
    #9
    Bulldog_tundra

    Bulldog_tundra New Member

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    Sound logic, sir. I came from a 3rd gen Tundra and decided I was tired of payments and always playing the catch up game with new trucks. Found a solid, clean one owner 1st gen DC, put a couple thousand in it making it how I want it and doing the maintenance, now I’ve got a cash truck that should go for a long, long time and it fits every single need I have. Easily my favorite truck I’ve ever had (and I’ve had 12+) bc it’s MINE - paid for and reliable. All in at $10K for a 2WD at 145K miles with nothing needed.

     
  10. Feb 14, 2020 at 1:39 PM
    #10
    Tohopko

    Tohopko [OP] New Member

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    Sharp looking truck, Bulldog!
     

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