Rubbing/Scraping after new brakes

I have the same problem on the rear, found the cause is a difference in the machining between the oem rotors and the aftermarket versions. I tried both EBC and PowerStop - both have the problem. If you put a dial caliper on the depth of the ebrake drum, the oem is about 2.42" and the aftermarket is 2.65" . That close to a quarter inch diference makes the drum rub against the backing plate. In my case it is definitely not the dust shield. I don't see bending the backing plate as practical as it could change the orientation of the shoes. There was enough "rub" that it locked the rotor when the wheel was put on with the PowerStops. A quick and dirty check is to look at the surface of the drum - if the lip of the drum extends and is covering most of the vent area, you have the 2.65 version. If the drum only comes to the edge of the vents you have the 2.42 version. I haven't decided on a solution yet. I really like the PowerStop set and have had great results with them on the front, but not on the back. I'm going to check dealership to see if the oem version will fit.

 

+1

I had a similar issue with my parking brake backing plate on my 2011 after installing new EBC rotors. Several whacks with a flat-head punch and a hammer fixed it right up. I think it's a slight difference in dimensions in how deep the aftermarket rotors sit inside backing plate. Mine put a decent gouge in the backing plate before I figured it out though so get after it quick.

 

I recently purchased my used Tundra (79k miles) and the dealership replaced pads and turned rotors at 78k miles. When I start and put it in reverse to back out of my driveway each morning, there is a loud metal squeal from one of the driver's side wheels. Would the dust plate be the culprit. This is the only time I hear the noise.

 

Could be, but only in reverse is puzzling. Are you turning while in reverse? I bet the shop that did the work would take a look at it just to be sure their work didn’t cause the noise.

But, If you’re into doing the work yourself, and you want to check/adjust you parking brake while you’ve got the wheels off and tools out, I found this video really helpful.

The backing plate rub on my truck happened all the time at first and then only in hard turns after a the rotor rubbed a groove it it. I stumbled across this article that refers to a TSB for our trucks that said it was actually caused by a hub/wheel bearing slack issue.

Best of luck.

 

That is most likely the pads squeeling. It is almost assuring the mechanic that changed them did not use brake grease between the caliper and back of brake pad. My 2015 started doing that after several hundred miles. Drove me crazy, so i pulled both wheels off and caliper, added a little brake grease behind pads where they contact the caliper, reassembled, problem solved.

 

I just changed my brakes on my 2015 due to warped factory rotors and other reasons. This is my second brake change since new. Tundra has about 56000 miles. The first change i did because rotor warpage and steering wheel shake when applying brakes. i went with factory rotors and aftermarket pads...cheaper...mistake. I was towing my bass boat a few months ago and experienced for the first time brake fade. If you ever felt that, it scares the crap out of you. I was towing up and down large hills when this happened. Research it if you are not familiar. I would like to make a suggestion here, but its only based on my experience, not engineering. Flush your brake fluid at least every three years and the factory toyota rotors are notoriously famous for warping, but the brake pads are designed for the vehicle weights. You’ll be hard pressed to find aftermarket pads the are as effective as the Toyota ones. I am not saying they don’t exist, but you may experience other issues with them not expected. I chose to go with aftermarket drilled and slotted rotors, but utilize factory brake pads. It made a slightly noticeable difference in improved stopping accross all aspects of driving and towing. I now have 2500 miles on the new rotors and pads with no issues. Would recommend it from my perspective.

 

I'm kinda of having the same issue. 2011 Tundra 2wd crewmax verison. The previous owner installed larger 32.5in tires with 17in rims and a pro comp 2in leveling kit. Ever since he had installed the larger tires there has been a strange grinding sound only when i'm going 40 or higher and turning the wheel slightly to the right or to the left (right is worst). Doesn't make any noises going straight or turning at lower speeds. Has to be the dumb dust shield back plating right? I narrowed it down to the front and have removed the tires to attempt the bend and I think it helped out the left side but not the right. Do I need to remove the rotors like someone mentioned previously to fix this? It also activated my traction control when it happened to me today.